M9 shutter release: standard or soft?

M9 shutter release: standard or soft?

  • Standard

    Votes: 65 61.9%
  • Soft

    Votes: 40 38.1%

  • Total voters
    105
Marc, good point about the shutter stop, and that is the reason why I use soft option. However, the way to avoid camera shake in standard mode is to lock exposure first for a short moment, then release the shutter which behaves like in soft mode since you are past the problematic stop already. Not an ideal solution for fast shooting though.

As for minimum shutter speed, I find film in general to be more forgiving. I always shoot at least 2 stops higher than what I was used to with film.
 
but the harder the stops get the easier you get camera shake. even if you lock the exposure first it's still a huge difference between the soft film shutter button and the 3 stop digital one. this is why I find the soft mode the only alternative for relaxed shooting for me. without that mode I wouldnt save up for a M-E now
 
Hi, recently got a rigid shutter release....what a nightmare 😀 the camera shts when she wants to.....got rid of it right away....although i have it in a box...it´s still a pretty piee of cjromed brass....🙄
 
my best hit was 1/2 second on my film M. on the digital one the minimum shutter speed I need is 1/8th with a 28mm lens. no success at slower speeds. I blame the shutter material 😀
 
Hi i used a standard SR...horrible experience just couldn´t get used to it...also very dangerous to the shutter itself since any lateral hit on the SR may fault the real shutter button...
 
I use standard if I'm shooting in A mode, but soft if I'm shooting in M mode. Why? The soft won't permit locking exposure in A mode.
 
The metering area is the same size relative to the frame, no matter which lens you use, so I'm not sure that's it.

Maggie is right, of course: the metering area increases in size in inverse proportion to the focal length. This was even made explicit in the M5 instructions in the early '70s. With a 28 and especially a 21, a significant proportion of the frame is sky, and the grey shutter blades reflect more of that light than with a 50 and the calculation of exposure leads to underexposure. Pointing the 21 or 28 downwards first and locking exposure, or shooting manual, are best for good exposure of shadow detail. I have switched to Soft mode with the M9 and shoot manual more often.

Indeed, the M6 manual states that the metering field is a circle with a diameter 2/3 of the short side of the appropriate frame line for that lens. For a 90 this is very small, and for a 21 it is most of the Leica's viewfinder field.
 
Interesting. Why is exposure lock especially important with a 28mm lens?

The exposure for an image taken with a wide angle lens can be more challenging to estimate than for images taken with a ess wide lens. "More" happens in a wide angle image. I use a spotmeter.
 
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