M8 arrived today, what now?

[zvos1]

Hi all

I am sure all this info has been posted in various threads but I figured someone can give me some quick pointers in regards to filters/coding etc. I just want to get out shooting and don't have too much time researching due to work.

I have Nokton 50mm 1.5 and CV ltm to M adapter. Tried the lens on camera tonight indoors under artificial light and the test photos look fine to my eyes.

However, do I need to get IR filter and does it matter which one or will any do. Also, what is the best/cheapest way to code your lenses and what does coding actually do (beside telling camera which lens is attached)?

Finally I checked the firmware and it's 2.005, what will I gain by updating to newer firmware?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[zvos1]

You don't really need to code a 50mm lens, and if it's your only lens there's not much need to worry about the EXIF info. Depending on your LTM adapter, you might not be able to code it (Type I vs. Type II).

You will definitely want a UV/IR filter; doesn't matter so much who makes it, whether it be Leica or B+W, etc.

Finally, with the newer firmware you'll get a slightly snappier camera, though you might be hard-pressed to really notice. Still, worthwhile to update it.

Thanks, that's exactly the info I need. I am also thinking of pairing Nokton with 28mm F2 Ultron. Is there an adapter I can get that can be coded manually (I heard something like this is possible).

Thanks

 

[jarski]

I would just start using it, without bothering filters or coding. not to do a commercial gig at beginning of course, but just to observe how M8 behaves in your hands, and see results.

 

[Bobfrance]

You can buy the M-coder kit. It's basically a stencil, a marker pen and a chart. it allows you to code the lenses by drawing the correct black marks on the mount.

You will meed the type II LTM adapter ring for your Nokton as the type I has a cut out right where you need to put the marks.

If you shoot colour you definitely will need a UV/IR cut filter otherwise blacks will come out purple. Personally I'd recommend using one even if you do only shoot B&W.

The M8 is a fine camera - have fun!

 

[zvos1]

I would just start using it, without bothering filters or coding. not to do a commercial gig at beginning of course, but just to observe how M8 behaves in your hands, and see results.

That's exactly what I am doing now. I can't believe this camera is dissed so much on forums. It's a love at first sight (or touch) so far.

 

[doolittle]

Conversely on the filters, it makes a great infrared photography camera too. I got a Hoya R72 filter for it and am very pleased with the results.

 

[MCTuomey]

That's exactly what I am doing now. I can't believe this camera is dissed so much on forums. It's a love at first sight (or touch) so far.

Few people criticize the M8's files, least through ISO 800 or so. Wait until you print 'em. Enjoy the camera, glad to hear the net negativity didn't sway you.

It's a classic already. At about $1k more than an M6, a bargain too.

 

[jarski]

if only Leica would bring M8.3 with newer sensor, and upgrade option for older M8.x... 🙄

think I've got a sunstroke.. 😛

 

[zvos1]

Few people criticize the M8's files, least through ISO 800 or so. Wait until you print 'em. Enjoy the camera, glad to hear the net negativity didn't sway you.

It's a classic already. At about $1k more than an M6, a bargain too.

I agree on the files. I have cleaned up few iso 1250 files in LR3 and they don't look to shabby at all.

 

[zleica]

Buy a Arctic Butterfly for sensor dust removal. You will need it sooner or later.

Enjoy your M8!

 

[Rob-F]

High ISO isn't the M8's forté, but it's not that bad either. The most important thing is to get your exposure right in the first place, or maybe a little brighter. You never want to increase brightness (e.g. fill light, etc.) during import/post if you can help it. That will bring out the noise. Instead, try to bring it down (even crushing shadows). But this is true for all digital cameras.

Check out "Shooting in the Dark."

This is exactly what I have found. I'm not afraid to shoot at 1250. At 2500, it just depends on lighting. Well lighted shots with no deep shadows look OK to me. Sometimes a shot at 2500 will be unacceptable, but most are acceptable.

As to coding: I bought the M-coder and found that the coding marks wear off after only 3 or 4 lens changes. I think it is strictly for the one-lens-at-a-time shooter who doesn't change lenses (much) through the day. Didn't someone write about drilling shallow holes and filling them with ink or paint, so as not to have to send them in? Seems to me that the Dremel milling cutter, used in a drill press, would work for that.

 

[AncientCityPhoto]

I use 1250 all the time. You have to expose tighter since the dynamic range is slightly decreased at higher ISOs. It is usable just fine though. 2500 IS usable for certain applications, especially with decent lighting and strong exposure.

