picturetaker
Established
ast time I picked up a rangefinder was almost 40yrs ago. Now I want to take the photos and develop them as well. I do not have access to a dedicated darkroom so what is the best/easiest way to get started? Equipment (brand names?), chemicals etc. I assume the chemicals have directions on them re time etc.
I am thinking workflow like 1) take the photo, 2) develop at home, 3) scan the negatives, 3) print what I want at home. The enlarger route is not something I can undertake at the moment.
So I guess I need the full basic pointers or a site that can provide noobie instructions. Appreciate all the input I can get even if it pops my balloon(s). Many thanks
I am thinking workflow like 1) take the photo, 2) develop at home, 3) scan the negatives, 3) print what I want at home. The enlarger route is not something I can undertake at the moment.
So I guess I need the full basic pointers or a site that can provide noobie instructions. Appreciate all the input I can get even if it pops my balloon(s). Many thanks
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
Thats exactly what I'm doing. I bought myself a cheap Zorki-4K. I'm using a 'Jessops' film tank with universal developer, stop bath, fix. A couple measuring cylinders, a sink or chemical disposal area, and somewhere dry and warm to dry the films.
Thats pretty much all I'm using I think!
Once you have the film, read up on developing times for your type of developer, follow developing time, stop bath, fix time, wash. dry the negs, wash out your developing tank and cylinders (save the stop and fix to re-use).
Hope that helps for a really quick start
Thats pretty much all I'm using I think!
Once you have the film, read up on developing times for your type of developer, follow developing time, stop bath, fix time, wash. dry the negs, wash out your developing tank and cylinders (save the stop and fix to re-use).
Hope that helps for a really quick start
sf
Veteran
You'll need the film scanner, chemicals, thermometer, graduated cylinder, developing tank w/reels, timer, and containers for your chemicals. And a good printer.
I use a Canon IP5000 - amazing print quality, but you could get away with spending half as much and still get decent B&W results. Or better with a shades of gray inkset.
Total price in USD (no idea about prices in Canada) - approx. $800 (if you buy a dedicated scanner of good quality). You could save probably $400 by getting a cheapy flatbed or save $200 by finding a used dedicated. Give or take.
I use a Canon IP5000 - amazing print quality, but you could get away with spending half as much and still get decent B&W results. Or better with a shades of gray inkset.
Total price in USD (no idea about prices in Canada) - approx. $800 (if you buy a dedicated scanner of good quality). You could save probably $400 by getting a cheapy flatbed or save $200 by finding a used dedicated. Give or take.
bmattock
Veteran
Welcome, Larry. Sounds like you have a nice stable of well-regarded RF cameras, so now it all turns on what you want to do with them.
When you say you want to process your own film, I will presume you mean B&W. It is possible to do your own C41 (color print) and C6 (slide film), but not many do - it tends towards the expensive, and the chemicals are a bit more dangerous, temperatures and times a bit more critical.
You don't need a darkroom to get started doing what you describe (process, scan, print). All you need is a dark closet or a changing bag to load the exposed film from the cartridge to the light-proof film cannister where the chemicals will go.
There are so many choices with regard to film, chemistry, and even equipment, that it is difficult to give advice that is meaningful. Everyone has their own 'pet' choices and they all work well for those who tend to advocate them.
In generic terms, you need a changing bag (optional if you have a dark closet), a developing tank (plastic or stainless steel), with film reels inside (plastic or stainless steel). You'll need a good thermometer, a timer, access to a sink with running water (need not be dedicated), and a place to hang your film to dry that is relatively dry and dust-free as possible. You may also choose a squeegee to get the water off your film before you hang it to dry (optional).
For chemistry, you need a developer and a fixer. Nothing else is absolutely required, but some people prefer to use them - such as stop bath, hypo clear, and photo-flo.
For film, you have a choice of Kodak, Fuji, Ilford (the biggies) and a variety of other brands made by Eastern European and Chineses companies like Efke (Adox), Foma, Forte, Lucky, and so on. All made in a variety of speeds and with different primary characteristics, and everyone again has their own preferences.
If I had to throw out brand names and types, I would say (and this is strictly personal preference):
1) Film - Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5+ Both versatile, both used by many, both very well understood. If you have problems with these, there are many who have used them who can give you advice. They also can be used a higher and lower than rated speeds if need be.
