Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I forgot to add the dev. time for Ilford Delta 3200, so thats up, and I have begun adding example images from the different film and developer combinations
robinsonphotography
Established
What a fabulous resource. Just souped some negs (Tri-x and Tmax) with your rodinal times, they turned out great!!
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Just added time for two-stop push of Tmax 400 in Tmax Dev. And added Tmax 400 example pics
jmilkins
Digited User
thank you 
thank you thank you !:angel:
thank you thank you !:angel:
Anthony Harvey
Well-known
Let me add my thanks to all the others, Chris. The new section to your website is already very helpful. But perhaps this is the right time to also say how much I value your contributions to this forum, in words and pictures. Your photos have great aesthetic qualities, not only in composition and tone but also in your choice of subject and in the feeling that is part of the photo. As to your words, I’m always pleased when I see your atavar for the next post in the thread cos I know that something thoughtful and interesting is about to appear. Like many others I expect, I’m always using members’ search to find your posts.
Kind regards,
Anthony
Kind regards,
Anthony
jmcd
Well-known
Thanks for the great chart, Christopher.
You mention that your N-1 is for sunny days and high contrast. Just to make better sense of your chart (and I might have missed your mentioning it), what kind of light produces your Normal—soft directional or overcast producing soft and/or no shadow?
You mention that your N-1 is for sunny days and high contrast. Just to make better sense of your chart (and I might have missed your mentioning it), what kind of light produces your Normal—soft directional or overcast producing soft and/or no shadow?
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Normal developing gives a good negative where if you place your darkest area you want full detail retained in on Zone III your brightest white you want detail in should fall on Zone VII. That is what the normal dev. times manufacturers give is designed to do. It works for studio light where you can control light ration and it works most of the time in overcast daylight and soft light with faint shadows. Ansel Adams talked about doing two-stop contractions in very contrasy/harsh light which you do get here most parts of the USA in summer. My testing has shown that N-2 developing doesn't give good results with modern films, makes them look very muddy in the midtones, so I do the N-1 dev. even for very harsh light and I use low contrast paper (if I was in the darkroom) or I maniuplate the contrast in Photoshop if the N-1 developing doesn't reduce contrast enough on the neg.
I carry a spotmeter or use the built in spotmeter on my cameras that have it and use the zone system for exposure and developing. Most people do not and don't understand it well, so I gave the general advice to just use N-1 times for sunny days and that gives great results most of the time.