My first light seal replacement ...

I've yet to see a foam that doesn't eventually crumble. You may have seen older cameras or worked with cine equipment that's sealed with yarn and velvet tape. Here are some instructions for the old-school method:

http://photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt

If you are a photo.net member, log-in and the article appears as a single page when you hit 'refresh'. This makes it easy to save as a single .pdf file.

The non-foam method also has the advantage of costing only a few cents per camera in materials. This method takes a while to master. You may want to do a few test pieces on a wrecked body. With practice you can complete a camera in 30-60 minutes depending on the anatomy of the film door. Cameras like Nikkormat's have a drop-out film cassette in a 'D' shaped channel. It's a little trickier to get the wool yarn into this 'D'-shaped channel, so you have to glue down each leg of the 'D' separately and wait for it to dry. Such bodies take about an hour with practice.

Good luck with whatever method you choose.
 
Well, I had luck with the top channel of my FA, then botched the lower one. Than I went on to botch the upper channel on my FE2. I will try once more, with a different product. So who is this Jon Goodman. Anybody got a link or email address?
 
Frontman said:
I install seals in as many as 10 cameras a week, it takes a little care to get them to fit correctly. It's better that the seals be a little too wide than too narrow. Seal material comes in different thicknesses, from 1mm to 2.5mm. The standard thickness for most cameras is 1.5mm.

First, the channels must be properly cleaned, that means completely cleaned. To start, do not scrape out the old seal material. Saturate the old seal material with lacquer thinner, and let it sit for about 10 minutes. This will allow the seal material and old adhesive to break down. If you scrape out the old seal material first, the lacquer thinner will evaporate before the old ahesive softens up.

Next, use a micro screwdriver to scrape out the old seal material and adhesive. Micro drivers from a dollar store work fine. Then use a toothbrush to brush out the seal channels.

Next, use a pair of pliers (I use pointed pliers) to squeeze the tips of cotton swabs flat, so they will fit into the seal channels. Wet the cotton swabs with lacquer thinner, and clean the channels with them. Once the channels are perfectly clean, then you can install the seals.

I cut seals using a large paper cutter, but scissors are okay if you are careful. Cut the seals to the right width, then apply saliva liberally to the adhesive side, and place the seal in the channel. You can use the screwdriver you used to clean the channels to press the new seals in. If the seal doesn't sit properly, pull it back out, apply more saliva, and press it back in.

You have to be extra careful at the end of the seal where the door opens and closes, if the end is not properly set, it may stick to the door, and the seal will be pulled out when the door is opened. I use a sharp side-cutter to cut the seal to the proper length.

Close the film door tightly to full press in the seals. It takes me about 20 minutes or so to do the job properly.
Click to expand...


You could have been in my shop. Textbook perfect explaination. I might add adhesive choice and finger oil contamination are also important, but as you started with cleaning that is the trick. Thanks for a great tut!:D
 
Round tooth picks cut diagonally in the center clean the channels effectively.

MEK will make short work of the residue. Use small amounts outside.
 
+100 for Jon Goodman

I have received two kits from him and asked about a 3rd. Well, he doesn't have a kit for my Miranda F so he is just sending scraps and end cuts that should be enough to do my Miranda including the viewfinder seals, for free! I offered to pay, of course, but he declined. Good man in my book! :thumbup:

-Xander
 
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