kully
Happy Snapper
Hello,
Could I have some recommendations for mount cutters? The biggest apertures I would cut would be 16x12, but mostly 8x10 - 8x8 in A3ish sized boards.
After ruining two pieces of board and an hour of faffing I've had enough of my cheap, nasty little Jakar mount cutter, it runs along a steel rule but catches on previously cut sides and the blades blunt easily.
Cheers,
kully
Could I have some recommendations for mount cutters? The biggest apertures I would cut would be 16x12, but mostly 8x10 - 8x8 in A3ish sized boards.
After ruining two pieces of board and an hour of faffing I've had enough of my cheap, nasty little Jakar mount cutter, it runs along a steel rule but catches on previously cut sides and the blades blunt easily.
Cheers,
kully
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sar-photo
Simon Robinson
Hi Kully,
Logan mountcutters are excellent. They come in various sizes and are very easy to use!
Cheers
Simon
Logan mountcutters are excellent. They come in various sizes and are very easy to use!
Cheers
Simon
Sparrow
Veteran
craygc
Well-known
+1 for Logan.
I originally bought a Logan cutter that was just a piece of extruded aluminum straight edge and the cutter that ran along it. I then attached my own aluminum channel pieces at either end of a thick piece of "craftwood" such that there was a gap between the pieces on each end exactly wide enough to fit the Logan extruded strip - and ensured that this was exactly at right angels. I also used a router to machine out a slot down the length of the board to accommodate the cutters blade. MUCH cheaper than a complete bought system, and its worked perfectly.
I originally bought a Logan cutter that was just a piece of extruded aluminum straight edge and the cutter that ran along it. I then attached my own aluminum channel pieces at either end of a thick piece of "craftwood" such that there was a gap between the pieces on each end exactly wide enough to fit the Logan extruded strip - and ensured that this was exactly at right angels. I also used a router to machine out a slot down the length of the board to accommodate the cutters blade. MUCH cheaper than a complete bought system, and its worked perfectly.
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
Roger Hicks
Veteran
For (relatively) inexpensive cut-with-a-straightedge stuff, Olfa is very good indeed. I cut mats for Frances's last exhibition -- 20 pics, I think -- with a single blade on a 45 degree cutter. The only screw-ups were where I'd mis-measured.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
kully
Happy Snapper
Lovely jubbly.
I found a local shop that that stocks both Logan and Longridge and are happy to help me choose.
Cheers for the Olfa suggestion Roger, but I want something that gives me an easy 45 degree internal cut.
I found a local shop that that stocks both Logan and Longridge and are happy to help me choose.
Cheers for the Olfa suggestion Roger, but I want something that gives me an easy 45 degree internal cut.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
kully
Happy Snapper
Hello Roger, I'm being rather thick and unable to find a 45 degree cutter in their catalogue.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
The Logan 750 is what you want. I have the 700SGM, which is an older version of the current 750 and is nearly identical. I have had it for 17 years and it works magnificently I have cut literally thousands of mats with it. The cutter rides a rail; it cannot slip or give an unstraight cut. Logan makes some smaller models, but you want this one because it is capable of cutting full-size mat board sheets (32x40 inch). Even if you never make a mat that large, you need the capability so you can properly cut the sheets to your frame size. The 750 comes with the beveled cutter for the openings, and a straight cutter for cutting the outside dimensions of the mat and backing boards.
Here's one I framed for a buyer:
The Mat cutter I am telling you to buy is not cheap at $300 or so, but it is not as expensive as high end models costingthousands and it works perfectly and literally pays for itself after cutting a few mats (figure what a frame shop charges you o custom cut mats!).
