Meter Recommendation?

[brians]

That shouldn't be a problem. The only thing "non ghetto" about a commercial hand-held meter is the scale on the dial, the calculation wheels, and the packaging. Essentially they are just a CDs cell, a meter and a battery. At my previous employment they cobbled one up in the engineering workshop for use with an animation camera. It was the first meter with a battery I ever saw. It had the cell on a stick. It was meant to be temporary but it stayed in service for about twenty years.

Ooh, I see. Yeah, I showed him the electrical diagram included inside the http://www.marquis-kyle.com.au/lunasix12.htm and he said it was very basic. (I'm less of the science person.) Anyway, knowing him, I think he might house it in cardboard or some kind of cheap, yet durable case. I'm kind of hoping it's a giant lump of ducttape, an altoids tin or a cigarette pack.

But sure, if you'd like to see it, I'll be willing to post it up. I'm not sure when he'll be able to finish it, as classes start in 2 weeks.

 

[reagan]

I'm kind of hoping it's a giant lump of ducttape, an altoids tin or a cigarette pack.

A good commrade after my own heart.

 

[wyk_penguin]

IMHO, a meter should:
1. be accurate
2. have incident and reflective settings
3. be accurate most of the time

FSU meters satisfy none of the above.
Guesstimation on the other hand satisfies all of the above.

 

[varjag]

Sverdlovsk-4 is an accurate incident/reflective meter, unless your sample is broken (and it happens with all vintage equipment regardless of origin).

I use sunny 16 most of the time myself, but meters do have their place.

 

[kiev4a]

I have a couple of FSU meters--both were sent to me as "bonus" items when I bought a camera. A Leningrad 2 and a Servedorsk 2. That's about what they are worth. Besides, they are set up for the Soviet gost exposure system. My favorite meter is my old Sekonic Autoleader 3. If I get really serious I have my Gossen Lina Pro.

 

[varjag]

Well, I've tried a couple of S-4s, both appeared accurate (checked against partial metering in my digicam). Export models have the scale marked in ASA, and all models I believe have DIN scale. They are basic, no-frills devices, but they do their job of measuring available light and still sell for $10-15 here (while many other old meters indeed can be had for next to nothing). Some details are at Alfred's camera page: http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/sverdlovsk4/

 

[Mark Wood]

I'd echo the comments about the Weston Master V. With an Invercone (which will drop off when you least expect it!), they may not be the most sensitive but get a well-preserved one and they're just incredibly reliable and accurate. In fact amost 50 years on, my father's Weston Master II is still spot on, the only annoying problem being its lack of needle lock.
I've tried a Gossen Digisix but mine over reads by 0.3 to 0.5 stops in incident mode and on a sunny day, I find myself holding it at different angles and taking the reading again until I get the f16 result I should have - that defeats the object of a meter I suppose! I guess a dome is just not as good as the Invercone (as Roger Hicks has pointed out in his excellent book on "exposure").
Recently, I've found that at a sensible price, the basic Polaris meter is very accurate, even in incident mode and it has the added advantage of flash metering and a fairly cheap 10° spot attachment.

 

[dexdog]

I have a number of selenium meters, including a Norwood Director, an Ikophot, a Sekonic, and a Weston Master II, and all will read within about 1/3 stop from the meter in my Canon digital. I also have a Gossen Digisix, but don't use it much because I think it is clumsy to operate, and it is too easy to hit the wrong button and end up scrolling the one-way menus. With the exception of the Norwood, all of these meters came as extras in camera packages I have bought at auctions over the years. My favorite, for its light weight and small size, is the Sekonic. I have shot many rolls of film with this meter, and while it gives more accurate readings in reflected mode than in incident mode, it is still more than adequate. If I am unsure whether to trust the incident reading, I'll just bracket the shot. The next-favorite is the Weston. This meter weighs quite a bit, but gives great readings, and comes in a spiffy leather case. I like the retro looks of this ancient meter. The Ikophot is very nice, but IMHO, is not as easy to use as the sekonic or Weston. Also capable of incident metering.

 

[stet]

I just bought a Polaris exposure/flash meter (great deal at the FLCS, $80 used), but I keep a book in my camera bag and in it is a printout of the table here:

http://www.pinkheadedbug.com/techniques/exposure.html

this has worked pretty well for me so far. That and "trying to recognize" qualities of light, gauging by hard/soft/nonexistent shadows.

 

[oftheherd]

I have a couple of FSU meters--both were sent to me as "bonus" items when I bought a camera. A Leningrad 2 and a Servedorsk 2. That's about what they are worth. Besides, they are set up for the Soviet gost exposure system. My favorite meter is my old Sekonic Autoleader 3. If I get really serious I have my Gossen Lina Pro.

The first light meter I bought myself was a Sekonic Micro-Leader. Actually a rather good little meter, that could be used one handed, and although not intended to be, was pretty good in low light. The next was a Sekonic L28c2, which didn't require batteries and was surprisingly good in lower light for being a selinium meter. It was also smallish considering.

I love my Gossen Luna Pro and Luna Pro SBC. Accurate, as low light as you want, and especially the SBC is a system meter. The spot attachment and flash attachment work well. They aren't as compact as newer models that combine all that, of course. But for low light, they both work very well. Oh, they both work in bright light too. 😛

I keep mentioning low light, because that used to be a favorite of mine. I still find myself looking at potential low light shots and thinking about shutter speeds and f/stops. Some day.

Brians - Sounds like you started this thread wanting a Russian meter. If so, go for it. I think you would be better off with something different, but I guess truthfully, that is because I am sure I would be better off with something different, like my Gossens or Sekonics. If you want that to match your cameras, why not? Good luck in your decision.

 

[brians]

Brians - Sounds like you started this thread wanting a Russian meter. If so, go for it. I think you would be better off with something different, but I guess truthfully, that is because I am sure I would be better off with something different, like my Gossens or Sekonics. If you want that to match your cameras, why not? Good luck in your decision.

Yeah, I initially wanted to buy one because of its sheer cheapness compared to the $50~300 dollar counterparts. I wasn't really looking toward selenium, but after reading your replies, I think it makes sense.

Kuvvy was kind enough to mail me his Leningrad meter, so I'll see if any kind of symbiotic relationship happens with me and the old selenium FSU meter, but if not, I'll definitely look to invest some money in a Gossen or Sekonic. I am still a bit "entry-level" but after looking at my total spent on camera stuff, I could have afforded a decently used Leica IIIf. Oh poo.

 

[John Robertson]

I have two Lenigrad 4 meters, one I bought new a very long time ago, another I bought in a charity shop for £1. Both are still perfectly reliable and accurate. They are far better than their simple apearance would have you believe, and they don't need batteries.