M3 - buy on ebay or pay more at a dealer?

[Mister E]

Buying from dealer does not mean the camera doesn't need CLA.

True but a reputable dealer like Tamarkin will tell you the actual condition of the camera. If they say it's good it will be.

 

[zauhar]

If you buy from a dealer you do get a warranty, at least that the camera will function correctly for some period of time after you receive it. I will attest that KEH stands by what they sell, and I assume the other well-known shops mentioned here do too. As others mentioned, you could buy direct from someone like Sherry Krauter and I think be assured of getting a good value (even if at a higher price).

Randy

 

[ssmc]

Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies! I will check out a couple of other dealers mentioned here I'd hadn't thought of.

Looks like I have some thinking (and auction watching) to do! (fingers crossed...)

Happy Shooting!
Scott 🙂

 

[n5jrn]

Based on my recent experiences with eBay prices, your question should be rephrased: buy from a dealer or pay more on eBay?

 

[Mister E]

Sherry will ALWAYS sell you a CLA.

 

[cosmonaut]

Not every Leica M needs a CLA. If it works, it works. I think people are CLA crazy these days. If it isn't working correctly, then ok....get the CLA. However, it seems people send perfectly fine cameras for CLAs just for the hell of it and because it is the RFF thing to do.

🙂

Amen,
I think you should just keep looking here at RFF and wait for someone to post one like you are looking for. I got one here and am thrilled with it.

 

[Mister E]

Based on my recent experiences with eBay prices, your question should be rephrased: buy from a dealer or pay more on eBay?

So true!

The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.

 

[hteasley]

I had excellent luck with the M3 I got on ebay. It was advertised as very clean, with a lot of good close-up pictures, and it was every bit as clean as claimed.

I bought it after Youxin gave me some advice. First, he said if I wanted an M3, go for serial numbers 1m+. Next, he said that clean on the outside almost always means better operating condition, or at least better condition parts on the inside. Seriously beat-up on the outside means more likely to need more extensive CLA.

Seems sort of obvious, but really, I took it as good advice to stay away from "very user looks, but works perfectly!" ads. As soon as I saw one with a lot of good photos, where the clean condition wasn't debatable, I went for that, and it worked out beautifully.

 

[rogerzilla]

The 1m+ advice has been around for ages and is based on the theory that Wetzlar got the hang of building them properly after several years. This is a bit dubious as not many people complain of their DS M3s being badly fitted together. As these cameras command higher prices, the ones with serials just below 1m are where I looked; the spec is identical (DOF indicators, preview lever, SS) but you don't pay more than for an early DS.

 

[jsrockit]

After 5 decades of use (or non-use) its not crazy to think you MIGHT need to lube or adjust the machine its just common sense.

I didn't say they never need CLAs... it's just that many RFF users seem to think every Leica needs one. It simply is not the case.

 

[Roger Hicks]

I didn't say they never need CLAs... it's just that many RFF users seem to think every Leica needs one. It simply is not the case.

True, but people often read what they think you ought to say, not what you actually say. Even if they do read what you actually say, they may try to make a broader point without always basing it on what you say.

Cheers,

R.

 

[ssmc]

While you're all here... what about the "L" seal?

While you're all here... what about the "L" seal?

It seems (maybe justifiably) that a camera with an intact seal is a big deal, showing that at least the top hasn't been removed (I dunno what can be fooled with without removing the seal, though, so if anyone would care to chime in with some info that'd be great)

Would a missing seal be a deal-breaker? I am guessing it shows that someone attempted to do "something" to the RF/VF at some time... but I noticed that no-one mentioned to specifically look for this earlier in the thread (I should have thought to ask when I posted my original question).

Have folks had bad experiences with missing-seal bodies i.e. some problem or other that proved to be unrepairable - or repairable, but at fantastic expense - due to incompetent futzing-around under the top plate?

Thanks again!
Scott

 

[BillBingham2]

Scott,

I purchased a rangefinder from EvilBay and had it sent directly to the CLA expert. Perhaps I did not need it but I figured I'd save time and money. I cleared it with both sides first. Might work well if you win an M3 over here and then have it sent to Sherry.

B2

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

My twopence?: if you have the opportunity to hold and try it, if the difference is about a hundred or so (depending on the model), I'd prefer a shop over OyBey. If there ever is a glaring problem that you didn't see when you first held it/got it, it's far easier to return it or exchange it at a shop.

 

[ssmc]

Scott,

I purchased a rangefinder from EvilBay and had it sent directly to the CLA expert. Perhaps I did not need it but I figured I'd save time and money. I cleared it with both sides first. Might work well if you win an M3 over here and then have it sent to Sherry.

B2

Bill, I had wondered if that was possible - thanks for the heads-up. An arrangement like that would probably save me close to $100 in shipping!

Scott

 

[ssmc]

My twopence?: if you have the opportunity to hold and try it, if the difference is about a hundred or so (depending on the model), I'd prefer a shop over OyBey. If there ever is a glaring problem that you didn't see when you first held it/got it, it's far easier to return it or exchange it at a shop.

Very true, and if I was still stateside I would definitely consider it. But my current situation makes that a non-starter, so I'm left with looking at 800x600 pix of variable quality, and keeping my fingers crossed - or paying the premium from a reputable shop (but still without actually handling the camera first 🙁)

Scott

 

[rxmd]

I didn't say they never need CLAs... it's just that many RFF users seem to think every Leica needs one. It simply is not the case.

Moreover, many of the same people who claim that Leicas are built so well that they will last forever will then send every new Leica off to mandatory CLAs after buying them and then every few years. If every Zorki got that kind of service, they'd last forever, too.

 

[David Hughes]

The trouble is that lubricants creep over the years and then get sticky and attract dust or grit. And this old git knows that parts wear out over time and M2's and 3's have had plenty of that.

As I see it, we buy one for long term use and so getting an overhaul/service done is bound to be needed sooner or later. In my opinion doing it sooner means less chance of spoiling something later.

Regards, David

 

[mob81]

How much would a recently CLA'd Leica M3 would cost? in Excellent condition..Keh Listing in EX. condition are very high!!!!

Just wanted to know as I'm looking for one

 

[huntjump]

I picked up a CLA'd m3 a few weeks back for $750 shipped. The CLA was 2 years old though, but had receipt and is smooth. Honestly, ebay is REALLY hit or miss. I can't chime in on why some go for $700, some go for $2000. I guess the ones that are "mint" obviously get more money, and the ones with paperwork and box certainly avg much higher. But you will see some that just look like they are in EX condition but not mint, and no box or anything and the bidding wars drive it to prices I dont think are warranted.