Marrakesh Holiday - advice and suggestions please

[Paul Jenkin]

My wife and I are off to Marrakesh in a few weeks. She's going to do the digi work using the Nikon D700 and I'm shooting film. We're staying in the city in a small Riad - so easy access to Medina and Djemme El Fna. I'm a big bloke and will take flak (and return it) from any locals who don't like cameras - though my opening gambit is always to ask permission first.

I'm looking at taking one body and 3 lenses. Options are:

- Leica M6TTL + 28/50/90
- Mamiya 7 + 43/65/150
- Nikon F3 + 25/50/85

I might just take the longest two of each of those lenses + pack my Ricoh GR1s for wide shots as it's an easy carry and has a fantastic lens.

I'm leaning towards the Nikon just now but would be grateful for any advice from anyone with experience of shooting there.

Thanks.

 

[sircarl]

Well, prepare to get a lot of flak -- especially if you try photographing women. It's just not a culture that welcomes photography, as I found out on two visits to Marrakech. Stick to photographing buildings and you'll be a lot safer.

 

[Jockos]

I was there a few years ago, not doing any photography, but I remember the streets being very narrow so a WA lens might not be a bad idea..

 

[Dirk]

I was in Marrakesh last year, and I echo sircarl in that they don't like to be photographed, especially the people in the souks. I got flipped off a couple of times. Having said that, the souks can be dark and contain some interesting stuff, so fast lenses and maybe a fastish macro lens will be good. And oh, never accept an invitation by rug merchants to "have a cup of tea" in their store. Run! Unless you want to wind up with an overpriced Moroccan rug, that is.

 

[horosu]

Marrakesh is superb, as is Morocco, but you'll have a very frustrating time over there as a photographer. I would suggest taking a 50 mm lens as well as some wide lens: 21/25/28 mm . Anything in between will not help either with people or architercture.

 

[kbg32]

I went to school in Morocco for a summer. I think one would have better experiences from staying away from Marrakech. I know of no one who had great experiences there photographing. Morocco is a great country. I had a great experience photographing. You are a visitor in a Muslim country. Be respectful. Be stealthy. My suggestion would be the Leica and a couple of lenses. My most used were my 28 and 21. The smaller the camera, the better. Leave the digi SLR at home.

http://www.pbase.com/keithbg/morocco

 

[chrismoret]

Traveled Morocco and Marrakesh in 2008 and my experience is that photographing people is possible but difficult. Going around in large, hasty, tourist groups is going to make your life even more difficult.
Go about alone or in a pair. Dress respectful. Act and behave respectful. Men wear no shorts. Women dress conservative and cover legs and shoulders, and have a head-cloth at hand when visiting religious sites. Will be appreciated.
Morocco is a very fascinating country with very friendly, but proud people, but it takes some time to understand all these often hidden rules and customs.
I had a great time over there, and hope to go there again sometime. Have great trip! 🙂

 

[Bobfrance]

Yeah, they don't like it.


Untitled by Bobfrance, on Flickr

It's not as rough as Essex but it's still wise to be quick, stealthy and respectful. 😉

I took an M8 when I went a few years ago. I love my Mamiya 7, but I'd go for an M6 if I owned one. The 28mm and the 90mm lenses will be handy. I found a wide good for fast hyperfocal shooting at close range, but missed having a long lens for framing shots from a safe distance.

You will find, when walking through the Medina, that you'll be walking between shade and bright sunlight a lot, which can make metering tricky. Your Nikon maybe even better if it has a decent meter.

My last piece of advice is take plenty of changes of clothes. The Medina is smelly! I was travelling very light and within a few days everything stunk of offal and faeces and spices.

That said, it's an amazing, electrifying place to visit. Have fun! I needed another holiday when I got home. 🙂




.

 

[faris]

Respect!
Big or small, rich or poor. Visiting any country is a privilege, not a right.
Respect!

Morocco is one of the friendliest countries. And one of the most photogenic countries I have visited.

Enjoy and have a great time.

Oh, and welcome to Marrakesh...

 

[Paul Jenkin]

Cheers guys.

I've been to Morocco once before - Tangiers (which I didn't like) and Chefchaouen (which I loved and will visit again, one day). My wife and I have visited numerous Muslim countries - Qatar, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt (twice), Maldives and my wife spent 4 years of her schooling (late 80's) in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. She speaks a bit of the lingo and I can usually make myself understood.