I also HIGHLY recommend an artic butterfly and sensor swabs. Using modern SLRs made me forget what a problem dust is on digital cameras. The M8 brings me right back! It gets dust. It will need to be cleaned every couple months if you shoot a lot. An expo disc helps too if you need to see the dust well. Shoot an expo disc right at a light source at f22 closest focus and the image reveals all the dust!

 

[magicianhisoka]

what to do now? shoot a lot with it 🙂

 

[willie_901]

Purchase a high-quality filter. This is not the place to compromise quality. Of course if you aren't interested in color work, forget the filter as your B&W won't suffer in the least.

Remember, IR light comes from many sources. If this was not the case IR photography would not exist. IR light affects the entire color response to some degree. The purple problem just happens to be the most obvious – foliage color problems are also obvious.

The high ISO noise problem is often discussed out of perspective. After all the M8 will perform excellently up ISO 400 to 800. It's easy to get spoiled when ISO 1600 results have very little penalty. But in my experience state-of-the-art high ISO is a luxury for most of us. (It really helps at a wedding though when the officiant says "use a flash and I'll throw you out".)

Enjoy your new camera. I think you're starting with a nice lens.

 

[Keyne]

Honestly first thing I would do (and did when my first... sigh... then second M8 arrived) is put it on a tripod and test it. Test that all the functions work but mostly test all the shutter speeds and ISO's. Then take the high ISO photos into your favorite software of choice (e.g. Lightroom, PS, etc.) zoom to 100% and scroll around the entire photo to see if there are any hot pixel sensor lines.

My first M8 had the line and I returned it the next day and then couple of months later found a 2nd one that has been great. IMO taking an hour or so to test the camera gives some piece of mind that you at least started the journey without issues.

Enjoy the camera. I LOVE my M8.

KD

 

[MCTuomey]

KD, that's sound advice. Good post.

 

[zvos1]

Honestly first thing I would do (and did when my first... sigh... then second M8 arrived) is put it on a tripod and test it. Test that all the functions work but mostly test all the shutter speeds and ISO's. Then take the high ISO photos into your favorite software of choice (e.g. Lightroom, PS, etc.) zoom to 100% and scroll around the entire photo to see if there are any hot pixel sensor lines.

My first M8 had the line and I returned it the next day and then couple of months later found a 2nd one that has been great. IMO taking an hour or so to test the camera gives some piece of mind that you at least started the journey without issues.

Enjoy the camera. I LOVE my M8.

KD

KD thanks for the advice, I had a quick look in LR and it seems fine. I'll have a better look over the weekend. BTW how is that CV Ultron working for you, did you have it coded? I am looking at cv 28mm f2 at the moment. Does 1.9 block much of the viewfinder?

 

[Keyne]

KD thanks for the advice, I had a quick look in LR and it seems fine. I'll have a better look over the weekend. BTW how is that CV Ultron working for you, did you have it coded? I am looking at cv 28mm f2 at the moment. Does 1.9 block much of the viewfinder?

The cv ultron has been nice. I just got it a couple weeks ago so really haven't fully used it yet but it doesn't blockmmuch ofmthe viewfinder. I wanted a lens wider and faster than the Zeiss 35 for a trip to Yosemite planned for September but if it wasn't for that trip I would have stayed with the 35 for longer. I really love the 35 and got really used to it and now I feel like have too many options to choose from. It's all fun though and the M8 has really made photography fun and satisfying in a way I havent been able to get with other digital cameras.

 

[cidereye]

That's exactly what I am doing now. I can't believe this camera is dissed so much on forums. It's a love at first sight (or touch) so far.

Most people who diss the M8 have never even held one, let alone actually owned or used one that's one of the reason so many diss it. Numpties that they are - ahh ... the wonders of the internet. 😛

Enjoy it!

I own a 50mm f/1.5 Nokton too and it's a great lens and on my pairing I have very few problems getting accurate focus @ f/1.5 which is a bonus. Re: UV/IR filter FYI - Leica do not produce any 52mm UV/IR filters so either a B+W or Marumi will be the most common choices. AFAIK Marumi make Leica's UV/IR filters and I've found their 52mm version to be just fine.

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

Most people who diss the M8 have never even held one, let alone actually owned or used one that's one of the reason so many diss it. Numpties that they are - ahh ... the wonders of the internet. 😛

What could have ever prompted you to jump at such conclusions?