M6 Kodachrome CV40/CV15

D

djonesii

Well-known
Local time
12:55 PM
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
384
View My Gallery
Dear all;

Just got my first Kodachrome back from Dwayne's some with the 15, some with the 40, should be obvious .....

Full set here:
http://www.jonesii.net/2008%2012%2007%2014%20Kodachrome/index.html

01_009.jpg


01_021.jpg


01_034.jpg


I'm still getting my head around how to meter and use the M6. The 15 is proving much more problematic. I shot a whole roll of print film that came out very grainy, all with the 15, not sure if it was due metering or what, but that was the only place I had problems.

The Contax G1 is generating more keepers for the moment, I'm sure that its user error.

Dave
 
I like the third one, the photo of the ship.

Using a very wide (21mm or 15mm) with a M6 (or M7 or MP) gives easily under-exposed photos shooting photos with a lot of sky. Pointing the camera down for measuring the exposure helps, though.
 
+1 to maddoc's answer. The large amount of sky makes the meter think the scene is a lot brighter than it really is. Meter off the ground with the ultra-wides.
 
I have noticed i get very strong reaction to vignetting of the lens if i use Kodachrome.
Even the 35mm on the hexar af freaks out many times.
Gets very similar to your 15mm shot: the exposure fades quickly towards the edges, especially as said above if there is a big piece of sky in it.
High contrast scenes don't help it, of course.

And when the film is too dark, the scanner freaks out as well.
 

Attachments

  • HawaiiHalC019Pk.jpg
    HawaiiHalC019Pk.jpg
    15.8 KB · Views: 0
Just a quick question, i was thinking of picking up a Leica Body to use with my CV 40 as well. Which framelines did u use with the 40? Or did u modify the 40 to bring up the 35mm framelines on the m6?

Thanks!
 
The colors are uniquely Kodachrome...so was anyone expecting anything else?

I like those three you posted.😀

In the full set, you can run auto levels to clear up some of the haze and even increase contrast if you like. Just a thought with the M6...why don't you just use the Sunny 16 and see what you get?

BTW, the vignetting is cool...
 
Last edited:
Those look off color, especially the first one. Is this out of date film or did it go in checked baggage?

Also, I never use the in camera meter with the 15 because of the reasons stated above. In fact, I either use Sunny F-16 at 80, like 1/250th at F/8 and a 1/3rd or most of the time, a hand held meter.

I never have any problems with my Kodachrome that way...
 
KM-25 said:
did it go in checked baggage?
Click to expand...

x ray damage in my experience is not fogging but vertical lines down the emulsion of the film like static. people at labs Ive spoken with over the years seem to share the same opinion. Not sure where the fogging reaction got its roots...
 
lovely pictures, but the colours are way off, the blue cast is very strong especially in the first.

Kodachrome can be a wonderful film but is a nightmare to scan, I've got loads of slides that look great to the naked eye but become dull or have colour casts when scanned in.
 
Dear all;

I have been remiss in checking this thread ....

The film was expired stock bought off flea bay, seller promised cold stored. Stored in my wife's wine fridge for about 3 months, processed and scanned at Dwayne's ... Then I did some tweaks in light room.

I have reprocessed the set ... The ones of the boat were clearly processed wrong IMHO. I way over saturated them. However, that was on a relatively few photos, I went back, and rather than over saturate, I did work with the curves.

On the other hand, I expected better of the scans from Dwayne's, almost all of them required tweaks of some kind. It could have been the film itself, or the very remote possibility that the film was in checked baggage both unexposed and exposed.

As to the 15, I am very new to the lens, and in all honesty, really got it to use on the G1, not really the M6, as a rule, I don't like to shoot wide .... I was using the M6 to meter, but I did have the D300 there as well, and the settings were close ..... but the FOV was different. I will keep in mind the sunny 16 and the tips about sky ratio + pointing down, thanks for all those.

I will get a link up to the re-post processed set when I load them.

Dave
 
Last edited:
forgot to answer one question ....

forgot to answer one question ....

Re-reading, I forgot to answer one ... The CV40 is not filed, I'm no where near an expert, but I think it brings up the 50mm frame lines, and am using the default. I have not taped the frame-line lever, but from memory, the 35mm lines do show then the lever is tripped.

I will comment that I am preferring the look of the 40mm CV to that of my 50mm collapsible summicron.

Dave
Dave
 
djonesii said:
Dear all;

I have been remiss in checking this thread ....

The film was expired stock bought off flea bay, seller promised cold stored. Stored in my wife's wine fridge for about 3 months, processed and scanned at Dwayne's ... Then I did some tweaks in light room.

I have reprocessed the set ... The ones of the boat were clearly processed wrong IMHO. I way over saturated them. However, that was on a relatively few photos, I went back, and rather than over saturate, I did work with the curves.

On the other hand, I expected better of the scans from Dwayne's, almost all of them required tweaks of some kind. It could have been the film itself, or the very remote possibility that the film was in checked baggage both unexposed and exposed.

As to the 15, I am very new to the lens, and in all honesty, really got it to use on the G1, not really the M6, as a rule, I don't like to shoot wide .... I was using the M6 to meter, but I did have the D300 there as well, and the settings were close ..... but the FOV was different. I will keep in mind the sunny 16 and the tips about sky ratio + pointing down, thanks for all those.

I will get a link up to the re-post processed set when I load them.

Dave
Click to expand...

Yes, Dwayne's scanning produces a lot of unacceptable results. I got some slides returned and immediately looked at the CD. I thought that many were underexposed and I was cursing the seemingly fickle nature of slide film. Only several days later did I look at the actual slides and realize they were fine.

I bought an Epson V500 scanner which, for $175, does a fine job scanning KR.

Instead of rescanning you also could probably just post process using Adobe Photoshop Elements. The option, under Guided, "Remove color cast" seems to do the trick.
 
See attached quick Elements post-processing.
 

Attachments

  • 01_034.jpg
    01_034.jpg
    51.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 01_021.jpg
    01_021.jpg
    38.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 01_009.jpg
    01_009.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 0
Chris;

I have elements 5 and lightroom, I have not been back to the scanner yet, but as the boat has a special meaning for one of my friends, I think that I may end up getting it drum scanned, that way, I can have a point of reference.

Based on your results, I think I'll give a few of the slides a full rescan on my Epson and process in Elements.

Thanks for all the work and comments!

Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom