Materials for B&W Processing

[andy_leitch]

Hi, first post in a long long time. I've had a scan about this section and haven't really found a definitive list of what I require. I am currently preparing for my first foray into B&W developing and have amassed almost everything I need but am a little confused as to what else I require.

So far I have:

Chemicals

• Paterson Double Tank & Reels
• Film Clips
• Squeegee
• Film Leader Extractor
• Dark Place
• Small Stack of Ilford HP5+
• Ilford Microphen (Powder to make 1 l)
• Ilford Ilfostop (500 ml)
• Ilford Rapid Fixer (Hypam) (500 ml)
• Ilford Ilfotol (1 l)

Other things I require would be:

• Thermometer
• Measuring Cylinders
• Pipette (for Ilfotol)
• Storage Bottles

Is there anything else I am misisng here? As for storage, what is the most economical way of doing it? I'll be storing the chemicals under the kitchen sink. Can I get away with using, thoroughly washed, used drinks containers?

Thanks in advance for the advice. I look forward to posting up my first attempts.

 

[ruby.monkey]

I find that a film canister opener (or even a bottle opener) is much easier to use than a film leader extractor.

A stopwatch and notebook wouldn't go amiss. Also the largest jug you can find, so as to have on hand a sufficient supply of water at the right temperature.

Ilfostop - I have a bottle unopened in the cupboard. Turns out that a water wash works just as well for me.
Ilfotol - measurements aren't exactly critical. I use the measuring spoon from a bottle of Calpol.

 

[andy_leitch]

Yeah, I was going to add timer and scissors to the list.

 

[Peter_Jones]

For stop and fix I use appropriately labelled 500ml Lucozade bottles, squeezed to reduce air. Dev I use one-shot but would use something better for storage of working solution.

I'd strongly recommend some latex gloves to stop your fingers absorbing the smell/taste. Also neg sleeving, and take notes.

 

[Teus]

- don't buy a squeegee, they scratch easily. buy a high quality chamois cloth.
- you can store chemistry in many things. I recommend bottles with rubber seals on the screw caps. using dark bottles is also good, since chemistry dislikes both light and air.
- film clips are overrated and expensive, I use cheap clips for doing the laundry
- see if you can get odorless fixer

 

[djonesii]

I would add a large plastic container to to use as a tempering bath, and I use 4 sparkling water 1 liter bottles for intermediate chemical storage and tempering.

The process goes like this ...

Take the stock chemical out of storage

Fill tempering bath with tap water, and blue gel ice blocks

Mix developer 1:1 ( d76 ) I user water from refrigerator dispenser, put in bottle, bottle in bath

Measure stop, put in bottle, bottle in bath

Measure fix, bottle in bath

Measure hypo, dilute 1:4 in bottle, bottle in bath.

Fill 2 liter pitcher w/ tap water, it too goes in the tempering bath

While chemicals are coming to temperate, I load the reels in a changing bag. for me, this was the simplest dark space to find. I am getting faster at loading reels, and have actually had to wait for the chemicals to stabilize before adding.

I use a presoak of tap water 2 mins

drain, add developer, continuous inversion for 1 min, then 10 sec/min there after. Into old chemical reserve

add stop, 30 seconds continuous agitation, drain, back to stop storage bottle

add fix, 2.5 mins or so, agitate every 10 seconds. ( during this time, I start rinsing the bottles I use for developing ) At 2.5, I open the tank, if clear, 2.5 more mins, if not, 30 seconds, repeat till clear leader. Then double time. I still have fresh fix, so I've never gone past 2.5 mins. Drain, back to reserve

Add hypo. 1.0 min agitate, 10 seconds up to 2 mins hypo into old chemical storage.

Wash 1 tap water, about 2 min agitate every 10, dump, in beaker second rinse w/ 1 drop dish soap, 3 rinse tap water, then a few minutes of running water.

Clips and hang in shower!

The reason that I use a tempering bath is that here in Houston, ambient temp is usaully 85 +, and house temp is 79-80, to get the chemical in the 70 degree range takes a cold water bath.

Dave

 

[drewbarb]

Don't buy or use a squeegee for film- you are much more likely to scratch or otherwise damage your film with one than without. After the final wash, rinse for 30 seconds to a minute in photoflo (or other wetting agent) and then just hang to dry. Don't wipe or squeegee or otherwise touch your film at all after the photoflo. Just let it dry. Do we have to say it again? DON'T SQUEEGEE YOUR FILM (unless you want it scratched...).

 

[Fotohuis]

Well the squeegee is in doubt like always. With a sturdy film it helps to shorten the drying time and drips but it's safer to use the right dose of wetting agent and no squeegee at all.

Scissor (for cutting the film) and a bucket to bring your chemicals on temperature.

The film leader extractor is my point. It's a safe and convenient method for getting out the leader and putting it in a reel. I like it very much and I am doing it already 41 years in this way. (Well most camera's you can select to leaf the leader film out).

For the rest the list is nice complete 🙂

Best regards,

Robert