John Bragg
Well-known
Hi all. For what seems an eternity I have had a pair of OM1n cameras with an OM Winder 2 on each. It is a combination that I find pleasing ergonomically, and it is how I like to use them. I also have a Nikon FM2n and I have always used MK1 Thumb Drive on it. I have been tempted to seek out a near mint MD12 but I am doubting my sanity in this respect, as it is not compact by any stretch of the imagination. Should I keep the Nikon sleek and discrete, or add a kick ass motor drive? Thanks in advance (pun alert) for your input.
Nikon FM2n by E.J. Bragg, on Flickr
Nikon FM2n by E.J. Bragg, on Flickr
B-9
Devin Bro
MD12 all the way.
rulnacco
Well-known
I've got an MD-12 for my FE. It can be a bit temperamental--usually, placing a quarter over the four terminals on the drive will get it to cycle and into the correct position before mounting it--but I really like it. It gives the camera a bit of balance with longer/heavier lenses.
And it really lets you get your old-school photojournalist groove on, lol. It is *loud* and features a peremptory metallic clunk and whirr.
It doesn't add a ton of mass or volume to the camera, it's actually relatively svelte compared to putting a battery pack/vertical grip on a current Nikon DSLR. The grip on it is ergonomically helpful for vertical shots, and I quite like it in general. There is also an accessory shutter release button that you can plug into the motor drive for portrait shots. Which I have one of, but frankly I wouldn't recommend it--it sticks out quite a bit from the grip, and is really far more awkward to use than the built-in shutter button on the motor drive when shooting in portrait orientation.
Another advantage of using the motor drive is that you don't have to pull the film advance lever out to turn the camera on--so if you're left-eyed, you won't be poking yourself in the right eye with that if you use the MD-12.
They're pretty much dirt cheap nowadays (although of course mint will cost you more, most of them will show wear I'd think, given their age), so you really won't be out anything if you buy one and decide it doesn't suit you.
So, ultimate recommendation: absolute yes! Buy one and give it a go. If you don't get on with it, you'll be able to sell it for as much or more than you paid for it. But I think there will be occasions you'll be very happy you've got it, even if you don't want to walk around all the time with it attached.
And it really lets you get your old-school photojournalist groove on, lol. It is *loud* and features a peremptory metallic clunk and whirr.
It doesn't add a ton of mass or volume to the camera, it's actually relatively svelte compared to putting a battery pack/vertical grip on a current Nikon DSLR. The grip on it is ergonomically helpful for vertical shots, and I quite like it in general. There is also an accessory shutter release button that you can plug into the motor drive for portrait shots. Which I have one of, but frankly I wouldn't recommend it--it sticks out quite a bit from the grip, and is really far more awkward to use than the built-in shutter button on the motor drive when shooting in portrait orientation.
Another advantage of using the motor drive is that you don't have to pull the film advance lever out to turn the camera on--so if you're left-eyed, you won't be poking yourself in the right eye with that if you use the MD-12.
They're pretty much dirt cheap nowadays (although of course mint will cost you more, most of them will show wear I'd think, given their age), so you really won't be out anything if you buy one and decide it doesn't suit you.
So, ultimate recommendation: absolute yes! Buy one and give it a go. If you don't get on with it, you'll be able to sell it for as much or more than you paid for it. But I think there will be occasions you'll be very happy you've got it, even if you don't want to walk around all the time with it attached.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
I can't use my FM2N without the MD-12 because the self timer lever hits my knuckle when I hold it naked. The MD-12 fixes that issue and makes the camera much easier for me to hold.
Years ago someone used to sell a "softee" that glued onto a flat shutter release button like the one on the MD-12. I got one and it made the MD-12 even more comfortable to use.
My only complaint (I'm such a whiner) is what rulnacco mentioned, it can be temperamental. When I used to use it on assignments with my F4s, it would jam between rolls about every 10th roll, which gets really frustrating if you're in the middle of the action.
Otherwise, highly recommend.
Best,
-Tim
Years ago someone used to sell a "softee" that glued onto a flat shutter release button like the one on the MD-12. I got one and it made the MD-12 even more comfortable to use.
My only complaint (I'm such a whiner) is what rulnacco mentioned, it can be temperamental. When I used to use it on assignments with my F4s, it would jam between rolls about every 10th roll, which gets really frustrating if you're in the middle of the action.
Otherwise, highly recommend.
Best,
-Tim
Huss
Veteran
The MD12 gives that awesome Duran Duran "Girls on Film" motordrive sound.
It makes a small camera big, but it is great if you are using bigger lenses, or just want to get your motor groove on.
It makes a small camera big, but it is great if you are using bigger lenses, or just want to get your motor groove on.
