David Kieltyka
Clicking away feverishly
RSE is great. I'm using it for the majority of my R-D1 photos. Among other things it does a good job of mapping out hot pixels.
I still prefer PhotoRAW's b&w conversions, though. I wish RSE had Sunny, Cloudy, Incandescent, etc. color balance presets too. I like to use them in other apps, like PhotoRAW, as jumping off points.
-Dave-
-Dave-
pfogle
Well-known
David - good point about the b/w - I also like the PhotoRAW jobs. The noise turns into great grain!
I love RSE's browser, though.
I love RSE's browser, though.
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
pfogle said:I just tried Sean's advice about the shadow and hightlight points in PhotoRaw, and it's pretty amazing what you can do.
However, I shot the street backlit at sunset at ISO 400, and found using RSE...
...Shot on the CV 21mm at f8. The one on the left is EPR, the one on the right is RSE
I can figure out that EPR is an abbreviation for Epson Photo Raw (I assume this is the Windows-only standalone application.)
But what is RSE?
DaShiv
21st century digital boy
RawShooter Essentials, a free RAW converter. Here's a writeup.
sevres_babylone
Veteran
I thought Michael Reichmann’s review which isn’t a review was quite fair. I think that he makes it clear where he is coming from, and that puts his thoughts into perspective.
I should indicate where I am coming from. I have never owned a digital SLR. My sole digital experience was with a Nikon 3500 and was not a happy one. The only SLR system I have used has been Olympus OM, which I have used for nearly 30 years. I shoot mostly when I travel, and after that, my main subjects are bands in dimly lit clubs, and some modern dance. My “kit” has generally been a 40mm or 50mm along with either the 85mm F2 or 100 2.8. While many of you may have been waiting for a digital M, all I ever wanted was a digital OM. When I first read about the R D1, I was attracted by its size.
I do have some rangefinder experience with my Mamiya 7 and my XA; but in terms of focusing, I would have described myself as an SLR person.
I have had my R-D1 for one month now. In that time I have shot a few bands, and just got back Thursday from two days in Havana and nine in Els Salvador. I shot a bit of “dance” at the outdoor Rhumba and at the Tropicana, both in Havana.
Ergonomics: I have been really pleased with the handling of the R-D1, even if the shutter speed dial is where everyone except Olympus put it. I haven’t found using the R-D1 to be a “funky experience.” My Mamiya experience may be a factor here, but I would say that I am more comfortable focusing the R-D1 than the Mamiya 7. Focusing in low light has been a revelation, and has been more accurate for me than with my Olympus. Someone coming from an autofocus SLR system might have a different experience. I don’t know.
Framing: I wear thick glasses. I was aware of the 28mm framing issue before I bought the camera. I bought it eyes wide open, which is for me, a position in which I can see slightly better than eyes closed tight. I have been using two Voigtlander lenses, the 35 2.5 pancake II and the 50 Nokton. Framing with the 50mm is wonderful. I actually have been having some trouble with the 35mm lines -- not enough to make me regret my purchase, but problems none the less. For some reason, I do better at night with my framing. I have had trouble with “architectural” lines, using the 35mm frame lines. This is not new for me, but has been worse than with my other cameras. For some reason, I do better in portrait mode. The only (slight) consolation, is that I can see the results quickly, and re shoot, rather than a few weeks and a few thousands of miles later.
Controls: I disagree with Reichmann’s comments regarding the ISO dial. As he pointed out in his Canon 300D review, with digital cameras ISO becomes a third and equal partner to F-stop and shutter speed. I think the R-D1 implementation is wonderful. I guess it depends on where you are coming from in terms of readability, but I find its readability no worse than on my OM-4T or the XA. But you don’t really have to read it. There are no intermediate settings. Just 200, 400, 800, 1600. The dials clicks nicely, and I find it easy to set by feel.
I like the analogue dials. More than I thought I would. I need to learn more about the white balance settings though. As for the the frame line setting, my experience is differerent from Reichmann’s. I have accidentally changed the setting while getting the camera out of my Domke 803.
Wind lever and battery: I put both together, because if the wind lever really helps battery life, than it is a useful if not necessary feature. If not, I could do without it. I have missed some shots. But I agree with Reichmann that the battery life is very disappointing. I was glad to have have bought a third battery the day before my trip. It doesn’t help that the included charger only allows you to charge one battery at a time.
