So my first developing effort went without a hitch. Worried that sucker to death, made up the checklists, did everything and it came out wonderfully. The plan is to keep this up for 20 rolls or so in a single tank and then begin to think about multi-reels. I mean... yes I like this, but I do have a life. FWIW, I'm using the Samigon plastic reels and these babies are amazingly easy to work with. I practiced 3 times with a dud roll and wondered why I worried. Okay... I'm shooting like crazy to have plenty of film to practice with... and it's fun anyway... even if I lose something here and there.
Okay, lots of questions:
1) Changing bag size vs. manageable reel capacity: Darkroom Dave does 5 reels in a Paterson tank, but that puppy is probably going to make my changing bag run out of room. Two or three seems to be a practical size. What do you do? Do you multi reel process... or not?
2) I'm using a Paterson single reel tank and plan to keep with that to get enough reps to say, "I think I've got it!" Muscle memory experts say the magic number is 20. So that seems fine. I like to plan ahead. So I'm looking at 1) Paterson, 2) Jobo (not likely) and 3) Arista as the main plastic contenders. Stainless tanks aren't beyond the pale, but I think I'm sticking with the Samigon reels... these things are simple! What do you use for multi-reel?
3) Serious question: Will multi-reel processing introduce a slew of new issues that really should be deferred until much more experience than 20 rolls? If so, why and what sort of problems?
FWIW, my first processed roll was Ilford HP5 in Ilford DD-X... 'cause that's what my local guy had. Lots of "density" in those first negatives. I'm thrilled!!! Success wasn't expected... if I'm absolutely honest. And so I've just received a bottle of Kodak HC-110 based on recommendations, and a bottle of Adox's Rodinal... just because I couldn't resist. Plan is to use up the DD-X and switch to HC-110 as the "go to" assuming I like the output. Rodinal... dunno. It's there. Mystery is solved. I have no rush to go there.
Additional advice is always appreciated... even if my experience is still to green to know how to use it!! Thanks to all who offered recommendations earlier btw!
I don't think you've mentioned which format(s) you're processing? I routinely double up rolls of 120 in my Paterson reels which is one way to get through a roll a bit quicker. There's really no down side providing you're aware of any minimum developer quantity considerations (Eg if using the HC-110 dilution"H" for example, where the minimum amount of actual developer is a factor, and not just the overall concentration or ratio). As you have mentioned HC-110 I have found
this page to be very helpful during my initial use of it over the last twelve months or so. It cautions against mixing less than 6ml of concentrate per film regardless of fluid volume. Worth noting. I've used the dilution H with results I was very pleased with, and the economical consumption of developer is outstanding albeit at the expense of longer development times of course.
I purchased a slightly larger than usual changing bag (ex South Korea via eBay). I'm glad I did because I do develop a bit of film for other people and, when I have enough rolls of the same type or same developing time/type I will sometimes use a Paterson tank that takes five 35mm reels (or three 120). I don't have a problem with this but with a smaller bag it would be more of a tussle.
I've been using single 35mm/120 reel, 2 x 120/3 x 35mm and 3 x 120/5 x 35mm Paterson tanks for a number of years and haven't noticed any complications from the varying sizes. The main thing I would caution against is over or under filling your tanks. Too little fluid and you may not cover all your reels. Too much and there may be insufficient air space to permit adequate circulation of the fluid across your reels because when you invert, you need a certain amount of air space for the fluid to "vent" into the other end of the tank, in order to promote effective fluid circulation throughout the spirals.
I have never had to develop a single roll of film in my largest tank, and ideally, I never would. Not that I couldn't if for some reason it was imperative. But getting the best results from your development regime has much to do with consistency. How you invert, how vigorously, how may times, how frequently, which developer(s), whether you begin the clock when you start to pour or when the tank is filled, etc. and after a while this will all yield predictable results you'll have confidence in. Personally I can't tell any difference in quality between films I have processed in a single reel tank and others I've done in my five reel. It's most likely because I match the size of my tank to the number of films I need to process. It's common sense I think. But I could easily appreciate how my tonality and contrast
might be different if Eg. I developed a single roll in my largest tank, because, with so little fluid in such a large tank, it is going to circulate much more freely and much faster than normal. If I inverted precisely like usually do, I would not be at all surprised to see a variation in my results, and, if push came to shove and I had to do it, I'd likely be a bit more gentle with the inversions to compensate. But I'd avoid the issue in the first place whenever possible. Not because it can't be done, just because consistency is the key, and it's not how I usually develop.
You should not interpret the above as meaning you should only ever process films if a tank is full. That's not what I'm suggesting at all. My first tank was the 2 x 120/3 x 35mm and I certainly developed a few single films in it without drama. I would simply be wary of using a very big tank nearly empty, as opposed to another tank that is half full. I hope this makes sense.
Whatever size tank is used, if it is not loaded to capacity, placing empty reels above your loaded one to the capacity of the tank, to act as spacers, will stop the loaded reel at the bottom of the tank from creeping out of the fluid as you invert and is a very good move. Some types have retaining clips, which may or may not work very well as an alternative. The Paterson clips are OK if they have not been stored on the centre column of the tanks. Paterson's instructions tell you not to do this with them because they'll lose elasticity. But every tank I ever find has the clip fitted on the column, and they never work very well as a result.
As far as which tanks/reels/brand, I'm afraid you're going to have to expect everyone to recommend the sort they use. Steel v plastic reels can be a much argumented topic. It's a personal preference. The truth is that neither type is perfect. Eg plastic reels can't be re-loaded wet. Steel reels can. But steel reels can also bend if they're dropped, and may then be scrap if they're distorted badly: films may no longer feed in correctly. Plastic ones will bounce and can crack if you are unlucky, but are often undamaged. I've glued a couple of Paterson ones with minor cracks and they have kept on going. Eventually they'll probably go again, but I have a couple of dozen, no big deal.
You should go with what you prefer, or are used to, but by all means try the alternative if it's presented, it's how we all learn, isn't it? I use Paterson simply because they're the easiest to find where I live, it seems, as I've acquired a number of tanks and reels nearly new (or even unused) for a fiver at recycling shops. Granted, I can't re-load them if they are wet. But I use a changing bag and wet reels in a changing bag just don't work no matter what they're made of, so, personally, I don't care a whit about that. Darkroom users may place more importance on it for legitimate reasons. Take on board different peoples opinions but beware of those who say "this is the only way", because that's patently not the case. I don't seek to convert anyone to Paterson, etc. It's simply a case of what I use, and why. Draw your own conclusions for your own situation from peoples comments.
Cheers,
Brett