John Bragg
Well-known
Thanks for the replies folks. I am indeed not averse to that Duran Duran MD sound and I think that overall handling would be improved. There is however a world between what we want and what we need. I have other cameras for speed, but I think the MD12 is such a nicely sculpted piece of harware that I may just have to let wants win over needs.
B-9
Devin Bro
Doooo it John!
YOLO. Cheap Joy.
Also the MD-11 is not so bad if the price is right!
YOLO. Cheap Joy.
Also the MD-11 is not so bad if the price is right!
rulnacco
Well-known
The MD-11 is almost the same as the MD-12. With one crucial exception that makes the MD-12 the way to go: the MD-12 has automatic shutoff, which the MD-11 does not. So if you forget to turn off the switch, the MD-12 will preserve your batteries, whereas with the MD-11, the meter will continue to drain, if ever so slowly, your batteries. There's a slight difference in the film advance, too. Here's what mir.com says about the differences:
Great to see lots of MD-12 love here. It really does add to the fun factor of using Nikon's great small cameras--without bulking them up too much. And unlike, say, an F5, you can take the motor drive off and get the traditional experience and compact form factor.
So really, buying one (that works)--at the prices they are going for today (you can easily find them for just over 20 bucks)--is a no brainer. Once you get one, you'll find out that you did indeed need it, lol. It's a must have!
Great to see lots of MD-12 love here. It really does add to the fun factor of using Nikon's great small cameras--without bulking them up too much. And unlike, say, an F5, you can take the motor drive off and get the traditional experience and compact form factor.
So really, buying one (that works)--at the prices they are going for today (you can easily find them for just over 20 bucks)--is a no brainer. Once you get one, you'll find out that you did indeed need it, lol. It's a must have!
css9450
Veteran
It's been awhile, but if I remember right, the MD11 had more metal in its grip than the MD12... A friend of mine had a well-used MD11 and it was starting to show bare metal where the paint had worn away, but mine was plastic there. I'll have to check mine again... I have two of them, the second of which came to me as a freebie!
By the way, I think the "jamming" issue usually stems from trying to coax one more frame out of a roll. It freezes the winder in mid-frame while the camera gets re-set when you load the new roll. The end result was a jam. Stop faithfully at 36 every time and you should have no jams.
By the way, I think the "jamming" issue usually stems from trying to coax one more frame out of a roll. It freezes the winder in mid-frame while the camera gets re-set when you load the new roll. The end result was a jam. Stop faithfully at 36 every time and you should have no jams.
rulnacco
Well-known
Ohhhh, and one other thing: if you really want to pimp your FM/FE series Nikon--I know this works with the FEs, because I've done it to both of mine, and I think it works with the FMs (at least the later ones), too--is find you a K3 screen that was designed for the FM3a. It's much brighter and smoother in texture, and for me it makes viewing and focusing way better. Some people say you need to dial in exposure compensation--and for transparency film you might indeed need to--but I tend to overexpose negative film anyway, so I've not noticed a huge difference. (I will get around one day, when I have the chance to use my FEs--I have a chrome and a black--more, I'll calibrate them.)
Also, I've got Gordy straps on mine (https://gordyscamerastraps.com). They're very stylish, reasonably priced, and are just the right size, it feels to me, for the FM/FE series, with or without the MD-12 attached.
Also, I've got Gordy straps on mine (https://gordyscamerastraps.com). They're very stylish, reasonably priced, and are just the right size, it feels to me, for the FM/FE series, with or without the MD-12 attached.
randy stewart
Established
Md-12
Md-12
I bought a new FM and MB-11 when they first came out. I traded "up" several times, ending up with an FE2 and an MD-12, which I still have today. Between the MD-11 and MD-12, you go for the MD-12. It incorporates several control features, the best being control of the camera electronic from the MD-12, using the MD-12 to power the camera.
That said, whether to buy an MD-12 (assuming you want a rational reason to acquire?) depends on its use. I used mine primarily to shoot speeding steam locomotives from 30 - 100 feet. You get there early, set up, frame your composition and wait for a locomotive to steam though the scene. Then, you hop in the car, scream down the road, and do it again.
If you do not need to shoot sequences, I depart from other commentators, who seem to suggest the use of the MD-12 because it's cool or somehow adds to the normal experience. IMO it does not add to the normal usage of the camera. It is heavy, probably doubles the wright of the package, mainly for the many AA cells required. The camera/drive package is tall, so it tends to tip over easily, unless you are holding it up with an attached lens. In casual use, the drive adds nothing to the normal function of the camera. In short, I do not see you using the drive unless required for a specific purpose, and to attach it just to haul it around and show off is .. gaudy.