2) Developer - Kodak D-76. I understand Ilford ID-11 is the same stuff. In any case, the gold standard of developers - if you follow the directions even vaguely, you will get printable / scannable negs.
3) Fixer - Doesn't matter. I like Kodak Rapid-Fix, with hardener, but I don't think there is much difference in fixer.
4) Developing tanks - Kindermann makes nice plastic tanks, Nikor makes nice stainless steel. I prefer a third path - 1950's Kodacraft 'ravioli' aprons. But I seem to be the only one...so whatever you choose will probably work well. People seem to polarize along what works for them in this regard.
Other than that, all I can do is point you at a resource for purchases that I find useful - Freestyle Photo in California:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/
Best of Luck and Welcome!
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
When you say you want to process your own film, I will presume you mean B&W. It is possible to do your own C41 (color print) and C6 (slide film), but not many do - it tends towards the expensive, and the chemicals are a bit more dangerous, temperatures and times a bit more critical.
You don't need a darkroom to get started doing what you describe (process, scan, print). All you need is a dark closet or a changing bag to load the exposed film from the cartridge to the light-proof film cannister where the chemicals will go.
There are so many choices with regard to film, chemistry, and even equipment, that it is difficult to give advice that is meaningful. Everyone has their own 'pet' choices and they all work well for those who tend to advocate them.
In generic terms, you need a changing bag (optional if you have a dark closet), a developing tank (plastic or stainless steel), with film reels inside (plastic or stainless steel). You'll need a good thermometer, a timer, access to a sink with running water (need not be dedicated), and a place to hang your film to dry that is relatively dry and dust-free as possible. You may also choose a squeegee to get the water off your film before you hang it to dry (optional).
For chemistry, you need a developer and a fixer. Nothing else is absolutely required, but some people prefer to use them - such as stop bath, hypo clear, and photo-flo.
For film, you have a choice of Kodak, Fuji, Ilford (the biggies) and a variety of other brands made by Eastern European and Chineses companies like Efke (Adox), Foma, Forte, Lucky, and so on. All made in a variety of speeds and with different primary characteristics, and everyone again has their own preferences.
If I had to throw out brand names and types, I would say (and this is strictly personal preference):
1) Film - Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5+ Both versatile, both used by many, both very well understood. If you have problems with these, there are many who have used them who can give you advice. They also can be used a higher and lower than rated speeds if need be.
2) Developer - Kodak D-76. I understand Ilford ID-11 is the same stuff. In any case, the gold standard of developers - if you follow the directions even vaguely, you will get printable / scannable negs.
3) Fixer - Doesn't matter. I like Kodak Rapid-Fix, with hardener, but I don't think there is much difference in fixer.
4) Developing tanks - Kindermann makes nice plastic tanks, Nikor makes nice stainless steel. I prefer a third path - 1950's Kodacraft 'ravioli' aprons. But I seem to be the only one...so whatever you choose will probably work well. People seem to polarize along what works for them in this regard.
Other than that, all I can do is point you at a resource for purchases that I find useful - Freestyle Photo in California:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/
Best of Luck and Welcome!
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
Gid
Well-known
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=31
The link above to Ilford will tell you everything you need to know to get started. You don't need a darkroom for you workflow, a changing bag and a daylight developing tank will suffice.
Enjoy
The link above to Ilford will tell you everything you need to know to get started. You don't need a darkroom for you workflow, a changing bag and a daylight developing tank will suffice.
Enjoy
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
If cash it tight take the negs to any minilab, uncut, and have them do the scans at as high a resolution as they can.
picturetaker
Established
Great replies - many thanks to all. Getting started is only the beginning of course but I can hardly wait.
RicardoD
Well-known
Larry,
Basically I was in your shoes a month or so ago. You can click on this link here to see what equipment and process I decided upon to develop my own B&W film:
click here for my newbie Diafine process for B&W film
I am developing my second roll (first roll off of my Bessa R) tonight.
Basically I was in your shoes a month or so ago. You can click on this link here to see what equipment and process I decided upon to develop my own B&W film:
click here for my newbie Diafine process for B&W film
I am developing my second roll (first roll off of my Bessa R) tonight.
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