M4-P RF Vertical Alignment?

maggieo

maggieo

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Hey gang, I was wondering if adjusting the vertical alignment of the rangefinder on my M4-P was a DIY job or not? It's off by a hair or so and if it's a reasonably easy fix, I figured I'd do it myself.

It's not off by a lot, but enough to make me question my focus and slow me down by enough to be a wee bit of a bother in low light or with fast moving subjects.

Thanks!
 
I can't help but wonder what the thinking was behind the change from a screwdriver adjustment to a crazy expensive tool to make the adjustment.
 
maggieo said:
I can't help but wonder what the thinking was behind the change from a screwdriver adjustment to a crazy expensive tool to make the adjustment.
Click to expand...

I would think it was to keep owners from tinkering with the adjustment themselves and create a little work flow for Leica. Check on the web, I think I read somewhere that the change making the fancy tool necessary was late production. If this is correct and you have an early production M4-P you may be able to use just a screw driver. YMMV.

Bob
 
From what I've read, like on the auction listing, the change came late in the production of the original M4 and early in the M4-2's run. So, it seems all M4-Ps will need the tool.
 
I would be very cautious till I knew exactly what I was dealing with. Lots of luck if you try it.

Bob
 
Nikon Bob said:
I would be very cautious till I knew exactly what I was dealing with. Lots of luck if you try it.

Bob
Click to expand...

I concur. Caution is definitely called for in this case. I'll try moving the outer screw slightly and check for any movement in the rangefinder and go from there.
 
So, I removed what turned out to be a nearly-vestigial screw on the front of the M4-P, and sure enough, it needs the special tool to make adjustments.
 
Well, at least now you know for sure. Too bad it was not the other way.

Bob

Edit

You had me curious so I checked my M4-P out. It has the brass top plate with recessed windows so I think it is an early production model. As luck would have it mine has a slotted screw head for the vertical adjustment of the RF. Just luck of the draw I suppose. Does your M4-P have a zinc top plate and flush windows?

Bob
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nikon Bob said:
Well, at least now you know for sure. Too bad it was not the other way.

Bob

Edit

You had me curious so I checked my M4-P out. It has the brass top plate with recessed windows so I think it is an early production model. As luck would have it mine has a slotted screw head for the vertical adjustment of the RF. Just luck of the draw I suppose. Does your M4-P have a zinc top plate and flush windows?

Bob
Click to expand...

It's got the recessed windows and a brass top. At least they look recessed to me. Here it is:



Its s/n is in the 1587xxx range.

Oh, when you turn the adjustment screw, which direction correlates to which RF direction? Does CW = Up, for instance?
 
Well, they do look the same and mine is in the s/n range of 1533xxx. I think when I checked the s/n out it was supposed to be for an M4-2. As to direction I have no clue, sorry. When you get your tool trial and error should tell you pretty quickly which way is what.

Bob
 
In theory, the RF alignment mechanism changed in the middle of the M4-2 run, Bob, and all M4-Ps have the newer mechanism requiring a special tool. I know mine does (recessed windows as well).
 
ferider said:
In theory, the RF alignment mechanism changed in the middle of the M4-2 run, Bob, and all M4-Ps have the newer mechanism requiring a special tool. I know mine does (recessed windows as well).
Click to expand...

Looks like you are right, I just checked my M4 and it is different than the M4-P.

Bob
 
You can make the special tool by yourself, if you are well with your fingers and handy work.

There are some photos floating the net of a topless M, showing the mechanism and the special tool for a better understanding, what to do, and when better decide, to let a pro do the job.

I adjusted the vertical alignment on my M8.2 with a properly made tool, as it has been off by a mile, when I bought it new. It is perfect now.

Basically, you can do the special tool with a jewelers screwdriver, a diamond file, some fine sandpaper and if needed some electrical tape.

You have to file one corner out of the screw driver blade (in a very special measurement, that fits your camera), de burr any sharp edges with the sandpaper and use the electrical tape, to prevent your camera from unprofessional track marks, doing the operation (that's why Leica wants to prevent from unauthorized fiddling and rightly so, as many people think, a butter knife will do ;-) ).

You fit the special tool/ special screw driver with the tip into a fitting in the set mechanism and move a fork shaped metal sheet up or down by turning the special tool around the tip, engaging the "fork" with the out of center cam.

Good luck and leave your fingers out of there, if you are not sure!
 
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