M3 Repaint and Overhaul - advice please!

[JianL]

I've decided to have my DS M3 repainted black and restored to factory spec. And here lies my problem.

I was originally going to get CRR to do everything because Peter's reputation in this area is well known. Also, he is able to restore the vulcanite to the original factory spec. However, after comparing Peter's and Shintaro's paint finish I've decided I prefer Shintaro's.

Shintaro provides three plans:

1. a straight forward paint job for mint condition cameras BUT the lugs and back door are NOT painted

2. Paint job with dent removal included. Again, this does NOT include painting of the lugs or back door, and

3. The most expensive, a full cosmetic restoration which includes painting of lugs and back door and replacement of the vulcanite with a plastic leather.

The back door on my M is chipped so my only option for an 'as new' restoration is to go with plan 3, however, I'm not too keen on the plastic leather and want the original vulcanite. I also want a CLA. As far as I know, Shintaro doesn't do CLAs or repairs but I'd probably want Peter to do the mechanical work anyway.

My question is, should I get the repaint done by Shintaro first and then ask Peter to restore the vulcanite and do the mechanical work afterwards or the other way around?

I'm worried that if I get the paint done first, it will get scratched or damaged when the vulcanite is replaced and/or the mechanical work is done (the body needs to be heated to a high temp in order to lay the new vulcanite).

Conversely, if I get the mechanical work dome first, I am worried that the recently tuned settings will be thrown out when the camera is stripped for painting!

Any advice?

Thanks

 

[JMQ]

Hi, I had an M3 DS CLAed and repainted 7 years ago. I had DAG perform the CLA first , then sent the camera to Shintaro for painting. Shintaro's work is first rate, but he works at his own pace -- be prepared for a long wait (I think mine took 4-5 months).

 

[kehng]

I'd recommend Peter extremely highly, he may do you a better deal if you do it all at once. I've got one of his for sale in the Classifieds right now if you want to see the end result. Operationally it is beautiful! Wish I didn't have to sell...

 

[JianL]

Hi, I had an M3 DS CLAed and repainted 7 years ago. I had DAG perform the CLA first , then sent the camera to Shintaro for painting. Shintaro's work is first rate, but he works at his own pace -- be prepared for a long wait (I think mine took 4-5 months).

Hi and thanks

I'm going to agree dates with him before I drop the camera off. I have contacts I'm Japan so ir should be ok. I think everyone knows that he is not one to rush things!

 

[JianL]

I'd recommend Peter extremely highly, he may do you a better deal if you do it all at once. I've got one of his for sale in the Classifieds right now if you want to see the end result. Operationally it is beautiful! Wish I didn't have to sell...

It was after viewing yours that I came to my decision! Although I have spoken to Peter previously and was aware that the finish was not as glossy. Peter said he could do a glossier finish but he may have said something about it affecting durability. I forget.

I've already received a quote and there is a discount if everything is done at the same time. I would really like to have everything done at once and done by one person but Ir doesn't look possible at the movement.

So the question remains, how should I go about this?

Thanks for your reply.

 

[greyelm]

I would go for CRR on the basis that you will get everything done in one hit and avoid the scenario where one side blames the other side for perceived faults.

 

[print44]

I agree that getting everything done at once sounds like a better plan. And Peter's work on the mechanics is very good. I think if he could supply a sample of the glossier finish he might have a lot of takers - myself included. The standard of finish and workmanship of the BP job looks to be excellent - but it does look a little too matt to me. Maybe that's the way the pics are lit, though - hence the need for glossy samples.

 

[Dralowid]

Peter's work is really excellent and having the whole thing done in the same place makes sense, no arguments later. The results are great both cosmetically and mechanically.

However there is no doubt that his glossier finish is less durable as he says. The IIIc he did for me in high gloss (to match a pre-war finish) shows signs of brassing at the edges after a couple of years use. Rather attractive but it can't be described as very durable.

Michael

 

[JianL]

I agree that getting everything done at once sounds like a better plan. And Peter's work on the mechanics is very good. I think if he could supply a sample of the glossier finish he might have a lot of takers - myself included. The standard of finish and workmanship of the BP job looks to be excellent - but it does look a little too matt to me. Maybe that's the way the pics are lit, though - hence the need for glossy samples.