Here's one I framed for a buyer:
The Mat cutter I am telling you to buy is not cheap at $300 or so, but it is not as expensive as high end models costingthousands and it works perfectly and literally pays for itself after cutting a few mats (figure what a frame shop charges you o custom cut mats!).
kully
Happy Snapper
Thanks Chris, I'm going to buy that [Logan 750] tomorrow.
tlitody
Well-known
don't assume that mat cutters all cut at 45deg because most of them don't. There are some which do, especially foam board cutters. For the most part the actual angle doesn't matter. But where you are doing something fancy where you need two bevels to match each other it does matter. For normal window mat it doesn't matter. I mention this only because you have twice said 45deg and you may be thinking of doing something fancy so check actual cutting angle before you buy if you are wanting to do something fancy or cut foam board for deep bevels.
Ronald M
Veteran
Fletcher are best. save your pennies.
I found a used something at frame shop when they upgraded. For my small needs, it is fine & I have used it for 50 prints .
Stay away from the cheap stuff. It does not work. They are like Besslar products in that there is always something wrong with them you can not work around. If you screw up a matt, there is no fix. Salvage the cut out for a smaller matt.
If you can not afford something good, buy precut ones from Light Impressions.com.
They will be of the proper materials and not some junk boards someone is selling cheap. You will find out when they stain the prints or turn yellow in 10 years.
Buy the proper boards from Light Impressions buffered for monochrome and non buffered for color I think. Could be the reverse.
Archival Matt Boards are another quality supplier.
I went to an Ansel Adams exhibit ten years ago that traveled around. Nice work, but a lot of the original stuff was dry mounted to boards that went yellow. The matts were replaced and looked good. Sad to see this happen. I have a few from 1960 before I know better that did the same.
I no longer dry mount. I use linen tap hinge strip at the top or just mylar photo corners hidden with excessively wide borders on the print. Both work.
The key being both are removeable and they do not damage the print ever.
If you are serious, do some reading on archival preservation of photos. You will see I am steering you right.
I found a used something at frame shop when they upgraded. For my small needs, it is fine & I have used it for 50 prints .
Stay away from the cheap stuff. It does not work. They are like Besslar products in that there is always something wrong with them you can not work around. If you screw up a matt, there is no fix. Salvage the cut out for a smaller matt.
If you can not afford something good, buy precut ones from Light Impressions.com.
They will be of the proper materials and not some junk boards someone is selling cheap. You will find out when they stain the prints or turn yellow in 10 years.
Buy the proper boards from Light Impressions buffered for monochrome and non buffered for color I think. Could be the reverse.
Archival Matt Boards are another quality supplier.
I went to an Ansel Adams exhibit ten years ago that traveled around. Nice work, but a lot of the original stuff was dry mounted to boards that went yellow. The matts were replaced and looked good. Sad to see this happen. I have a few from 1960 before I know better that did the same.
I no longer dry mount. I use linen tap hinge strip at the top or just mylar photo corners hidden with excessively wide borders on the print. Both work.
The key being both are removeable and they do not damage the print ever.
If you are serious, do some reading on archival preservation of photos. You will see I am steering you right.
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tlitody
Well-known
I agree with above. The mountboard and overmat will collect most pollutants before they reach the print if its well framed. Professional framers recommend checking condition of boards regularly and replacing as soon as signs of yellowing or anthing else shows or every 20 years max but even every 5 years if there is high risk from pollutants. You can't do that if you dry mount.
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kully
Happy Snapper
Thanks for the post Ronald, could you quantify Fletcher's superiority over Logan? I don't mind spending a few more pennies (or few hundred quid in this case) as long as I know why - I see the Fletcher cutters in the flesh as the nearest stockist is rather far.
I've decided to hold off the purchase until Friday now, which is cutting it (ho ho) fine - need to get the mounts done for Sunday.
I've decided to hold off the purchase until Friday now, which is cutting it (ho ho) fine - need to get the mounts done for Sunday.
Ronald M
Veteran
Why not go to a frame shop and see one. In all the frame shops here, that is what they use.
In general. the cuts are truely square, the boards are held so they do do not move when cutting, the start and stop points are easy to use, and they hold up over time like Leica cameras or Rollex watches. It is a precision tool as opposed to some consumer thing.