I can’t comment on digital functions, because I have no point of comparison.
Image Quality: My point of comparison is with film, and I am a fan of low light. Before my conversion, my film of choice was NPZ, shot at 1250 and pushed one stop. Although I have made only a few prints, I have been pleased with the results from the R-D1 at 1600. And I don’t miss the scanning and spotting.
I hope this is helpful to anyone thinking of going the R-D1 route.
I should indicate where I am coming from. I have never owned a digital SLR. My sole digital experience was with a Nikon 3500 and was not a happy one. The only SLR system I have used has been Olympus OM, which I have used for nearly 30 years. I shoot mostly when I travel, and after that, my main subjects are bands in dimly lit clubs, and some modern dance. My “kit” has generally been a 40mm or 50mm along with either the 85mm F2 or 100 2.8. While many of you may have been waiting for a digital M, all I ever wanted was a digital OM. When I first read about the R D1, I was attracted by its size.
I do have some rangefinder experience with my Mamiya 7 and my XA; but in terms of focusing, I would have described myself as an SLR person.
I have had my R-D1 for one month now. In that time I have shot a few bands, and just got back Thursday from two days in Havana and nine in Els Salvador. I shot a bit of “dance” at the outdoor Rhumba and at the Tropicana, both in Havana.
Ergonomics: I have been really pleased with the handling of the R-D1, even if the shutter speed dial is where everyone except Olympus put it. I haven’t found using the R-D1 to be a “funky experience.” My Mamiya experience may be a factor here, but I would say that I am more comfortable focusing the R-D1 than the Mamiya 7. Focusing in low light has been a revelation, and has been more accurate for me than with my Olympus. Someone coming from an autofocus SLR system might have a different experience. I don’t know.
Framing: I wear thick glasses. I was aware of the 28mm framing issue before I bought the camera. I bought it eyes wide open, which is for me, a position in which I can see slightly better than eyes closed tight. I have been using two Voigtlander lenses, the 35 2.5 pancake II and the 50 Nokton. Framing with the 50mm is wonderful. I actually have been having some trouble with the 35mm lines -- not enough to make me regret my purchase, but problems none the less. For some reason, I do better at night with my framing. I have had trouble with “architectural” lines, using the 35mm frame lines. This is not new for me, but has been worse than with my other cameras. For some reason, I do better in portrait mode. The only (slight) consolation, is that I can see the results quickly, and re shoot, rather than a few weeks and a few thousands of miles later.
Controls: I disagree with Reichmann’s comments regarding the ISO dial. As he pointed out in his Canon 300D review, with digital cameras ISO becomes a third and equal partner to F-stop and shutter speed. I think the R-D1 implementation is wonderful. I guess it depends on where you are coming from in terms of readability, but I find its readability no worse than on my OM-4T or the XA. But you don’t really have to read it. There are no intermediate settings. Just 200, 400, 800, 1600. The dials clicks nicely, and I find it easy to set by feel.
I like the analogue dials. More than I thought I would. I need to learn more about the white balance settings though. As for the the frame line setting, my experience is differerent from Reichmann’s. I have accidentally changed the setting while getting the camera out of my Domke 803.
Wind lever and battery: I put both together, because if the wind lever really helps battery life, than it is a useful if not necessary feature. If not, I could do without it. I have missed some shots. But I agree with Reichmann that the battery life is very disappointing. I was glad to have have bought a third battery the day before my trip. It doesn’t help that the included charger only allows you to charge one battery at a time.
I can’t comment on digital functions, because I have no point of comparison.
Image Quality: My point of comparison is with film, and I am a fan of low light. Before my conversion, my film of choice was NPZ, shot at 1250 and pushed one stop. Although I have made only a few prints, I have been pleased with the results from the R-D1 at 1600. And I don’t miss the scanning and spotting.
I hope this is helpful to anyone thinking of going the R-D1 route.
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
DaShiv said:RawShooter Essentials, a free RAW converter. Here's a writeup.
Thanks for the clarification. Looks nice
David Kieltyka
Clicking away feverishly
jlw said:Thanks for the clarification. Looks niceWindows only :bang:
Yes, this bites. I've been using PhotoRAW on my PC as well, though, because I find the standalone version more pleasant to use than the plug-in. Sometimes having a dual PC/Mac setup comes in handy. :angel:
-Dave-
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