Frank Petronio
Well-known
Thank you Christopher, I find your work fascinating and that gallery is so interesting -- from both points of view: a technical one as well as simple "good" picture appreciation.
downstairs
downstairs
Hello again Frank. I see we both have both feet on both sides of the fence.
I appeciate support coming from you.
I appeciate support coming from you.
ChrisC
Established
... 100X easier to load film holders than spools? That sounds great to me.
Rob - Steady. Loading, processing, even drying films have their techniques and people who make it problem free may well be able to do these things in their sleep because they have years of experience to make processes 'automatic'. I worked with a viewfinder camera for many years and mostly worked with 120 rollfilm 6x9 [cm.] format because it gave me negatives close in area to a cropped 5x4 [that's inches of course] with the advantage of processing film rolls instead of film sheets. Modern films in 120 rollfilm formats can render an immense amount of detail, and you can use fabulous large format lenses from makers like Rodenstock, Sneider, Nikon, Fuji, which are currently available for embarrassing bargain basement prices.
After too many years of breathing the wretched stuff I now hate the darkroom smell of fix and blix and cannot see anything romantic about working again in dark stink. However if the route attracts you, and you consider B&W 120 film processing, I strongly recommend that you use metal spirals [and yes - some are better than others] and process in single-spiral tanks, one film at a time.
'Film' has amazing technology, but boy, I hate the workflow attached to it. Good luck though.
.............. Chris
Frank Petronio
Well-known
Haha if you want a 6x9 camera then get a 6x9 camera, but it's only half of a 9x12 ~ 4x5 sheet. I used to use roll film backs for cheap catalog clients or when I travelled for weeks at a time but for recreational photography why not go for the full-tilt experience?
I have a friend who operates a good pro lab, the last one in Rochester, that used to do all local work and now does mostly mail order. I tell Edgar he has the "last wet lab" http://www.4photolab.com/. He uses a Jobo for B&W sheet film. I think my next round will be mostly Porta 400 C-41 color neg, it is more expensive than B&W film but the color can be really nice itself and I like having colors to use when I make a B&W conversion. It's also easier for the lab to process in his automated machines, so he turns it around in a couple of hours, just like the 1990s!
But I used to run a darkroom and processing six sheets of 4x5 in a tray is no harder than shuffling a few prints, with only moderate care no to catch a corner and scratch another sheet. So if you can tolerate a wet darkroom, why not?
From there I scan, mostly on an Epson 4990 but when I want it, I can use a friend's Imacon or pay for a Howtek or better drum scan. I mostly am satisfied with the Epson since I usually only print 11x14 on my 7-8 year old Epson 2200.
I use the Harrington Quad-Tone RIP ($50 donation) for B&W on the 2200, along with good Baryta paper. The RIP is wonderful, a pain to install but worth it. I've sold prints to serious photographers who have been using the latest printers and they assure me that for B&W at least, the old 2200 w the RIP does everything just fine and the prints look great, and not to brag too much but they really do stand up to good darkroom prints, at least framed so you don't see the bronzing at an off-angle ;-) Really though, this solved my Metarism issues and the prints can be dead neutral.
For color I still find it good enough for my portfolios and while it isn't an economical printer once you do more than 250 11x14 prints per year, I don't feel compelled to move on until it finally breaks.
I think there is a waste ink tank inside it that eventually fills up and you need to do surgery to empty it -- I've heard of this online somewhere -- and it is Epson's planned obsolescence device. I might hit that someday, in which case it may be time to finally weigh in whether to get the 2880 descendant or go for the 1380, which is the better value ink-wise. But I am not that big a printer so I am at that threshold of both printers being about the same price to run.
I haven't run the newer printers but I think Epson's drivers are better for B&W so perhaps the Harrington RIP isn't needed with a new printer?
I just bought a second late model Crown in clean excellent plus shape with a nice Optar lens for $300, which I think is a fair price for a good example. It's missing the battery door for the FocusSpot gizmo and I will stuff a McDonalds toy, a hash pipe (jk), $20, or something cute into the recess.
