M8 + Heliar Classic 50/2 [Img]

pizzahut88

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http://viking-manfred.blogspot.com/
 
Thank you for posting these great pictures. The small Heliar does very well on the big M8. I have never understood why people qualify this lens as "soft."

Cheers!

Abbazz
 
My copy of this lens is nearly welded to my CL. It's as sharp as I could wish for, and the bokeh is amazing. I almost never shoot color with this lens, but the above photos remind me that I should do it more often.
 
It's a great lens on the M8. For me 50mm + 1.3 crop factor makes a very nice portrait FL and the bokeh, build and handling are all lovely. Plus it's one of the few lenses that you can safely collapse on the M8. Pity it doesn't focus a little closer...
 
Hi All,

I was actually very surprised by the results I've gotten from this lens.
Before, I was thinking of selling this one, and replacing it with the ElmarM 50/2.8

Both images were shot at F2.4.
Voigltander are excellent in value for money.
 
Indeed

Indeed

Andy Aitken said:
It's a great lens on the M8. For me 50mm + 1.3 crop factor makes a very nice portrait FL and the bokeh, build and handling are all lovely. Plus it's one of the few lenses that you can safely collapse on the M8. Pity it doesn't focus a little closer...


It would have been perfect if it focused up to 0.7m.
Closest focuing distance on this Heliar is 1m.

And I confirm it does safely collapse into the M8.
I wish there was a similar one in 40mm.
 
M8 + Heliar

M8 + Heliar

I love it on the M8, but don't use it on the M3 or M4P. Never been a fan of the 50 until the M8. Even on my Nikon D2 I use the 45P. On the M3 and M4-P I like the 40mm in either VC or Summicron. YMMV though.
 
In my experience the lens is soft wide open -- but that might be viewed as a 'classic' look. Stop it down a bit and it is very sharp, with lovely colour.

Cheers,
Kirk
 
I found the lens very soft both on the M8 and the 101, dismissed write ups as propaganda to sell a camera. I compared it with my Old Summicron and the Summicron blew it away, hands down.
 
Not wanting to dash cold water, but the shot is a bit back-focussed, with the door in better focus than the eyes of the girl. That is probably the reason the hair has lost structure.
On such a shot you must do some photoshop.
Convert it to Tiff 16-bits and aRGB in DNG conversion to avoid the posterizing you see now. Only convert to 8 bits Jpeg and if needed to sRGB when you are ready.
Remove the hot spots on the face, whiten the teeth, add considerable local sharpening to eyes, eyebrows and hair.
 
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jaapv said:
Not wanting to dash cold water, but the shot is a bit back-focussed, with the door in better focus than the eyes of the girl. That is probably the reason the hair has lost structure.
On such a shot you must do some photoshop.
Convert it to Tiff 16-bits and aRGB in DNG conversion to avoid the posterizing you see now. Only convert to 8 bits Jpeg and if needed to sRGB when you are ready.
Remove the hot spots on the face, whiten the teeth, add considerable local sharpening to eyes, eyebrows and hair.

Other than that, a perfect shot................ :)
 
Point is, it IS a good shot. It just needs some work.The only thing that is irrecoverable is the focus, but sharpening will camouflage that to some extent.
 
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Patman said:
I found the lens very soft both on the M8 and the 101, dismissed write ups as propaganda to sell a camera. I compared it with my Old Summicron and the Summicron blew it away, hands down.

Hi Patman!

Indeed you are correct, do take those comments on review sites with a grain of salt.
I have found the perfect balance for sharp fore ground and good brokeh starts appearing at F2.4

It seem F2.4 gives a good results.
At F2, the image is softer.
Nonetheless, the build quality of this lens is quite high, in Voigtlander terms that is.

:D Only half the price of Elmar M 50/2.8
 
jaapv said:
Not wanting to dash cold water, but the shot is a bit back-focussed, with the door in better focus than the eyes of the girl. That is probably the reason the hair has lost structure.
On such a shot you must do some photoshop.
Convert it to Tiff 16-bits and aRGB in DNG conversion to avoid the posterizing you see now. Only convert to 8 bits Jpeg and if needed to sRGB when you are ready.
Remove the hot spots on the face, whiten the teeth, add considerable local sharpening to eyes, eyebrows and hair.

Thanks for the tip.
I am such a lazy bone.
So far my results are not very consistent. My fault really. :eek:
Perhaps I might need some guidance on whether I should adjust my lens for backfocus on the M8.
But then I might make worse.
I have really bad eyes.
 
pizzahut88 said:
Thanks for the tip.
I am such a lazy bone.
So far my results are not very consistent. My fault really. :eek:
Perhaps I might need some guidance on whether I should adjust my lens for backfocus on the M8.
But then I might make worse.
I have really bad eyes.

Lens may not be the sharpesr but i love the photos especially the second one, your model is very lovely!
 
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