We're travelling independently of any groups and we are VERY aware of the "invitation for a cup of tea" tactic - as we are of unofficial guides to souks. We're taking a compass and a guide book / map. If we get lost in the souk, the trick is to walk in as straight a line as possible until you hit the outer wall - then walk round the wall until you get to the exit you need to be at. Getting lost is part of the fun.

We intend to spend a fair bit of time sitting in local cafes - inside and outside of the souks and try to engage a few of the locals. Rarely, if ever, do I simply point a camera at someone and start shooting. I don't like it if people point their cameras at me. However, a smile and a "is it okay?" sort of gesture usually helps. Not always, of course, but people are generally friendly by nature.

I've ruled out the Mamiya and it's looking more likely I'll take the Nikon as (a) it's not near as expensive to lose if the worst were to happen and (b) I can share lenses with my wife.

Incidentally, Bobfrance, I couldn't agree more with your comment about Essex. I'm originally from "up north" and only down here due to work. Where I live has got steadily worse over the 13 years I've lived here and it's hard to imagine Marrakesh will be much worse than some of the places we have to visit from time to time.

Faris, you are so right. However, respect is a door that swings in both directions. I am very respectful to those who also respect my right to not feel threatened and intimidated in their country.

 

[Joao]

In my experience, after each photo I took in public places (including the Djma-el-Fna square), several people came out of nowhere asking for money claiming that they have been photographed; the same for shops - one photo to a shop with brass/leather/whatever in the outside, and there you have the owner coming out asking for money. I had some long discussions because of this.
Concerning guides - I found most useful to hire a guide as soon as I arrived; and 1) settle the price for the day before the walk starts 2) reach an agreement about which places, including shops, that I want and I don't want to visit. I did this in several Morroccan cities and I will do it again the next time.
Have a nice trip - it is a fascinating country !
Joao

 

[szekiat]

Contrary to what everyone else's experience was, i had a great time loading up on my vitamin C and shooting when i was there last year. I shot mainly with a M8 and 28mm lens predominantly. Aperture priority makes shooting a million times quicker in the ever changing light. I'd stock up on lots of euro coins or dollar bills as you will invariably get lost in the souks. Thankfully, everyone seems to be a guide of some description.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.515715582488.20226.280700423&type=3&l=43193e3222

 

[monkeypainter]

Visit the jewish quarter and the jewish cementery (at dusk or dawn), south of the medina.

Visit the Jardins Majorelles. Soooo beautiful.

Take a trip to Essaouira, on the coast (like 3 hours ride)... plain GORGEOUS.

Yep, people don't like being photographed. Not at all.

 

[Paul Jenkin]

Thanks for the advice, guys. Decision made. I'm taking my Nikon F3HP with a selection of small primes. I'll be shooting XP2 Super using the Nikon. I'm also taking my Rolleiflex 3.5t with which I'll be shooting Portra 400 (which converts nicely to mono if I want to).

I can't bring myself to take my Leica as I'd be devastated if I lost it, damaged it or had it stolen.

 

[kbg32]

Paul, I went to Morocco in 1980 with 2 M4s, a 21mm, and a 28mm. No problems. I never even thought about it.

 

[Bobfrance]

Have fun Paul and post up some pictures when you return. 🙂

 

[taskoni]

I can't bring myself to take my Leica as I'd be devastated if I lost it, damaged it or had it stolen.

You should take the camera you are most comfortable with - 'nuff said 🙂
You can always find a good opportunities to shoot, don't be stealthy and fast, make a conversation instead, make the people feel comfortable with your presence, ask for permission to take a picture and I am sure you'll bring great shots at home. Enjoy your trip!

 

[Paul Jenkin]

I took the advice and my M6TTL went with me - along with my Rolleiflex 3.5t. In for a penny, in for a pound.

As I'm a naturally gregarious sort of person and can speak a little French, I did my best to engage the locals and get them on-side before I started waving my camera around. The benefit was limited, however, as trying to get good people shots was very hard. One chap said people are a bit more touchy about photos in Marrakesh generally and even moreso during Ramadan.

I've posted a couple of shots in the Gallery if anyone's interestd. I'll put a few more in there once I've done a bit more scanning. Maybe even post a few of the Rolleiflex shots as they're in colour.