M6 with CV Lenses?

pcfranchina

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I am thinking of upgrading to am M6 from my Bessa R3a. My current lenses are a CV 40mm 1.4, CV 75mmand a FSU I61. Does anyone have any experience them on a M6? I know there are no 40mm frame lines. What comes up 35 or 50? I really don't want to use an external finder and I can't afford a new lens now.....
Any opinions would really be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I have both Nokton and Heliar and use them on the M6 (see my
avatar). A great combo. By default the Nokton will bring up the
50mm lines, but you can easily modify it to bring up the 35 lines,
which I did. This is fairly accurate with the M6 if you shoot
negative film, and from 3m onwards.

Best,

Roland.
 
What I've found when using the 40mm with the M6 is that it depended on my way of framing things. I tend to frame a little loosely with a 35mm focal length so this particular frameline works well for me when using the 40 Nok.
I suggest you try shooting with both framelines as I did to see which works better for you. As Roland mentioned - the 40mm defaults to the 50 framelines. Just use gaffer's tape to hold the preview lever on the M to bring up the 35 lines then you're set.
 
pcfranchina said:
Is it that far off from the 50mm frame lines? I have also thought of trading for a nice 50mm lens.

In theory 42 (the length of the Nokton) is just in the middle between
35 and 50.

In practice, M6 framelines are more conservative. They have to work
at both close up and infinity, they have to accomodate for slide film,
and compared to M[234] the M6 accomodates 28mm lines which caused
the other frames to shrink just a little. So at infinity, the M6 50mm
framelines are more like 65mm, the 35mm lines more like 45 and so on.

Even though the labels on the framelines might make you feel more
comfortable with a given focal lens, you have to learn how they
map to reality, for any body/lens combo. After a while you get
used to leaving a little space or cropping more strongly, depending
on which lens/line combo you pick. Some people use 75mm lines for
85mm, I use 90mm lines for 105mm, and so on.

You get used to 40<->35 mapping quite quickly. Try with gaffer tape
first if you are uncomfortable changing the mount.

If you have an SLR with 35mm lens, compare its image with the M6
framelines and you will see.

Under the bottom line, I recommend to forget about the framelines
when you pick a lens, only make sure you are comfortable with the
FOV. Once you pick a lens, you will learn how to use it with any
RF frameline matching it approximately.

Best,

Roland.
 
Last edited:
Good information, thanks; I found that an elastic band works cleaner than gaffers tape. Just thread one end through the strap lug (or strap ring) on the left side of the camera.
 
The process to modify the 40 to give you 35 frame lines is easy. On the M's there is a small arm on the right hand side of the mount (inside the camera). The "claws" on the M-bayonet activates this arm and engages the correct frame lines. On the 40mm Nokton , all you need is a small file and you remove about 0.8-1,0 mm of the material of the claw. It is easy to check, file off some material - put the lens on the camera and see if the 50 lines are diminishing and the 35 show up. Keep on filing until the 35 lines show up clearly. I tend to use a high speed Dremel cutter but a small file (even a nail file can do it).
To identify which claw it is, put the lens on the camera and look carefullt at the bayonet when you put it on. The claw that sits at about 3 a'clock is the indicator claw. It can be identified as being the only one with a sharp, 90 degree edge on it rather than the tapered one on the rest. You cant "over file" it as the 35 is the default setting for the M. If you take of too much, it still will show the 35 lines.
The 40mm f1.4 is a superb lens.I have had a couple of them 1 MC and 1 SC for the last couple of years and they are more or less permanently on a couple of M2's. It is the ideal "walk about" lens. I will try to take a couple of shots of the claw and the file marks with Tuulikki's digital and post them here later today. It is still morning and I am reading the N.Y. Times and that takes a couple of hours and also takes precedence over anything else.
 
Here is a link to a picture from a respective photo.net discussion
(http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CcwG).
This is the back of the Summicron-C. Nokton is equivalent,
although I recommend to take the lens mount off to prevent
metal dust dropping on the rear element.

00CcwG-24267684.jpg


Best,

Roland.
 
ferider said:
In theory 42 (the length of the Nokton) is just in the middle between
35 and 50.

In practice, M6 framelines are more conservative. They have to work
at both close up and infinity, they have to accomodate for slide film,
and compared to M[234] the M6 accomodates 28mm lines which caused
the other frames to shrink just a little. So at infinity, the M6 50mm
framelines are more like 65mm, the 35mm lines more like 45 and so on.

Even though the labels on the framelines might make you feel more
comfortable with a given focal lens, you have to learn how they
map to reality, for any body/lens combo. After a while you get
used to leaving a little space or cropping more strongly, depending
on which lens/line combo you pick. Some people use 75mm lines for
85mm, I use 90mm lines for 105mm, and so on.

You get used to 40<->35 mapping quite quickly. Try with gaffer tape
first if you are uncomfortable changing the mount.

If you have an SLR with 35mm lens, compare its image with the M6
framelines and you will see.

Under the bottom line, I recommend to forget about the framelines
when you pick a lens, only make sure you are comfortable with the
FOV. Once you pick a lens, you will learn how to use it with any
RF frameline matching it approximately.

Best,

Roland.

Well said. Perfectly said perhaps.
 
The mouse is one of God's most absolutely beautiful creatures? Oookay.

I just did this modification to my CV40f1.4 lens. Thank you Roland and Tom!
 
FrankS said:
The mouse is one of God's most absolutely beautiful creatures? Oookay...

The meal in question was a Meadow Jumping Mouse actually. And they are rather beautiful. Long (8") naked tail, buff to white underbelly and a very red back and head. Can jump nearly 5' in a single bound (horizontally). Deer Mouse, White-Footed Mouse, House Mouse; I'm with you Frank, but the Meadow Jumper is a real beaut.
 
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