M42 body/adapter recommendations

[Axel]

With my Fujica ST705, it takes two fingers to get the meter to work with non-Fujica lenses. With one finger, I depress the shutter release half-way, and with the second, I depress the preview button on the front. Then, in almost every case, the meter responds just like the Spotmatic.

Jim N.

... and additionally you can fix the preview button on the front by pressing and turning it (think it was to the right side). This way you have metering with all M42-lenses by simply pressing the shutter release without further action.

Regards, Axel

 

[shadowfox]

That could not be less true! All M42 lenses will work on it

Speaking on the Spotmatics, this is not true

Try to use a CZJ Biotar (yes, the "authentic" Zeiss glass whose design was copied by the aforementioned Helios-44) on a Spotmatic. Good luck!

It works just fine on my Chinon CM-3, btw.

 

[fidget]

Thanks Jim. With the old batteries fitted (checked with meter at around 1.4v each, depression of the preview button and part shutter button press makes the needle jerk downwards for any settings or brightness of scene.
As I write this, the first couple of films are drying in the bathroom. I can see no light leaks, so this is pleasing, but most frames have a more exposed narrow strip at the right hand side of the neg. As others have said, I should expect to have to CLA a camera of this age.........

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

Speaking on the Spotmatics, this is not true

Try to use a CZJ Biotar (yes, the "authentic" Zeiss glass whose design was copied by the aforementioned Helios-44) on a Spotmatic. Good luck!

I didn't know that!

I stand by the rest of what I said, though...M42 lenses are plentiful.

 

[OldNick]

Thanks Jim. With the old batteries fitted (checked with meter at around 1.4v each, depression of the preview button and part shutter button press makes the needle jerk downwards for any settings or brightness of scene.
As I write this, the first couple of films are drying in the bathroom. I can see no light leaks, so this is pleasing, but most frames have a more exposed narrow strip at the right hand side of the neg. As others have said, I should expect to have to CLA a camera of this age.........

The downward reaction is why I said I have success MOST of the time. I did put new batteries in my 705, so that may make a difference.

I'm not sure how you view the negative, so am uncertain whether this pertains or not. I found that the hinge-end vertical seal was gone on my 705. Though I did not notice any leakage, the latch-end of the back would press in and out, even though locked. I used some adhesive-backed black felt from Wal-Mart to replace the missing light seal.

Jim N.

 

[OldNick]

... and additionally you can fix the preview button on the front by pressing and turning it (think it was to the right side). This way you have metering with all M42-lenses by simply pressing the shutter release without further action.

Regards, Axel

Thanks, Axel. I just tried that, and, as I suspected, it works but it locks the aperture at the "set" value, and prevents full-aperture focusing. It should work fine when the lens is used near wide open where there is enough light and a shallow DOF to make focusing easier.

Jim N.

 

[fidget]

GAS on the cheap!
I'm awaiting a Cosina CSR, which I hope is an M42 fit camera.

While remembering the Chinon, is this a re-badged camera or was there a manufacturer called Chinon?
I seem to remember that Dixons ran this line. I'm wondering if they were made by Cosina?

 

[fidget]

Still playing with the Fujica ST705. As I mentioned the shutter has a problem where the second curtain must slow before the end of it's travel or it bounces back and gives a very overexposed strip at the left hand side of the film gate.

When I did the monitor check on the open body, I could clearly see the extra exposure happening.

This camera was very cheap, so i took the base plate off...and was confronted by some beautifully produced mechanics. I cocked and tripped it a few times, then decided it was more complex than i wanted to get into and put the plate back on after giving it a general blast with the air duster. Nothing fell out or moved, it all looked in great condition, and now, I can't see the strip. Could it be a fix? So easily? Never worked like this on my Kievs!

 

[Doug]

Chinon was a manufacturer, not sure of the current status, though it was acquired by Kodak some years back. They made some nice SLRs.

 

[fidget]

The postman brought a Cosina CSR for me, nice chap.
This looks very well featured and has a shutter sound similar to the very nice ST705.
I rushed the seal replacement, checked the metering (OK) and shot off a 24 roll in the local park. Took the ST705 too to verify the overexposed band is no longer there. {Edit: the band is still on most negs, I thought that was too easy! }
GAS is a terrible affliction, eased by bargain buys.


OK, so plenty of bodies, now the hunt for nice glass. A nice 50 and a 35 would complete the set. Maybe the Chinon 55/1.7 or the Fujinon 55/2.2 will be good.


So two rolls are in the dev tanks and awaiting another first for me, the Rodinal experience.

I'll try 50:1 to start, have a roll of D100 and an FP4+.

EDIT: Re-reading this, it sounds like a blog. Sorry to go on.
Thanks for your suggestions, I do believe that I have more than one suitable M42 body.


Busy evening....