Malta

Paul Jenkin

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After last year's epic drive across the USA (via Route 66) and as a result of uncertainty over ongoing job situation, my wife and I are looking to have a relatively modest holiday in Malta this year.

I visited Malta once many years ago (late 80s or early 90s, I can't remember!!) but that was a "fun in the sun" sort of holiday. This time, however, I want to get below the surface of the place and find the historic, photogenic and just downright interesting places.

We'll be booking into a typically tourist hotel around the Sliema / St Julien's area and using the services of buses and taxis to get around. Our intention is to travel end of September / beginning of October when there'll be fewer tourists (hopefully) and temperatures won't be so extreme.

Anyway, are there any RFF members who live in Malta and are prepared to provide us with some pointers? Alternatively, has anyone else toured Malta extensively and have any advice / tips that thay're happy to share?
 
Paul:

Top tips from my visit there are:

1. Valetta old town
2. Grand Harbour - get a boat tour
3. Mdina - well-preserved town in the centre of the island
4. Gozo - easy to visit on a day trip

St Julien area is photogenic if you like photographing bars, tourists and hotels - and I expect late Sept/early Oct will still be busy. Good bus services from there to other parts of the island so it's a good base.

As background, Empires of the Sea by Roger Crowley is a cracking read about the 1565 Great Siege of Malta - you can still see the forts in the Grand Harbour that were so prominent in the battle.
 
Our own Mr Hicks knows a fair bit about Malta.


http://www.semiadventuroustraveler.com/pst malta.html


I was there last summer and the only additional info I can offer would be to find out where the religious festas are going on during your stay. I was lucky enough to be there when the Mosta festa was going on.

My wife and I spoke to a local taxi driver, negotiated a price and he took us along, deposited us close to the action and thereafter collected us before the fireworks and the traffic congestion started.

http://www.visitmalta.com/en/events
 
Our own Mr Hicks knows a fair bit about Malta.


http://www.semiadventuroustraveler.com/pst malta.html


I was there last summer and the only additional info I can offer would be to find out where the religious festas are going on during your stay. I was lucky enough to be there when the Mosta festa was going on.

My wife and I spoke to a local taxi driver, negotiated a price and he took us along, deposited us close to the action and thereafter collected us before the fireworks and the traffic congestion started.

http://www.visitmalta.com/en/events
The fireworks are the best bit!

To the OP: Consider arranging car hire beforehand: it works out a LOT cheaper than renting in Malta, and it's a lot more flexible than buses and taxis and probably cheaper. Try Skycars in the UK. It is, indeed, one of the most photogenic places on earth -- but the tourist areas are HORRIBLE. Their only advantage is that they're often silly-cheap, and you can add another week or two for absurdly little money.

The piece linked is a bit out of date -- no digi, and the Maltese Pound is no more -- but you really should, if you possibly can, go to Gozo as well. See also the piece on out of season travel, http://www.semiadventuroustraveler.com/semi out of season.html

Cheers,

R.
 
My daughter and I plan on spending some time on Malta (at Roger's suggestion) at the end of October and first part of November. I will be interested in your observations.
 
When I was on Malta I opted for a hotel in the old town of Valetta. The central bus station was nearly across the street and the morning and evening walks through the calm near tourist-less Valetta were great.
I did the rest of the island via bus but today I would rent (at least for a few days) a car.
 
We visited in February. Fabulous! €6.50 for a week's unlimited travel ticket on the buses - busy but what a good way to get around. The biggest problem is figuring out what not to see. Walking around the harbours (outside the walls) is fascinating. The museums are excellent (the War museum has such items as the George Cross (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Cross_%28Malta%29 on display alongside a letter from the King) - and loads of other fascinating and iconic exhibits (including a cat who thought that the seat of one of the lorries was very comfortable indeed).

We stayed in Sliema - cheap, food shops, cafes, restaurants, etc., and busy but just a shuttle boat's hop into Valetta which could easily absorb an entire holiday.

One thing is that some of the archaeological sites need pre-booking in order to visit so you need to research these and sort out what you want to see.
 
Thanks for the advice, one and all. I'm a little reluctant to do car rental as (a) I've no idea where I'd park the ting if we end up at a tourist type hotel with no on-site car park and (b) I really like the idea of the "hop-on, hop-off" type bus service which, I presume, will take us to most of the places of interest we need to see.

