My first Leica IIIc

[alphonse2501]

Hi, all
I bought one Leica IIIc (No.504276) from ebay as my first Leica camera. It works well, except rangefinder's double image is too weak to see. Now I guess it needs CLA and "beam splitter" refresh. How much I need to make funds for this fixes?

According the serial number, it was from a batch at 1950. It is IIIc, however, it have a flash plug like IIIf between eyepiece and cold shoe. Why a IIIc model have the flash plug from IIIf?

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

I can't say what it will cost in your country but I'm sure many others will.

The IIIc didn't have a flash contact built in and the VACU- gadget was a bit clumsy but adding a 3mm co-axial socket and syncho. connections was fairly simple and so a lot of repair shops would do it for you. They all had their own ideas where to put the socket and the result was/is as you see it. Some copied the IIIf or IIIg and others were more independent. Given the small size of the camera body and the way everything is fitted inside they probably didn't have much choice and it would be resticted in position to avoid light leaks and make the camera easy to strip down later on, etc.

Regards, David

 

[alphonse2501]

These photo are what my IIIc likes:

http://i.imgur.com/hCVdl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ffYZt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/F5guo.jpg

So this is not a factory added socket?

 

[colyn]

That is a pc socket that was added by a non-Leitz repairman. It is unlikely to work properly as in sync with the shutter..

 

[MISH]

Youxin Ye seems to be a repairman that is held in pretty high regard around here and his web site has a price list that should give you a general ideal what such repairs might cost. The next step might be deciding where you want to have it repaired at and call them for a quote

http://www.yyecamera.com/price_list.html

 

[alphonse2501]

Thanks, I will make a message to Youxin Ye later.

One more pic:
http://i.imgur.com/nVp7V.jpg
I probably won't know what this number means.

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Have you tried it with a film in it and a flash gun?

It could be synch-ed for the old FP flash bulbs, ordinary flash bulbs or even electronic flash as the amateur who could afford a IIIc could probably afford electronic flash in those days. If you do get it repaired and checked then it could be set up for electronic flash and should be OK.

Trouble is, no one knows how (in the sense of which variation) these old alterations were done: and a respectable job for a FP flash bulb would give someone the impression that it was wrong when tried with electronic flash. That's why the cameras designed in the old USSR had a little lever to set the delay and then all 3 flash versions could be used.

Regards, David

 

[alphonse2501]

I don't have any old flash.


Mr. Youxin Ye wrote back stated remove the socket at back will leave a hole at back. He has spare IIIc top plate for change but this way can make mismatch the serial numbers on chassis and top plate.


So the decisions incoming:

A. disable flash, but keep the socket on back.
(It may scratch my eyeglasses)

B. disable flash and change top plate.
(chassis and top plate serial number disagree)

C. Just turn up its flash ability on CLA, everything stays.
(May need find compatible modern flash later, I do not have this knowledge. )

 

[alphonse2501]

My camera finished CLA from Mr. Youxin Ye:

http://i.imgur.com/zn8r4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Qq4y6.jpg
(One thing I notice is red paint on slow speed dial lost)

http://i.imgur.com/g6trO.jpg
pc socked disabled, and I put a cover originally from Canon A-1.

http://i.imgur.com/5EZrG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LTASf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vCXfj.jpg
I knew there has lens cap issue at RFF, then I just take a cap from the soy bean juice can.


Feeling a bit different at slow speeds between before/after CLA. Now I am using color negative film to make test shoot, maybe I will get result after few weeks.


PS: This Industar-11 was bought from fedka, and it's non-KMZ.

 

[batterytypehah!]

Looks good! I like your resourcefulness...

Just make sure you pull the lens out and lock it before you take pictures. It's easy to forget.

 

[wolves3012]

http://i.imgur.com/Qq4y6.jpg
(One thing I notice is red paint on slow speed dial lost)

Only 1/30th is marked in red, on both dials - at least on mine.

http://i.imgur.com/g6trO.jpg
pc socked disabled, and I put a cover originally from Canon A-1.

Mine's minus this.

I knew there has lens cap issue at RFF, then I just take a cap from the soy bean juice can.

You can get a generic cap easily enough, I've bought a few off Ebay quite cheaply.

PS: This Industar-11 was bought from fedka, and it's non-KMZ.

It's an Industar 22, made by KOMZ. I have an identical one living on my (slightly older) IIIC and if yours performs like mine you won't be disappointed.

I'd post a pic but RFF tells me it exceeds my downloads! (Anyone?)

 

[alphonse2501]

Got my first roll, I do not have scanner but I am sure performance of Industar-22 is fairly well...except one frame shows short distance (1 meter, I guess) focus is a bit far then I though.

Now I just realize FSU lens need shimming so it can fully capable with Leica. I do not have handy hands to perform it so I guess I will looking a summitar lens later.
(However, Industar is better than Elmar on aperture dial, easy to change on ring.)

 

[alphonse2501]

Finally I decided use Summitar (uncoated) for my IIIc
http://i.imgur.com/9EwE1.jpg

I made a sunny 16 mini chart and sticky at back. I can make trail and error to find best exposure sets.

But the question is this Summitar uses old aperture sequences, use middle apertures may hard to understand which number is best...

 

[Thomas78]

If you are using "sunny 16" youre exposure will almost certain be not precise enought to show the 1/3 stop difference between the old and new aperture sequence.

If you are worried about the difference, treat the film as 1/3 stop slower, use a 100 as an 80, a 400 as a 320,...
this will give you 1/3 stop "overdevelopment".

If you use 2.2 instead of 2.0, 3.2 instead of 2.8, 4.5 instead of 4,... you compensate the 1/3 stop "overdevelopment".


And you don't need middle apertures for b&w or colour negative film...


Regards,
Thomas