maddoc
... likes film again.
Just wonder .... Are M3s/M2s that cheaper than a (used) M6 ? At least here in Japan, a non-pristine M3 goes usually for ~ 10 - 20 % more compared to a M6. If I add the cost for a CLA and maybe replacement of the shutter - curtains it will get quite expensive using a M3 ...
stupid_john
Newbie
Thanks for the input from other RFFers.
The discussion help me a lot.
1. It seems that a meterless M is not as difficult to use as I thought.
At least, it is still a user camera for many guys here. Not merely an
collection item put in a cabinet.
2. The use of built-in meter vs. handheld meter is so interesting.
I also found that the built-in meter of my R2 confused me a lot.
I need to check the meter more than when i am using other
mechanical cameras. The R2 meter sometimes does not response
to the changes in aperture/shutter speed. So, sometines, i simply
wait a few seconds and then pre-press the shutter button again to
check the expossure or simply guess the exposure if i don't want
to wait. Maybe, I need to send the R2 to the dealer for checking.
One has to juggle between, focusing, adjusting exposure, checking meter,
composing......Oh..... just too much for me.
I am afraid that using a meterless M will increase the hassles for taking photos.
Maybe, I can try to use R2 with the Sekonic 300B to see if I can manage the
photo taking process. If so, I think that I can manage a meterless M well.
3. Regarding the choice of M2, M3 or M6 is a tough question.
Yes, I cannot plug my 35mm Summicron directly on an M3.
This is a draw back of an M3. But it is good for my 50mm DR.
Here in Hong Kong, M2 is the cheapest. M3 (a classic) is pricier than M2.
M2 and M3 usually cost about US$700~900. M6 costs about US$1100~1300.
Curently, there is an excellent M3 selling for $700 while a black M6 in similar
condition is selling at over $1200. The meter costs me $500!!!
As someone already pointed out, if I buy a M3 now,
I may also buy a M6 eventually. Or, maybe not.
If I buy the M6 first, I may or may not buy an M3.
Who knows.
The discussion help me a lot.
1. It seems that a meterless M is not as difficult to use as I thought.
At least, it is still a user camera for many guys here. Not merely an
collection item put in a cabinet.
2. The use of built-in meter vs. handheld meter is so interesting.
I also found that the built-in meter of my R2 confused me a lot.
I need to check the meter more than when i am using other
mechanical cameras. The R2 meter sometimes does not response
to the changes in aperture/shutter speed. So, sometines, i simply
wait a few seconds and then pre-press the shutter button again to
check the expossure or simply guess the exposure if i don't want
to wait. Maybe, I need to send the R2 to the dealer for checking.
One has to juggle between, focusing, adjusting exposure, checking meter,
composing......Oh..... just too much for me.
I am afraid that using a meterless M will increase the hassles for taking photos.
Maybe, I can try to use R2 with the Sekonic 300B to see if I can manage the
photo taking process. If so, I think that I can manage a meterless M well.
3. Regarding the choice of M2, M3 or M6 is a tough question.
Yes, I cannot plug my 35mm Summicron directly on an M3.
This is a draw back of an M3. But it is good for my 50mm DR.
Here in Hong Kong, M2 is the cheapest. M3 (a classic) is pricier than M2.
M2 and M3 usually cost about US$700~900. M6 costs about US$1100~1300.
Curently, there is an excellent M3 selling for $700 while a black M6 in similar
condition is selling at over $1200. The meter costs me $500!!!
As someone already pointed out, if I buy a M3 now,
I may also buy a M6 eventually. Or, maybe not.
If I buy the M6 first, I may or may not buy an M3.
Who knows.
georges h
Newbie
A M6, of course , you can work very quicklyhaagen_dazs said:
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
It's not only the meter that costs $500, it's a lot of added conveniences like loading film without fiddling with spools, 28 and 35mm framelines, a hot shoe and a rewind crank, and most important of all it's the 40 or so years that the camera is younger. I'd say that does make a difference, even with Leicas. I would buy an M6.
However, don't discard the M5, I paid $650 for mine and the meter is quite good.
drewbarb
picnic like it's 1999
stupid_john said:Thanks for the input from other RFFers.
The discussion help me a lot.
1. It seems that a meterless M is not as difficult to use as I thought.
At least, it is still a user camera for many guys here. Not merely an
collection item put in a cabinet.
2. The use of built-in meter vs. handheld meter is so interesting.
I also found that the built-in meter of my R2 confused me a lot.
I need to check the meter more than when i am using other
mechanical cameras. The R2 meter sometimes does not response
to the changes in aperture/shutter speed. So, sometines, i simply
wait a few seconds and then pre-press the shutter button again to
check the expossure or simply guess the exposure if i don't want
to wait. Maybe, I need to send the R2 to the dealer for checking.
One has to juggle between, focusing, adjusting exposure, checking meter,
composing......Oh..... just too much for me.
I am afraid that using a meterless M will increase the hassles for taking photos.
Maybe, I can try to use R2 with the Sekonic 300B to see if I can manage the
photo taking process. If so, I think that I can manage a meterless M well.
3. Regarding the choice of M2, M3 or M6 is a tough question.
Yes, I cannot plug my 35mm Summicron directly on an M3.
This is a draw back of an M3. But it is good for my 50mm DR.
Here in Hong Kong, M2 is the cheapest. M3 (a classic) is pricier than M2.
M2 and M3 usually cost about US$700~900. M6 costs about US$1100~1300.
Curently, there is an excellent M3 selling for $700 while a black M6 in similar
condition is selling at over $1200. The meter costs me $500!!!
As someone already pointed out, if I buy a M3 now,
I may also buy a M6 eventually. Or, maybe not.
If I buy the M6 first, I may or may not buy an M3.
Who knows.
John- I think you have a really good idea here- try pulling the battery out of your R2 and shoot with it for a while with the handheld meter (your Sekonic 308B is perfect for this). See if you can get comfortable with shooting without a meter in the camera. It sounds like your R2 meter is not that helpful, anyway. If you are shooting negatives, you should find that in constant light, you need to take a couple of readings, know your highlight and shadow exposures, put the meter away and just shoot, adjusting as needed by learing to trust your eye. You may find that in fast situations, you are shooting first, then checking your meter to make sure you are right with your settings.
If working like this works for you (and I bet it will- anyone can learn to shoot this way), then the M2 or M3 should be yoru next camera. If you just don't like it, get the M6. You really can't go wrong- and as you say, you may very well end up with more than one of these in the long run anyway.
I think it was Frank who suggested that you let your lens choice guide you to the right body, in terms of finder magnification. This is good advice. So is his idea to look around and let the right camera find you. Good luck!