I would go for CRR on the basis that you will get everything done in one hit and avoid the scenario where one side blames the other side for perceived faults.

I agree too but as ive said, I prefer the glossier finish and current searches on the net and on this forum indicate that Shintaro is the man. Everyone that has a Shintaro repaint raves about the quality. Everyone raves about the CRR paint job as well but the same people also admit that the finish is matt. I'll try and speak to Peter again but given what I've seen, I think I'm going with Shintaro.

 

[JianL]

Peter's work is really excellent and having the whole thing done in the same place makes sense, no arguments later. The results are great both cosmetically and mechanically.

However there is no doubt that his glossier finish is less durable as he says. The IIIc he did for me in high gloss (to match a pre-war finish) shows signs of brassing at the edges after a couple of years use. Rather attractive but it can't be described as very durable.

Michael

Thanks for your reply.

That's the issue I was worrying about.

I like brassing but I'd rather have it in mint black. The Shintaro black paint seems to be very durable to the extent that those who like brassing rub it down with sandpaper to speed up the wear!

 

[John Lawrence]

In case you're not aware, Malcolm Taylor also does this type of work. There's some information on the quality of his repaints here:

http://nemeng.com/leica/004b.shtml

John

 

[secksthoi]

I can also see in my future of getting a crappy beater Leica M and getting it fully repainted with the $700 tier. In that case I would probably go with the Shintaro route, then a CLA. Would seem pointless to CLA first, since the repainter is going to throw the camera all out of wack anyways.

 

[Fraser]

I think repainting depends on what you are going to do with the camera, spending all that money on getting it repainted you are going to be worried about scratching it up. I bought my M2 about 3 years ago with the object of repainting it myself its now very brassy but doesn't worry me as I can always repaint it.
Total cost for me was £350 for the camera (from a shop) and £20 for the paint etc, not a lot of money for a black paint M2.
What makes you think the camera needs a CLA i've always been of the opinion (other will disagree) that unless an old camera stops working it should not be taken apart.
Good luck with whatever you decide and enjoy!

 

[JianL]

In case you're not aware, Malcolm Taylor also does this type of work. There's some information on the quality of his repaints here:

http://nemeng.com/leica/004b.shtml

John

Thanks. I'll buzz him next week.

 

[JianL]

I can also see in my future of getting a crappy beater Leica M and getting it fully repainted with the $700 tier. In that case I would probably go with the Shintaro route, then a CLA. Would seem pointless to CLA first, since the repainter is going to throw the camera all out of wack anyways.

That really is the crux of my question. When the camera is stripped to what extent are the internal adjustable mechanisms affected? If the mechanics merely lift out then it shouldn't matter in which order the painting and CLA is done. I'm sure it isn't as simple as that, hence my question.

Thanks

 

[JianL]

I think repainting depends on what you are going to do with the camera, spending all that money on getting it repainted you are going to be worried about scratching it up. I bought my M2 about 3 years ago with the object of repainting it myself its now very brassy but doesn't worry me as I can always repaint it.
Total cost for me was £350 for the camera (from a shop) and £20 for the paint etc, not a lot of money for a black paint M2.
What makes you think the camera needs a CLA i've always been of the opinion (other will disagree) that unless an old camera stops working it should not be taken apart.
Good luck with whatever you decide and enjoy!

I intend to use the camera once it is repainted. Sure, that might sound nuts to some people but I think those that pay £3k for a brand new MP to shoot, and with the intention of brassing it, are nuts as well. My M3 will cost a third of that figure afterrnthe repaint and CLA.

I could actually do the repaint myself and probably the CLA but I don't have the tools or the inclination to do so. I don't intend to sell the camera but should circumstances change i reckon I'll get the bulk of the money back because the work was done by the pros.

The camera has a bit of dirt in the viewfinder and the advance lever doesn't feel as smooth as it could. Shutter speed seems fine though. On top of that, I want the machine returned to factory spec so it's worth paying the (discounted) price of having a CLA when I get the vulcanite done at CRR.