Minolta CLE Metering Pattern

[styvone]

Hi all,

I've been shooting with a CLE for the last few weeks and can't seem to understand the metering pattern. I have some shots that are perfectly exposed and some that are blown out highlights with no shadow detail. Does anyone know what the metering pattern is on the CLE? I've searched through countless forums and read the manual, but can't find anything. Is it center-weighted or average over the spot pattern?

Thanks in advance.

 

[BillBingham2]

From what I remember it meters off the shutter curtain, center-weighted if my memory is correct. Now, what Minolta means by center-weighted, can't remember but every manufacture has a different approach. I think the idea was first coined by Nikon, then copied.

Take a look at the pattern on the shutter curtain as a guide.

When I am shooting AE I always try to lock the meter and then adjust for framing (if I have time).

Sorry I can't be of more help.

B2 (;->

 

[back alley]

isn't it a center weighted with a slight bias towards the bottom of the pattern

 

[dourbalistar]

isn't it a center weighted with a slight bias towards the bottom of the pattern

+1 to what back alley said. Found this article which compares it with the Olympus OM-2's shutter curtain metering pattern (which is somewhat more weighted towards the middle). By contrast (no pun intended), the author of the article notes the CLE's pattern emphasizes the lower half:
https://www.macfilos.com/2021/04/12...le-with-40-2-28-2-8-and-the-21mm-wide-angles/

 

[styvone]

Thank you everyone for the help. I did some more digging since this post and found a Lab Report done on the CLE. It shows the metering pattern as center-weighted bottom emphasis. Thanks again!

 

[hap]

Thank you everyone for the help. I did some more digging since this post and found a Lab Report done on the CLE. It shows the metering pattern as center-weighted bottom emphasis. Thanks again!

How does that affect the framing?

 

[hap]

I can understand a center weighted mid frame higher sensitivity.....presumably that's where most people point the camera. With AE lock you canp place the zone of sensitivity around the frame for better metering. However, what's at the bottom of the frame that makes the CLE or OM meter superior?

 

[KoNickon]

This isn't a case of the "dancing LEDs" is it? Though I've found that results in an underexposure.

 

[zuikologist]

The aim of lower middle bias is to avoid metering too much the sky and under exposing the scene. Other manufacturers used similar metering patterns, whether OTF or normal metering .

I can understand a center weighted mid frame higher sensitivity.....presumably that's where most people point the camera. With AE lock you canp place the zone of sensitivity around the frame for better metering. However, what's at the bottom of the frame that makes the CLE or OM meter superior?

 

[hap]

The aim of lower middle bias is to avoid metering too much the sky and under exposing the scene. Other manufacturers used similar metering patterns, whether OTF or normal metering .

I understand the "theory", but skeptical about it in practice. Certainly Olympus and its users who vote with their feet and wallets think so. Would be interesting if someone after all these years conducted a somewhat controlled comparison.

 

[dourbalistar]

I understand the "theory", but skeptical about it in practice. Certainly Olympus and its users who vote with their feet and wallets think so. Would be interesting if someone after all these years conducted a somewhat controlled comparison.

Cosina implemented a similar center-weighted lower emphasis metering pattern on the Bessa R camera. The Head Bartender has a description about it on his CameraQuest website:
https://www.cameraquest.com/voigrf.htm

 

[hap]

Cosina implemented a similar center-weighted lower emphasis metering pattern on the Bessa R camera. The Head Bartender has a description about it on his CameraQuest website:
https://www.cameraquest.com/voigrf.htm

interesting.....i could be problematic in portrait mode to get the right exposure. The best sensitivity by careful mapping is bottom but stretches all the way to the top!

 

[hap]

Yes, I seem to get intermittent "dancing" LED's. If your finger is on the shutter button this can happen.

 

[styvone]

Mine sometimes exhibit erratic behavior - shutter speed will sound far off than what is measured or the LED will bounce to the top upon pressing the shutter button. Usually, after a few shutter cycles, it calms down but the fact that my CLE does this occasionally does not inspire confidence...

 

[KoNickon]

Exactly. I think it's a wonderful camera -- best viewfinder I have ever used, and an excellent meter. But the dancing LEDs are a major negative. I find I have to turn the shutter speed dial back and forth several times to get it to settle down. Doesn't inspire confidence, indeed. I've never been able to figure out what has to be done to stop it from happening once and for all.

 

[hap]

Exactly. I think it's a wonderful camera -- best viewfinder I have ever used, and an excellent meter. But the dancing LEDs are a major negative. I find I have to turn the shutter speed dial back and forth several times to get it to settle down. Doesn't inspire confidence, indeed. I've never been able to figure out what has to be done to stop it from happening once and for all.

someone might ask Dave Easterwood.....although he is semi retired he will answer question and sometimes take on a project.

 

[a.noctilux]

Making it clear, the CLE can not lock the exposure in A mode.

Dancing LED can be cured (or not ?) with cleaning the contacts which can be dirty after some decades.
As guide to do so, sorry in French :
https://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/rep/Minolta_CLE.html

​

 

[KoNickon]

Thanks, and this is helpful general information for adjusting the rangefinder (the screw holding the advance lever unscrews clockwise, for instance) -- but nothing in there about curing the dancing LEDs.

 

[mrcorr]

I have successfully repaired my CLE with the dancing meter problem by cleaning the contacts under the shutter speed dial. The key is to also clean under the little plastic board that the metal prongs slide over. This component is not soldered to anything at all and has a ribbon cable that’s just sandwiched by a small piece of rubber underneath. My theory is that it can lose contact over time as the rubber ages. All I had to do was remove the board and clean under it with some electronic contact cleaner and make sure the ribbon cable was seated correctly when putting it back together. Since doing this repair the camera has worked flawlessly.

Here's a picture of the component with some notes.

 

[KoNickon]

Thanks for this -- never seen this explanation before. I have a feeling it's beyond my capabilities though. But I'll take a look.