MP rewind crank doesn't sit flush with top plate?

[DerekF]

Hi,

I just got myself an MP rewind crank off eBay a few weeks ago and finally got around to installing it just today.. however, I noticed that the crank doesn't sit flush with the top plate. Is that normal? It doesn't bother me (that much 😉 ), but I was just wondering if it should actually be flush with the top plate and I just haven't applied enough pressure while installing it.

Thanks for your insight!

 

[aizan]

it doesn't sit flush because it has that upper lip. the old magnum crank sits flush, and it has a bigger knob, but it's hard to get.

 

[DerekF]

Aha, thanks Aizan. I finished a roll earlier, so it gave me a chance to use the crank for the first time this evening. Although the crank does make it somewhat easier to rewind the film, that little pin is so small, I find it cuts into my index finger and thumb while I grip it. 🙁 I'm almost thinking of removing the crank since the knob itself doesn't seem all that bad anymore.

 

[aizan]

doesn't the mp's knob have a friction bearing so it stays in place in the middle of rewinding film? the older knob wind leica's don't, so you're lucky. we have to hold it in place or it'll recoil. =)

 

[richard_l]

doesn't the mp's knob have a friction bearing so it stays in place in the middle of rewinding film? the older knob wind leica's don't, so you're lucky. we have to hold it in place or it'll recoil. =)

My M2 and M3 (both knob rewind) don't recoil, but the M6 (crank rewind) can recoil with a vengeance!

 

[aizan]

hmm...well, i'll add that to the list of things to fix. does it stay right where you let go?

 

[richard_l]

hmm...well, i'll add that to the list of things to fix. does it stay right where you let go?

Yes, it doesn't rotate at all if I let go.

 

[DerekF]

doesn't the mp's knob have a friction bearing so it stays in place in the middle of rewinding film? the older knob wind leica's don't, so you're lucky. we have to hold it in place or it'll recoil. =)

It does, but there's still a bit of recoil if you let go of it. I actually don't find it too much of a big deal since I don't find it difficult to hold the knob in place with one finger while the other repositions itself when I rewind a roll. But originally coming from an FM3a, I thought the rewind crank would make it much easier to rewind the film (and faster), but the small pin is just too painful on my fingers.. 😱

 

[x-ray]

Thanks for the info on the MP. I wasn't aware of the changes in the M6 even though I've used one of eleven yeara along side my M2. As much as I like the meter in the M6 I don't think I'd pay new price for the MP just to have the improvements ovet the M6. I've owned and shot many M2, 3, 4 & variations and 6 bodies and would'nt give a dimes difference in any of them. I've shot under terrible lighting with all and never experienced any VF problems with the 6. All are such a delight to use. I even find delight in using my old IIIc and uncoated glass with the exception of my non image erecting finder. Wow, how did anyone use that beast?

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=5045

www.x-rayarts.com

 

[Ben Z]

When I had my MP I ended up buying the crank attachment after a frustrating evening shooting a wedding trying to rewind roll after roll quickly with the straight knob. What I noticed later on was that it was safer quick rewinding with the crank if I kept my left index finger against the pulled up shaft. Not only did it keep from accidentally pushing the shaft down while turning the crank (which would have let it score the top plate), but also took a lot of the side strain off the shaft. There's quite a bit of leverage on it.

I've now applied the same finger resting technique to rewinding my M4 and M6 and now they never recoil.