MjuII Light Leak?

[Jim Simon]

Hello all.
Up until now I've counted myself very lucky to have had a MjuII (Stylus Epic) with which I'm sure many are familiar.
It has just begun to do this:


(please ignore the actual quality of the image!)

The light has got in somewhere... Two films have done this, but not on all frames. The leak crosses onto the sprocket holes too, but I have already cropped them all and can't be bothered to re-scan - I'm sure I don't need to to show what's going on. The leak isn't on all frames - by no means - but it is on plenty.
So; could this be through the clam-shell; it might have been open for longer on some advances than others? Around the light seals at the back? Around the lens?
Has anyone had this happen?
If it's terminal there may be a whole lot more questions about alternative cameras!
Thanks for your time,
Jim.
(I've just previewed the image and the photo's tiny! Why's this? It's 400or 500 pixels across...)

 

[bensyverson]

You have the same exact light leak I've been getting on both of my Epic / mju II cameras (it's coming in from the top right, probably near the VF). Having also used the original Infinity Stylus / mju I, it's my opinion that the designers made a few too many compromises in order to achieve their many goals on the II.

Unlike 99% of the cameras out there, the II does not have conventional light seals. It has a water resistant O-ring that circles that back door and forms the ONLY seal between your film and the sun. On both of mine, the latch does not hold the door all that tightly, and thus the O-ring does not form a very confidence-building seal.

After seeing the leaks on my negatives, I did a thorough cleaning of the O-ring. I didn't remove it, but just carefully brushed away the dirt and dust that was there. Because the O-ring is the ONLY seal on the camera, a single piece of dirt can cause a light leak by preventing the ring from touching down completely.

I do love the mju II, but it's gotten so expensive... The mju I is cheaper, more common, and in many ways superior. I think it's the real unsung hero of the P+S world...

 

[lorenzo1910]

I do love the mju II, but it's gotten so expensive...

I disagree....
Usually Mju II on eBay are sold between 35 to 50 € (I bought mine for 28 €)
Fairly cheap...

 

[bensyverson]

In the states, you're lucky to get one for $80, and they routinely go for well over $100... Not too expensive in the scheme of things, but the original stylus is in many ways better, and is readily found in thrift stores for $2-$4...

 

[btgc]

the original stylus is in many ways better, and is readily found in thrift stores for $2-$4...

What's so great about it? Well, it sure is nice camera as many other from era, but....better than MjuII/Epic, except price?

OK, I agree latter model had some issues due to miniaturization (clutch in winding mechanism, which can wear out). Well...even expensive cars may have issues, people still drive them 🙂

 

[bensyverson]

Just got another roll back from the Epic, and cleaning around the seals did not really fix my light leak... I'm thinking of unloading this camera, which seems to be more trouble than it's worth.

 

[bensyverson]

What's so great about it? Well, it sure is nice camera as many other from era, but....better than MjuII/Epic, except price?

It's tougher, loads film the "right" way, has real light seals, uses a centered autofocus sensor by default, is really not very much bigger than the Epic, and is easier to replace (there are many more of them in the used market).

 

[btgc]

It's tougher, loads film the "right" way, has real light seals, uses a centered autofocus sensor by default, is really not very much bigger than the Epic, and is easier to replace (there are many more of them in the used market).

Later I will write about Konica Big Mini - on early and subsequent models.

My only complain about second Mju is shutter release button - under it is placed weak spring (which provides pre-focus position) and that thing breaks if you use camera more than couple of rolls a year.

What is interesting about AF - I have no idea how scary multi-beam AF works. I always have used to put object where I want to focus on between hairmarks in VF, focused, recomposed and voila - after years of use I have very few OOF pictures from Mju, just because of rush or what. Focusing have not bothered
me.

Right film direction? Well, I don't think "missionaire" is only proper position and direction how film travels in camera is last thing I care 🙂 Seals....strange they are leaking light...rubber should be either quite old and stiff or dirty to do so. Have never had this issue, but then my Mju is only 10 years old.

While I have learned that large apertures aren't what makes compact camera desired, though I think lens on Mju ][ is...let's call it next step farther?

Wait - I have completely forgot shutter speeds! I really like 1/1000 and 2(4)sec. times of later model - better chance of setting on one film, if nothing more.

 

[bensyverson]

I always have to use the "spot" mode on the II in order to get it to focus, and even then, it will screw up pretty often. I wish there were markers in the viewfinder to indicate where the other two AF beams pointed.

Still, when the AF works, it works!

 

[btgc]

I always have to use the "spot" mode on the II in order to get it to focus, and even then, it will screw up pretty often. I wish there were markers in the viewfinder to indicate where the other two AF beams pointed.

Still, when the AF works, it works!

I have thought, spot mode refers to metering, not AF? Manual says - exposure and focus can be adjusted at different points fom AF mark [+] when using Spot mode.

So I think Spot mode is more tricky - when half-pressing release button, camera just locks exposure, and after you recompose it sets AF right before a shot, unlike normal mode.

 

[bensyverson]

No, spot mode locks AF to the center point as well. Their wording is confusing, because it's translated from Japanese. What they mean is that using spot mode, you can set the exposure and focus to the + mark and then recompose.

FWIW, I contacted Olympus and they quoted me a price to replace the seals and do a complete overhaul. When I get the cameras back, they'll have new 6 month warranties. I think I'm going to do it. I want to see what these little guys really can do.

Another shot...

 

[Joao]

Some more lightleaks

Some more lightleaks

Lightleaks from a mju-II (only inside the frame). Three pictures at the last post of this thread
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90429
Abnormal light in one , sometimes two corners of the negative (upper border of the frame).
Could they be due to some sort of inside light reflection??
the camera was kept without use for several years, if this helps..
Thanks for any ideas
Regards
Joao