maybe i don't need a 15?

The 15mm holds a special place for me because it was Tommy Oshima's photographs with it and the Noctilux on the R-D1 which influenced me buying the camera. I also like its angle of view on the cropped sensor. That said, I should use it more.

As for having both the 25mm and 28mm. I have both. In my case, I have the 28mm Ultron which is quite large, and the ltm non-coupled version of the CV 25mm. That lens is very small, can be used without an external viewfinder, and the combo is comfortable for street photography. But again, I should use it more. But I shoot mainly with 35mm, 40mm and 50mm lenses.
 
back alley said:
after looking at the the lcd for a few tries i can guesstimate the rest. but then i do crop after the fact to get what i want in an image.
Click to expand...

That is very useful and easy to do. I also find it helpful to see that many of these lenses are in a progression that multiplies the next lower one by 1.4 (21X1.4 = 29+, close enough to 28, 28x1.4 = 39+ close enough to 40mm, etc.) The significance of 1.4 is that 1.4x1.4 is very nearly 2, so each longer lens in that progression covers exactly half the picture area of the next lower one.

(skip to the Bottom Line line if you don't care about the math):cool:

In terms of avoiding the use of external VF w. longer lenses:
75 is 1.5X50, of course, but approximating with 1.4, means that each longer lens sees only 7/10 of the linear dimension of the next lower (1/1.4).

Using the 50mm frameline, an image area 70% as tall as the height and 70% as long as the width of the frame, fills the image -- ie the frame sees 30% more that is imaged in either direction. That 30% is distributed symmetrically in the frame, which means that you can use the 50mm frame and "cheat in" from each boundary about 15% to approximate very closely what will be in your picture.

A couple of conformation peeks quickly reinforce your estimating ability.

Bottom Line:
Use the 50mm frame for the 75 lens by cheating in 15% from all sides.
Use the 50mm frame for the 90 or 100mm lens by cheating in 25% from all sides.

Easier done than read.

Giorgio
 
pagpow said:
That is very useful and easy to do. I also find it helpful to see that many of these lenses are in a progression that multiplies the next lower one by 1.4 (21X1.4 = 29+, close enough to 28, 28x1.4 = 39+ close enough to 40mm, etc.) The significance of 1.4 is that 1.4x1.4 is very nearly 2, so each longer lens in that progression covers exactly half the picture area of the next lower one.

(skip to the Bottom Line line if you don't care about the math):cool:

In terms of avoiding the use of external VF w. longer lenses:
75 is 1.5X50, of course, but approximating with 1.4, means that each longer lens sees only 7/10 of the linear dimension of the next lower (1/1.4).

Using the 50mm frameline, an image area 70% as tall as the height and 70% as long as the width of the frame, fills the image -- ie the frame sees 30% more that is imaged in either direction. That 30% is distributed symmetrically in the frame, which means that you can use the 50mm frame and "cheat in" from each boundary about 15% to approximate very closely what will be in your picture.

A couple of conformation peeks quickly reinforce your estimating ability.

Bottom Line:
Use the 50mm frame for the 75 lens by cheating in 15% from all sides.
Use the 50mm frame for the 90 or 100mm lens by cheating in 25% from all sides.

Easier done than read.

Giorgio
Click to expand...


cool!
who knew i was that smart!?
:p
 
back alley said:
i was out yesterday and shooting with the 21 and it pretty much did what i needed it to do...very similar sort of point and shoot set up as with the 15.
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There's a huge difference in the angle of view between those two. I prefer having something wider than 21 for the R-D1, although I usually put my 15 on the Bessa. I don't use the 21 on the R-D1 at all.

For me personally, the big difference between these focal lengths (on R-D1) is framing. I generally need framelines for the 30mm+ equivalent angle of view. Of course, this depends very much on the application. When going closer to 20mm equivalent or even wider, I don't really need framelines at all 99% of the time. As long as I have some experience using the lens anyway. It takes some time to learn a new focal length, since I deal with three different crops (film, M8, R-D1). That's one of the reasons I'm not using the 21 on the R-D1.
 
kshapero said:
That is strange to me. I find wide angles on a Rangefinder so much more pleasant to use than on a (D)SLR.
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I just don't like accessory finders. They make the shape of the camera awkward, to me--hard to slip in and out of my bag. And framing always seems imprecise to me. I always did love the images from the 15 though.

back alley said:
28, 35 and 50 on your m8?
Click to expand...

Yes! Presently, the Zeiss Biogon 28, Canon 35/1.8 and Nokton 35/1.2, CZ Sonnar 50/1.5 with Amedeo adapter and a nice Summar.
 
when I use the 21mm on the R-D1 i pick the 50mm framelines and imagine it as being the central rectangle of a 9 rectangle field of view. Then I shoot with both eyes opened and use the frameline as a guide to estimate what the 21mm will cover. works like a charm.
 
umcelinho said:
when I use the 21mm on the R-D1 i pick the 50mm framelines and imagine it as being the central rectangle of a 9 rectangle field of view. Then I shoot with both eyes opened and use the frameline as a guide to estimate what the 21mm will cover. works like a charm.
Click to expand...
most creative:)
 
I see no reason not to get it... you want it, it's relatively cheap, and you are used to using many focal lengths.
 
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