Blades dull on all, nothing you can do about it. Trying to extend life will just make ragged cuts.
http://www.skylinepictures.com/Mat_Board_Glass_Cutting_Equipment_ufe282_full.htm
http://www.thefind.com/crafts/info-fletcher-2200-mat-cutter
Put Fletcher matt cutter into Yahoo.com.
In general. the cuts are truely square, the boards are held so they do do not move when cutting, the start and stop points are easy to use, and they hold up over time like Leica cameras or Rollex watches. It is a precision tool as opposed to some consumer thing.
Blades dull on all, nothing you can do about it. Trying to extend life will just make ragged cuts.
http://www.skylinepictures.com/Mat_Board_Glass_Cutting_Equipment_ufe282_full.htm
http://www.thefind.com/crafts/info-fletcher-2200-mat-cutter
Put Fletcher matt cutter into Yahoo.com.
ChrisN
Striving
A pro recommeded "Maped" cutters to me. I've not investigated closely or compared, but thought I'd mention the brand. Anyone looked at them?
tlitody
Well-known
Keencut and Fletcher are the main Pro mount cutters in the UK. Logan is more towards semi pro/hobbyist. The Keeencut and Fletcher cutters are designed for busy framers with a constant through put of work. A bit overkill for some occasional framing or occasional exhibition. The logan system is pretty good. I don't think you need spend more than £200 max but its your call. But as someone already said, make sure you are able to cut full size board squarely. That doesn't have to be done with a large size mount cutter but it does make it easier. And mount board comes in several sizes including jumbo. A big set square can be used if you have a table and a big cutting mat.
http://www.lionpic.co.uk/catalog/Mount-Cutting,6.aspx
The logan 450 should be adequate for occasional mount cutting and it has a 40 inch cut ( check with supplier on that ).
http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/LOGAN-450-INTERMEDIATE-MOUNT-CUTTER,10966.aspx
Lion are a trade supplier only. But as a photographer wanting equipment and materials for an exhibition you are considered trade
Warning: As a trade customer you will get their full printed brochure sent to you. This is not good for people who are prone to GAS.
http://www.lionpic.co.uk/catalog/Mount-Cutting,6.aspx
The logan 450 should be adequate for occasional mount cutting and it has a 40 inch cut ( check with supplier on that ).
http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/LOGAN-450-INTERMEDIATE-MOUNT-CUTTER,10966.aspx
Lion are a trade supplier only. But as a photographer wanting equipment and materials for an exhibition you are considered trade
Warning: As a trade customer you will get their full printed brochure sent to you. This is not good for people who are prone to GAS.
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dap
Established
Like others have already mentioned, Fletcher seems to be considered the high water mark (Keencut is said to be Fletchers equal, but in the US it seems like Fletcher owns the market). I never used either so I can't comment on what makes them so much better (I imagine that they are more durable, have more bells and whisles, and the head/guide system most likely offers more precision).
I have seen Fletcher 2000 models go for reasonable amounts on the second hand market if you have patience and some luck.
You might also want to look out for used C&H and Keetons (I have a Keeton). Both are high quality and very reasonable on the second hand market (just be aware that Keeton went out of business at least 20+ years ago - so there is no parts support for them)
If you are just popping off a couple of mats here and there any decent quality cutter will probably be more than enough. That being said I would still lean towards 2nd hand units (more bang for the buck...)
I would also second Chris and tlitody's advice and make sure you get a cutter that is big enough to handle the entire length of a standard sheet of mat board.
I have seen Fletcher 2000 models go for reasonable amounts on the second hand market if you have patience and some luck.
You might also want to look out for used C&H and Keetons (I have a Keeton). Both are high quality and very reasonable on the second hand market (just be aware that Keeton went out of business at least 20+ years ago - so there is no parts support for them)
If you are just popping off a couple of mats here and there any decent quality cutter will probably be more than enough. That being said I would still lean towards 2nd hand units (more bang for the buck...)
I would also second Chris and tlitody's advice and make sure you get a cutter that is big enough to handle the entire length of a standard sheet of mat board.
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