My first light seal replacement ...

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paulfish4570

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... seems to have gone well. I used an Interslice kit for one of my two Fujica ST605s that needed new seals. Job took me about two hours, and looks neat enough. Instructions that came with the little kit are well done.
But man, those are some thin little strips of foam for my faded micro skills and tremors. Anyhow, that just jacks up the patience index. It's probably a one hour or less job for someone with experience.
I do suggest that anyone who uses the kit to get a bundle of bamboo skewers. Use a single-edge razor blade or X-acto knife to make a LOOOONG version of the little bamboo tool sent with the kit. Some extra length and your own point-shaping makes the job easier.
I have a second kit to use on my other ST605, but I will wait until tomorrow to do the other job ...
 
The Interslice kits from Jon Goodman are really nice, especially these days when we can buy many fine cameras on evilbay - it is possible to find real bargains, but it comes as no surprise that a light seal replacement is necessary for those 30 or 40 years old beauties.
 
Good job! Good to see Fujica cameras being kept alive and being used. So far none of my 801 or 901 cameras have needed that. The only "seal" replacement I have done was after finding a proper glue and yarn replacement, for the "Yak yarn" on my Kiev 4am.
 
It gets easier every time you do it. I've done about 25 now. We'd all be up that famous creek w/o Jon Goodman! He's a super helpful guy too.....
 
Thanks for the encouragement. I reckon it is a very well spent $9 to get those itsy-bitsy pre-cut strips. I can't imagine cutting them myself ... :)
 
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I´m talking to Jon now about some foam for my Kowa.

Did you replace the mirror dampening too?
 
OK now it's my turn, starting with my Nikon FA. This is my first light seal replacement, too. I bought my seals from John Hawley after seeing the ad on eBay. I was surprised to find no instructions in the envelope. I have begun by cutting a chisel point in the end of a popsicle stick. I use the stick to lift the old seal, which is mostly goop. Some of it stays behind, so my question is whether I should be using any solvent (lighter fluid?) to clean it out better, or just just dig it out the best I can before laying the new seal over the top. I want to avoid the solvent running into places it doesn't belong. Is it necessary or advisable to use solvent?

Next question: How to replace the foam mirror cushion? What is the best way to remove it. I gather I need to cut it to make that gap in the center. Is that right?
 
A little advice for making seal installation much easier. Apply saliva to the adhesive section after you remove the paper backing. This will allow you to set the seals in the channels more easily. The saliva will dry, and the seals will be firmly in place.

For those who think saliva is messy, you can use alcohol based hand cleaner instead.
 
I get bamboo grilling scewers from the grocery store, as they come in a nice 50 pack. Different sizes are available, such as the thicker, shorter ones used for corn-on-the-cob. And in the ladies cosmetics aisle, you'll find special applicators which are just fancy cotton swabs with one pointy end, and one clubbed end. These are good for getting the solvent down in the door channels to clean all the gunk out.

PF
 
Not real keen about replacing the seals but sure do love using a camera that's been refreshed with new ones...my advice is to just take your time and do it right the first time...get all the old stuff out of there and once the new seals are in place check how the film door is aligning with them...
 
Well, so far I've had trouble getting the foam to seat flat in the channels. No matter how careful I am, it wants to adhere to the sidewall on one side, winding up sitting at an angle rather than flat. Saliva may have helped a little, but not much. I wonder if my foam was too wide. Does this stuff vary much dimensionally?
 
+1 for Jon Goodman. They don't come any nicer than Jon! I resealed my Olympus XA with one of Jon's kits and I couldn't be happier. Also bought a beautiful Oly OM-1N camera from him. Highly recommended!

Kent
 
+1 for Jon Goodman kits. The strips he supplies are non adhesive, but rely instead on compression to hold them in the channels. A very neat solution. I have done several cameras with no problem. The main thing is not to rush, but be completely thorough in removing the old goo.
 
Rob-F said:
Well, so far I've had trouble getting the foam to seat flat in the channels. No matter how careful I am, it wants to adhere to the sidewall on one side, winding up sitting at an angle rather than flat. Saliva may have helped a little, but not much. I wonder if my foam was too wide. Does this stuff vary much dimensionally?
Click to expand...


I install seals in as many as 10 cameras a week, it takes a little care to get them to fit correctly. It's better that the seals be a little too wide than too narrow. Seal material comes in different thicknesses, from 1mm to 2.5mm. The standard thickness for most cameras is 1.5mm.

First, the channels must be properly cleaned, that means completely cleaned. To start, do not scrape out the old seal material. Saturate the old seal material with lacquer thinner, and let it sit for about 10 minutes. This will allow the seal material and old adhesive to break down. If you scrape out the old seal material first, the lacquer thinner will evaporate before the old ahesive softens up.

Next, use a micro screwdriver to scrape out the old seal material and adhesive. Micro drivers from a dollar store work fine. Then use a toothbrush to brush out the seal channels.

Next, use a pair of pliers (I use pointed pliers) to squeeze the tips of cotton swabs flat, so they will fit into the seal channels. Wet the cotton swabs with lacquer thinner, and clean the channels with them. Once the channels are perfectly clean, then you can install the seals.

I cut seals using a large paper cutter, but scissors are okay if you are careful. Cut the seals to the right width, then apply saliva liberally to the adhesive side, and place the seal in the channel. You can use the screwdriver you used to clean the channels to press the new seals in. If the seal doesn't sit properly, pull it back out, apply more saliva, and press it back in.

You have to be extra careful at the end of the seal where the door opens and closes, if the end is not properly set, it may stick to the door, and the seal will be pulled out when the door is opened. I use a sharp side-cutter to cut the seal to the proper length.

Close the film door tightly to full press in the seals. It takes me about 20 minutes or so to do the job properly.
 
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