Gozo looks beautiful. Apprently, there are a few UNESCO World Heritage Sites on Malta.

Really looking forward to it. Next decision is MF or 35mm, digital and/or film........!!
 
We visited in February. Fabulous! €6.50 for a week's unlimited travel ticket on the buses - busy but what a good way to get around. The biggest problem is figuring out what not to see. Walking around the harbours (outside the walls) is fascinating. The museums are excellent (the War museum has such items as the George Cross (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Cross_%28Malta%29 on display alongside a letter from the King) - and loads of other fascinating and iconic exhibits (including a cat who thought that the seat of one of the lorries was very comfortable indeed).

We stayed in Sliema - cheap, food shops, cafes, restaurants, etc., and busy but just a shuttle boat's hop into Valetta which could easily absorb an entire holiday.

One thing is that some of the archaeological sites need pre-booking in order to visit so you need to research these and sort out what you want to see.
Aaargh! Which ones? (I've not been there since this was the case, except for the Hypogeum).

Cheers,

R.
 
Thanks for the advice, one and all. I'm a little reluctant to do car rental as (a) I've no idea where I'd park the ting if we end up at a tourist type hotel with no on-site car park and (b) I really like the idea of the "hop-on, hop-off" type bus service which, I presume, will take us to most of the places of interest we need to see.

Gozo looks beautiful. Apprently, there are a few UNESCO World Heritage Sites on Malta.

Really looking forward to it. Next decision is MF or 35mm, digital and/or film........!!
First, I've never found parking much of a problem except in Valletta -- easier than any big city -- and second, some of the best stuff isn't exactly on bus routes. Also, waiting for a bus in Malta is damnably hot and sometimes quite time consuming. Malta is one big "place of interest" and there's no real "need to see" -- you just find stuff, far more stuff than you'll find if you aren't under your own steam. Biggest muzzle loader in the world? Early Christian rock-cut graves? A neolithic temple behind a sewage works (honest!); "Clapham Junction"...

The first time I went there as an adult, with Frances at the age of 40 (I'd last seen it at 10), we didn't hire a car. Not for the first three days... Then we did. I'd really, really recommend it. But maybe that's just me. I first rode without my parents on a Maltese bus in 1958, at the age of 8, with my 6-year-old brother in tow.

Cheers,

R.
 
Aaargh! Which ones? (I've not been there since this was the case, except for the Hypogeum).

Cheers,

R.
I can't remember but pretty sure there were two we should have booked to see - the Hypogeum and another, I'll check. I assume its simply visitor numbers.

We've hired cars on Gozo before (essential for diving) although its small, but this year our impression was that Malta is now VERY busy with a lot of traffic and I'd be wary. Also the new buses are excellent. Plenty to see via the buses, perhaps a second visit might just warrant a car, though having just asked my wife she'd be perfectly happy to use the buses again and would prefer to use them than to hire. Basically, its a fascinating place either way.
 
Thanks Roger.

I will check out car hire and parking - though we might just have one for a few days (maybe a week) rather than for both weeks as I travel a lot with work and it'd be nice to be able to have a glass of two of the falling down water when we're out and about without having to worry about breaking the law.

A friend told me about this company:

http://www.citysightseeing.com.mt/en/special-offers.htm

which seems to go to most of the (probably more obvious) sights / sites. There's also a new bus company set up in 2014 with modern buses. Probably soulless compared to the old British buses I used when I visited the place years ago - but then I wouldn't have welcomed air-conditioning as much in those days as I would today.

Thanks for the link to the website. Looks like a fascinating place.
 
Definitely MF :) but also take a pinhole - I got some good tourist-free shots of Mdina by making long pinhole exposures on my Harman Titan.
 
It is colorful, very dry climate, and a lot of rocks, rocks and rocks and ...churches, churches and churches :)
Was there quite long ago on a business trip and was lucky to have a car with a driver in the afternoon at my disposal so I had a look around at the 3 Isles. Especially the boat trips around the Isles are great. Btw think you would like the trip on the ferry to the Isles although it is a very old Dutch boat :)
 
I've had a serious think about the kit and have decided on my Hasselblad XPan with 30mm, 45mm and 90mm lenses + Porta 400 (+ my Fuji X100 for low-light / indoor snaps). I'll also take a small tripod as I'd really like to get some early morning and dusk panoramic shots.
 
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