My fixer failed . . . quick question

[traveler_101]

Th first time since I've been developing my own film that I have had a serious problem, but it is my own doing.😀

I developed, fixed and went through a rinse cycle before I noticed that the film had not cleared. It's sitting on the reel in the tank right now.

Then I checked my fixer with a small strip of film from another roll--and, yes, it is dead.

The question: can i mix up a new batch of fixer and save the roll, or is it pretty much useless now?

Thanks in advice for any advice you can offer.

 

[JoeV]

Yes, refix with fresh solution.

~Joe

 

[Jonik]

How did you notice that it didn't get fixed? Did you open the tank or you just remembered that your fixer had to be replaced?

You can and should make a new batch and fix it but if you opened the tank then the resultw will differ from what you'd normally expect.. But if I were you I'd still go through the whole process... Who knows...

 

[traveler_101]

How did you notice that it didn't get fixed? Did you open the tank or you just remembered that your fixer had to be replaced?

You can and should make a new batch and fix it but if you opened the tank then the resultw will differ from what you'd normally expect.. But if I were you I'd still go through the whole process... Who knows...

No, I didn't suspect the fixer because it hadn't been used that much. So yes I opened the tank and starting rinsing it. Only when I got to the end of my rinse did I notice that there was a problem.

Not sure I'll bother . . . too bad because these shots can't be replaced.

 

[Jonik]

i'd still fix it. you really never know.

 

[zauhar]

No, I didn't suspect the fixer because it hadn't been used that much. So yes I opened the tank and starting rinsing it. Only when I got to the end of my rinse did I notice that there was a problem.

Not sure I'll bother . . . too bad because these shots can't be replaced.

Shots that can't be replaced? Doesn't seem to me that there is much question about spending 5 minutes to fix again then try another rinse.

Even if the result doesn't look 'right', it may be a happy accident!

Randy

P.S. I put a fresh piece of tape on my fixer bottle when I refill it, and mark every time I use it. I fix ten rolls with 600 ml, then discard.

 

[Sejanus.Aelianus]

I developed, fixed and went through a rinse cycle before I noticed that the film had not cleared.

You have my deepest sympathy. Just a few days ago, I carefully developed and washed two rolls of 35mm. Only when I opened the tank to hang them up, did I realise that I hadn't even poured any fixer in, before starting the wash cycle. 😱

As others have said, keep the film in the dark, make up some new fixer and pour it into the tank. All should be well.

 

[traveler_101]

You have my deepest sympathy. Just a few days ago, I carefully developed and washed two rolls of 35mm. Only when I opened the tank to hang them up, did I realise that I hadn't even poured any fixer in, before starting the wash cycle. 😱

As others have said, keep the film in the dark, make up some new fixer and pour it into the tank. All should be well.

How did yours turn out?

I was alert enough to immediately cover the tank when i discovered my mistake. So you guys convinced me and I went through the routine and they seem to be o.k. . . . . but I'll have to see. Maybe I detect some kind of a haze on some of the first exposures . . . hard for my untrained eye. They seem mostly normal, perhaps a bit under-exposed or over-developed.

My general question: after the developer and the stop bath are applied, is the film now developed or is it still sensitive to light like undeveloped film? If the latter, mine aren't going to turn out so well.

 

[traveler_101]

Shots that can't be replaced? Doesn't seem to me that there is much question about spending 5 minutes to fix again then try another rinse.
. . .

P.S. I put a fresh piece of tape on my fixer bottle when I refill it, and mark every time I use it. I fix ten rolls with 600 ml, then discard.

It isn't really important; I am purely an amateur; in this instance rather than taking my digital along to take tourist shots, I used my Bessa T to take b&w shots . . . which were mostly tourist shots anyway. I was in Tartu, Estonia for a conference. I may not go back there ever . . . thus "irreplaceable."

Ten rolls? I have been doing seventeen rolls -- but now that I got burned I will thing again.

 

[zauhar]

It isn't really important; I am purely an amateur; in this instance rather than taking my digital along to take tourist shots, I used my Bessa T to take b&w shots . . . which were mostly tourist shots anyway. I was in Tartu, Estonia for a conference. I may not go back there ever . . . thus "irreplaceable."

Ten rolls? I have been doing seventeen rolls -- but now that I got burned I will thing again.

Ten rolls is really conservative, I admit. But that way I don't have to worry about it being exhausted.

 

[Sejanus.Aelianus]

My general question: after the developer and the stop bath are applied, is the film now developed or is it still sensitive to light like undeveloped film?

In theory, until it's fixed, you still have Silver Halides reacting to light. That shouldn't be a problem, if you don't leave it exposed to light for more than the time it takes to realise your error and close the tank. Stick in fixer as soon as possible and all should turn out well.

My little mistake didn't cause any lasting damage, as the developer had been well washed away.

 

[Moto-Uno]

^Refix. I've had similar problems in the past and on following the suggestion of another member I simply refixed and washed and the negs looked good. Development is pretty much finished after the stop bath. Peter

 

[john_s]

Even if the fixer is not good, i would expect it to partially work. If it didn't, you would have noticed that the film after your inadequate fix would have been quite opaque. So the film is partially fixed. New fixer will probably make it just as good as if your original fixer had been fresh.

 

[oftheherd]

As I recall, it works sorta like this: The dark areas of a scene don't expose as much, or maybe any, of the silver halides in the film. The developer, which is a base solution, chemically changes those silver halides that were exposed to light, and they become dark in the negative. The more that were exposed, the more changed. Stop bath essentially stops development since it is acid and base is needed for development. As it happens, it also sort of helps fixer since it also must be acidic to work, and the stop bath has already changed most of the base. Then the fixer removes that silver not developed by the fixer. The light area left in the negative will be dark in the print.

Since the development has mostly stopped with the stop bath, if you don't wait too long, just go ahead with good strength fixer and it will do what it is supposed to do. Left exposed to light, unexposed silver will darken if the film is not fixed, which removes those. A day or two, with film kept in the dark probably will not be a problem, but I have never had a reason to test that.

 

[john_s]

.. As it happens, it also sort of helps fixer since it also must be acidic to work, and the stop bath has already changed most of the base.....

A minor correction: fixer need not be acidic.

In OP's case acidic fixer helps as it also inhibits development even if the fixing is not complete.

 

[oftheherd]

A minor correction: fixer need not be acidic.

In OP's case acidic fixer helps as it also inhibits development even if the fixing is not complete.

Yes, I could have said when acidic fixer is used, using stop bath helps the fixer stay acidic longer. But I think acidic fixer is way the most common and so stated it the way I did.

I would wonder how acidic the OP's fixer would have been if exhausted.