willie_901
Veteran
You may already have this document:
www.hamrick.com/vuescan/vuescan.pdf
Vuescan has a raw mode but it isn't exactly raw in the meaning associated with digital cameras.
In raw mode the file contains only what the scanner recorded with no curves, WB, or any other parameters applied. But the image is rendered. After you save the Vuescan raw file, you can virtually rescan the raw data any number of times with different Vuescan parameters. The scanner is no loner involved. The advantage is: you only have to physically scan once. So, you can efficiently see how different scanning parameters, such as negative profiles affect the virtual scan. You can also work on the unaltered file in other programs such as LR, PS, etc.
There are many skilled Vuescan users here so I'm sure you will get more (and different) advice.
www.hamrick.com/vuescan/vuescan.pdf
Vuescan has a raw mode but it isn't exactly raw in the meaning associated with digital cameras.
In raw mode the file contains only what the scanner recorded with no curves, WB, or any other parameters applied. But the image is rendered. After you save the Vuescan raw file, you can virtually rescan the raw data any number of times with different Vuescan parameters. The scanner is no loner involved. The advantage is: you only have to physically scan once. So, you can efficiently see how different scanning parameters, such as negative profiles affect the virtual scan. You can also work on the unaltered file in other programs such as LR, PS, etc.
There are many skilled Vuescan users here so I'm sure you will get more (and different) advice.
Ronald M
Veteran
Partition the disk or add an external, run windows with parallels or boot camp.
mszargar
Established
I use VueScan to scan according to this:
http://125px.com/articles/photography/digital/colorneg/
This is by far the best way I have found to remove the color cast without pain, while keeping the whole dynamic range. This, I think, works only with Nikon scanners that support analog RGBI exposure values.
Then I use the following tool to convert the negatives into positives, while removing any color cast left:
https://sites.google.com/site/negfix/howto
You can do this without the first step, and with any scanner, but if the color cast is strong and the shot is contrasty, you may lose some of the dynamic range on certain color channels.
Hope this helps!
http://125px.com/articles/photography/digital/colorneg/
This is by far the best way I have found to remove the color cast without pain, while keeping the whole dynamic range. This, I think, works only with Nikon scanners that support analog RGBI exposure values.
Then I use the following tool to convert the negatives into positives, while removing any color cast left:
https://sites.google.com/site/negfix/howto
You can do this without the first step, and with any scanner, but if the color cast is strong and the shot is contrasty, you may lose some of the dynamic range on certain color channels.
Hope this helps!