Manual Focusing with the X Series

PatrickT

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How is manual focusing on the XPro or XE cameras? What I'm referring to specifically is using Fuji's own lenses (like the 35/1.4) that are "drive by wire"...is the manual focusing responsive and accurate?

I used to own an X100 and now have an X100S. The X100's manual focus was unusable. The X100S' manual focus is great and almost perfect. When the XPro first came out, I tried it with the 35/1.4 and the MF was terrible. Has it gotten better on these cameras?
 
I use manual focusing occasionally on the XPro with 35/1.4 and it feels like the focus "throw" is very long, like you have to turn and turn to get much focus movement. I'm not sure if that's what was terrible in your experience, but it's the only drawback I perceive. I think the firmware upgrade to focus peaking is very helpful -- with the peaking and a high magnification, you can be pretty confident about critical focus.
 
The most recent firmware improves the XE-1 and X-Pro 1's simulated manual focus behavior. It is much better than the X100 use to be. Of course with the most recent firmware the X100 itself is much better as well.
 
I've got only manual legacy lenses for my X-E2 (until the Feb 9 sale kicks in!) and personally loving the split-image focusing. And I can change that to peaking, none, combining any of that with magnification just with one dial.

Now, like Patrick, I'm really interested in how it's like to do the same with XF lenses.
 
Is the 23/1.4 focus-by-wire or proper? I understand it has a movable focus collar with a scale. Or are all of the lenses focus/aperture-by-wire?

I will note that Sony's E-mount FE lenses have impressive manual focus implementation. (again, by-wire). But I don't love their DMF hybrid.

Does a focus-by-wire system really save that much space in a lens? Are there any mirrorless cameras with DSLR-style focus rings or lenses with proper hard stops?
 
Focus by wire DOES NOT save space in the lens. All AF or motorized focus lenses that incorporate a motor INSIDE the lens are larger in diameter than a simple conventional MF construction would allow.
The same goes for the AF/MF clutch system like Canon or Nikon; it's mainly the motor that necessitates the size increase.
Other than it's unnecessarily bloated diameter(due to the motor inside), the 23mm I have is optically excellent.
 
I've got only manual legacy lenses for my X-E2 (until the Feb 9 sale kicks in!) and personally loving the split-image focusing. And I can change that to peaking, none, combining any of that with magnification just with one dial.

Now, like Patrick, I'm really interested in how it's like to do the same with XF lenses.

The BIG bonus you get manually focusing with XF lenses is that you're doing it with the lens wide open automatically. With legacy lenses, unless you remember to open them to widest aperture, you're focusing with a dimmer view and this makes seeing the peaking feature more difficult. I've found that I get somewhat frustrated when using legacy lenses for this reason. It takes a lot more time to open the lens up, focus, then stop it back down to the desired aperture.
 
I have an XP1 with the 18-55 and latest firmware. I have set it to manual focus with the AFL/AEL button set to focus the lens. A press on this button normally focuses the lens more or less immediately and I then only need to focus again if I move or if the subject moves. I mostly use the OVF so I check the distance scale to see if the camera really focused on what I was pointing at. If not, I use the focus ring on the lens. This is fly-by-wire, but for scale focusing (which I am quite practiced act and find quicker) it is fine. None of the winding the ring around several times like folks used to complain about. I only use the focus peaking when I have plenty of time to compose. Then I find it very satisfactory. HTH
 
This is a practical and useful approach.

I would add that a quick round-trip to the EVF with a a digital zoomed view is another way to confirm and fine-tune focus.

I have an XP1 with the 18-55 and latest firmware. I have set it to manual focus with the AFL/AEL button set to focus the lens. A press on this button normally focuses the lens more or less immediately and I then only need to focus again if I move or if the subject moves. I mostly use the OVF so I check the distance scale to see if the camera really focused on what I was pointing at. If not, I use the focus ring on the lens. This is fly-by-wire, but for scale focusing (which I am quite practiced act and find quicker) it is fine. None of the winding the ring around several times like folks used to complain about. I only use the focus peaking when I have plenty of time to compose. Then I find it very satisfactory. HTH
 
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