Md-12
I bought a new FM and MB-11 when they first came out. I traded "up" several times, ending up with an FE2 and an MD-12, which I still have today. Between the MD-11 and MD-12, you go for the MD-12. It incorporates several control features, the best being control of the camera electronic from the MD-12, using the MD-12 to power the camera.
That said, whether to buy an MD-12 (assuming you want a rational reason to acquire?) depends on its use. I used mine primarily to shoot speeding steam locomotives from 30 - 100 feet. You get there early, set up, frame your composition and wait for a locomotive to steam though the scene. Then, you hop in the car, scream down the road, and do it again.
If you do not need to shoot sequences, I depart from other commentators, who seem to suggest the use of the MD-12 because it's cool or somehow adds to the normal experience. IMO it does not add to the normal usage of the camera. It is heavy, probably doubles the wright of the package, mainly for the many AA cells required. The camera/drive package is tall, so it tends to tip over easily, unless you are holding it up with an attached lens. In casual use, the drive adds nothing to the normal function of the camera. In short, I do not see you using the drive unless required for a specific purpose, and to attach it just to haul it around and show off is .. gaudy.
John Bragg
Well-known
Great reply Randy. Just the sort I am looking for. I have seen a mint- one going for £69 and I wouldn't want a beaten up one to pair with my camera, but a lightly used one may be fine. If I really need a sequence of shots I will use my F5 on maximum ! I also like to use drives and winders to be in a more prepared state when taking portraits, although not an absolute essential. Jane Bown did alright without one.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
I have owned both and the MD-12 is the way to go.
Chris
Chris
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
The FM FE are a great camera/body style. Because of the small camera size, I never really bonded with feel with the motordrive. Then again I found the F4 grip too big and awkward to hold. My personal favourites with Nikons was the F with F36 and the F3 w the MD4. Best of luck with it.
rulnacco
Well-known
You don't use an MD-12 *just* for bling--there *are* a few practical, beneficial (if somewhat minor) effects. For one the added weight of it does provide a little extra inertia to the camera (simple physics, really) and the grip does allow, I believe, a somewhat more stable grip. So I really do think it can reduce camera shake in some situations. All the vibrations, etc., from the motor advance come only *after* the exposure.
I *don't* ever use mine in continuous mode; it's really not got nearly high enough a frame rate for that. But if I'm shooting, particularly something that's moving, and don't want the brief distraction of advancing the film, the motor drive does help maintain locked-in concentration on the subject.
You *won't* want to use it all the time, as it does make the camera bigger and heavier, and most of the time--if you've chosen an FM/FE for its compactness--you won't want that. But it *can* be useful in specific situations. And yes, it does make the camera a little more *fun*. If you're not trying to incorporate that into your photography, at least on occasion, what are you shooting for?
I *don't* ever use mine in continuous mode; it's really not got nearly high enough a frame rate for that. But if I'm shooting, particularly something that's moving, and don't want the brief distraction of advancing the film, the motor drive does help maintain locked-in concentration on the subject.
You *won't* want to use it all the time, as it does make the camera bigger and heavier, and most of the time--if you've chosen an FM/FE for its compactness--you won't want that. But it *can* be useful in specific situations. And yes, it does make the camera a little more *fun*. If you're not trying to incorporate that into your photography, at least on occasion, what are you shooting for?
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I like to shoot my FE2s with an MD12. Even when I don't need the speed (actually I never do) but it adds weight and stability and grip, and I don't have to take it down from my eye to wind it. It is fussy when I first install it. It may not work on the first try. I usually have to loosen it, jiggle, retighten and try again. The answer is to never take it off. Once you get it right, leave it on.
Huss
Veteran
Sometimes I use it without batteries as I just want it as a grip.
All the weight is in the batteries.
All the weight is in the batteries.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
I'm confused, or maybe my MD-12 is just broken. I've got an FM2N bought new in 1996 with an MD-12 bought used in 1999. My MD-12 will not power my FM2N meter. I still need to put the meter batteries in the FM2N to get the meter LED's to work.
Are some of you saying that your MD-12 will power the meter circuit in your FM2?
Best,
-Tim
Are some of you saying that your MD-12 will power the meter circuit in your FM2?
Best,
-Tim
Timmyjoe
Veteran
You're probably right on this. I get lazy when shooting the film Nikons with motor drives and don't keep track of which frame I'm on, just waiting for the camera to tell me when it hits the end of a roll. That's probably what jams up my FM2N & MD-12.
Best,
-Tim
Huss
Veteran
I don't think it powers the camera's meter. At least it does not with mine.
According to:
https://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/md12/index.htm
The trigger button behaves exactly like the camera, light depress to activate the meter and turn off after 60 seconds of inactivity to conserve power, besides, it has a single mode or continuous mode for rapid sequential power advance
The motordrive on my F3 (MD4?) does provide power to the camera's meter.