I have a friend who operates a good pro lab, the last one in Rochester, that used to do all local work and now does mostly mail order. I tell Edgar he has the "last wet lab" http://www.4photolab.com/. He uses a Jobo for B&W sheet film. I think my next round will be mostly Porta 400 C-41 color neg, it is more expensive than B&W film but the color can be really nice itself and I like having colors to use when I make a B&W conversion. It's also easier for the lab to process in his automated machines, so he turns it around in a couple of hours, just like the 1990s!
But I used to run a darkroom and processing six sheets of 4x5 in a tray is no harder than shuffling a few prints, with only moderate care no to catch a corner and scratch another sheet. So if you can tolerate a wet darkroom, why not?
From there I scan, mostly on an Epson 4990 but when I want it, I can use a friend's Imacon or pay for a Howtek or better drum scan. I mostly am satisfied with the Epson since I usually only print 11x14 on my 7-8 year old Epson 2200.
I use the Harrington Quad-Tone RIP ($50 donation) for B&W on the 2200, along with good Baryta paper. The RIP is wonderful, a pain to install but worth it. I've sold prints to serious photographers who have been using the latest printers and they assure me that for B&W at least, the old 2200 w the RIP does everything just fine and the prints look great, and not to brag too much but they really do stand up to good darkroom prints, at least framed so you don't see the bronzing at an off-angle ;-) Really though, this solved my Metarism issues and the prints can be dead neutral.
For color I still find it good enough for my portfolios and while it isn't an economical printer once you do more than 250 11x14 prints per year, I don't feel compelled to move on until it finally breaks.
I think there is a waste ink tank inside it that eventually fills up and you need to do surgery to empty it -- I've heard of this online somewhere -- and it is Epson's planned obsolescence device. I might hit that someday, in which case it may be time to finally weigh in whether to get the 2880 descendant or go for the 1380, which is the better value ink-wise. But I am not that big a printer so I am at that threshold of both printers being about the same price to run.
I haven't run the newer printers but I think Epson's drivers are better for B&W so perhaps the Harrington RIP isn't needed with a new printer?
I just bought a second late model Crown in clean excellent plus shape with a nice Optar lens for $300, which I think is a fair price for a good example. It's missing the battery door for the FocusSpot gizmo and I will stuff a McDonalds toy, a hash pipe (jk), $20, or something cute into the recess.
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R
rpsawin
Guest
I have an M8 and am just getting started with 4x5. I agree with Roger's comments about the M9 (M8 in my case) being fine for color. But for b&w film still looks best to me regardless of format. Having said that a properly developed 4x5 negative is the ultimate for me.
Best regards,
Bob
Best regards,
Bob
robklurfield
eclipse
Chris, you're too late. I've already got a Rolleicord. I love the big negs. The TLR way of shooting doesn't quite grab me after so many years using rangefinders. If I can find some spare money, I may go the Mamiya 6 or 7 route. It would probably be the most natural move for my style of shooting.
Rob - Steady. Loading, processing, even drying films have their techniques and people who make it problem free may well be able to do these things in their sleep because they have years of experience to make processes 'automatic'. I worked with a viewfinder camera for many years and mostly worked with 120 rollfilm 6x9 [cm.] format because it gave me negatives close in area to a cropped 5x4 [that's inches of course] with the advantage of processing film rolls instead of film sheets. Modern films in 120 rollfilm formats can render an immense amount of detail, and you can use fabulous large format lenses from makers like Rodenstock, Sneider, Nikon, Fuji, which are currently available for embarrassing bargain basement prices.
After too many years of breathing the wretched stuff I now hate the darkroom smell of fix and blix and cannot see anything romantic about working again in dark stink. However if the route attracts you, and you consider B&W 120 film processing, I strongly recommend that you use metal spirals [and yes - some are better than others] and process in single-spiral tanks, one film at a time.
'Film' has amazing technology, but boy, I hate the workflow attached to it. Good luck though.
.............. Chris
ChrisC
Established
..... already got a Rolleicord.... I may go the Mamiya 6 or 7 route......
Aha. I hope you enjoy a new way of working with the Rollei. I sold my Mamiya7 cameras when downsizing to the M8, either the '7' or the '6' will produce fabulous negs if you choose them. There are some amazing options and fabulous lenses available amongst 120 rangefinder cameras.
............. Chris
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