M3 users - how do you work without TTL metering?

[Vics]

I suppose that using B/W film, with lots of latitude, guestimating using Sunny-16 is OK. How about shooting slide film? I would imagine more precise readings would be required.

I usually shoot black & white by sunny 16, backed up by occaisionally checking with incident meter. The other day I shot two rolls of Velvia 100 at the end of the first stage of the Amgen Tour Of California on an overcast day (so very even lighting, VERY saturated colors) and I was amazed to see that my method works quite well for color slide film, too. M3 'Cron DR. Wish I could post some samples, but I don't have a slide scanner.
Vic

 

[maddoc]

Gossen Digisix with my Leicas (M3 and M4-P) and a Sekonic 508 with my Hasselblad. A few meter-readings combined with some guessing / experience works best for me. I find it somehow arkward looking through the VF of a metered camera body (M6, MP) and peek into different directions to get the EVs for different zones ....

 

[myoptic3]

I learned photography using a camera w/ a built in meter( Canon AE-1), and have always used cameras w/ meters. I noticed that when I went to Nikon AF cameras they metered much better than the Canon. Recently I wanted to try a Leica so I bought an M3. Really fantastic camera! But I just couldn't get the hang of the hand held meteriing. Fortunately, as someone else pointed out, B&W film has an awful lot of exposure latitude.

Actually, it wasn't that I was mis metering. The problem was I was used to not only in camera metering, but AF as well. It was taking me so long to get a shot metered and focused that it wasn't fun for me. I ended up selling the M3 and I regret it every day, but it just didn't suit my style of shooting. So I have an M5 coming from KEH and an R3a from a RFF member and will see how that works. I really prefer the speed of an AF SLR, but after using the RF cameras they seem like huge, heavy boxes in comparison.

 

[Joe]

When I first got my leica the meter battery was dead. I bought some color negative film and set the exposure from the recommendations on the box. The whole roll came out perfectly exposed.

 

[drewbarb]

This is one of those topics that seems to come up about every two weeks. There are loads of threads on the topic, and lots of other info on the net out there if you search for it.

I use M3's as my primary 35mm cameras, with hand-held incident meters, and sometimes spot meters. I mostly shoot black and white, where as others have noted the lattitude really works for you. Typically, I will meter highlights and shadows in the light I'm working in, then put the meter away and shoot, making adjustments along the way. I cut my teeth shooting with old Nikon gear, and got used to in camera meters, so when I got my M3, I wanted to try a metered Leica. So I got an M6, and soon discovered that the meter diodes were disctracting me ad slowing me down, so I'd miss shots. I soon sold it and got another M3. Now, the only time I use an in-camera meter (even with the Nikons!) is shooting slide film or using aperture priority.

 

[merlin]

How do you meter when your camera has no built-in meter?
Guess, use a clip-on meter, use a separate meter?
Does not having TTL metering affect your shooting style?
I'm talking about ambient metering (not flash).

I've always 'Guessed'. The more I thought-out exposures, the better I got. I occasionally check my judgements with someone else's meter or cart the PentaxV for a few days to be sure I haven't strayed – and a homemade, Sunny16-ish, business-sized card is always in the wallet for when my brain freezes. Not a perfect method but it works for me, is an important part of the challenge.

 

[Haigh]

Question re digital images for net

Question re digital images for net

I would appreciate RF members' comments on this.

I am thinking of getting a Sigma Dp-1, my first digital camera and posting images on the net from it rather than as I have been doing, from my film camera ( an M4) since it is convenient and I don't think my scans are of the quality to distinguish between my Leica and VC lenses and the images from a digital camera.

I'l continue to use the film camera but only for work someone asks me to do or for some occasion when I can see that a traditional print is required.

Any comments would be welcome.


Gary Haigh

Australia

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22733837@N06/

 

[projectbluebird]

I use the gossen digisix, when I need a meter. But Sunny-16 works pretty well too, during the day. You just have to learn what a stop (or more) of light looks like.(not as hard as you'd think)

I used to have an MR meter on my M3, and it was great. For the M3. Not so much for any other camera. Unfortunately, it went missing on a vacation two years ago and was replaced by the digisix. More versatile, but not nearly as cool looking.

 

[cosmonot]

I have a a pretty accurate sekonic meter, and my dad has an old Luna Six that I borrow every so often, but lately I've just been guessing. It seems to work fairly well, so long as I err on the side of overexposure.

 

[Vincenzo Maielli]

I own and use, for my M2, a Gossen Starlite, a Sekonic L398 M De Luxe and a Sekonic L-208. As alternative, the Sunny 16 rule is perfect also.
Ciao.
Vincenzo

 

[HuubL]

I own two MR meters and they're on the M2/M3/M4 when they sit in their display cabinet being pretty. I also have a Weston Master V. The moment I take one on a shooting trip, I take the meter of and use sunny 16 only.

 

[KM-25]

Digisix...

 

[takeda72]

I have a Leicameter MR but I cant get use to it. I read and read the manual but is not that simple for me to use.

Any tips?

Anyway... I am looking for a Digisix just in case.

 

[Nh3]

Always carry a digital P&S or a DSLR so that you can use their meter for setting the exposure... why would you spend $200 on a light meter when any decent P&S with manual control will give you excellent reading.

 

[Florian1234]

Since I'm a beginner, I use a Gossen Bisix 2 hand-held meter most of the time before beginning to take photos.
I meter my hand and then open up one stop or put the exposure time one stop slower.


(Btw., pro-photog. Meyerowitz is doing it wrongly - or maybe he does it right, but doesn't tell how to - in his fancy internet video about street photography.🙄😀 "I allways read my hand, so I know the exposure." - or did I miss something?)

 

[colyn]

why would you spend $200 on a light meter when any decent P&S with manual control will give you excellent reading.

I bought a working and accurate handheld meter today in the box for $2.. A lot cheaper than a P&S camera..😀 😀 😀

 

[Nh3]

Since I'm a beginner, I use a Gossen Bisix 2 hand-held meter most of the time before beginning to take photos.
I meter my hand and then open up one stop or put the exposure time one stop slower.


(Btw., pro-photog. Meyerowitz is doing it wrongly - or maybe he does it right, but doesn't tell how to - in his fancy internet video about street photography.🙄😀 "I allways read my hand, so I know the exposure." - or did I miss something?)

His method works for street photography because the same light that falls on his hand falls on people's faces as well.