ls7corvete
Member
Well I just purchased a GSW690 and I am hoping to learn alot with it, I bought it on credit so I need to learn to love it before I start accruing interest or sell it.
With that said I thought I would make a post here and get a bit invovled in some new forums. Of coarse I come with a new problem as well....
I plan to use the new camera with a Canon A1 that I have to both save the larger film for the shots I feel more confident about as well as use the light metering of the canon w/ gray card. The only problem is that the canon is stuck at the 200 ISO(seems like someone dropped it or something) setting and it seems that 220 only comes in 160. Can I just use the exposure compensation knob on the A1 to adjust for the difference in film speed? Seems easy enough, IDK how much compensation would be needed though.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/a1/manual/htm/special.html
Thanks for the help
BTW I plan to scan with a epson 4490, touch up in photoshop and print what I like.
With that said I thought I would make a post here and get a bit invovled in some new forums. Of coarse I come with a new problem as well....
I plan to use the new camera with a Canon A1 that I have to both save the larger film for the shots I feel more confident about as well as use the light metering of the canon w/ gray card. The only problem is that the canon is stuck at the 200 ISO(seems like someone dropped it or something) setting and it seems that 220 only comes in 160. Can I just use the exposure compensation knob on the A1 to adjust for the difference in film speed? Seems easy enough, IDK how much compensation would be needed though.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/a1/manual/htm/special.html
Thanks for the help
BTW I plan to scan with a epson 4490, touch up in photoshop and print what I like.
Finder
Veteran
You can compensate the exposure by +1/3 EV (1/3 a stop). Because the Fuji uses a leaf shutter, you could also try +2/3 EV to +1 EV as shutter efficency may be a factor depending on the aperture.
That should give you a good starting place. You may want to compensate that after you get your first roll back as there are so many variables in what you are doing. But the exposures should be in the ball park and should scan well.
That should give you a good starting place. You may want to compensate that after you get your first roll back as there are so many variables in what you are doing. But the exposures should be in the ball park and should scan well.
mdelevie
Established
Welcome to medium format! You've chosen an excellent platform for learning and appreciating the advantages of film. That huge 6x9 negative will really bring out the details in your photos.
On your exposure question, Finder is exactly right. Most negative film has so much exposure latitude that you won't even notice a 1/3rd stop exposure difference. Once you learn more about exposure, you'll understand how to adjust your 'meter reading' for different film speeds. Using the Canon and a grey card makes an improvised "ambient light" meter, which is okay. Using the canon pointed right at your subject turns it into a reflected light meter, which you may also want to use in some situations.
Enjoy your new camera.
On your exposure question, Finder is exactly right. Most negative film has so much exposure latitude that you won't even notice a 1/3rd stop exposure difference. Once you learn more about exposure, you'll understand how to adjust your 'meter reading' for different film speeds. Using the Canon and a grey card makes an improvised "ambient light" meter, which is okay. Using the canon pointed right at your subject turns it into a reflected light meter, which you may also want to use in some situations.
Enjoy your new camera.
ls7corvete
Member
Thanks for the tips guys, I will check back when I have some results.
ls7corvete
Member
Well I am getting a bit dissappointed here, the camera I picked up has a scratch in the lens so it looks like I am going to have to send that back.
Also I am not happy with the 4490, its been giving me trouble and I cant help but feel like I am getting way more grain in my photos then I should.
Well see for yourselves, I will try to demostrate both problems for you. first is cropped to show grain, second is cropped to show the 'scratch' and the third is a full size of the first.
B&W is arista.edu 400 speed, color is 100 speed, I forget the name..
Also I am not happy with the 4490, its been giving me trouble and I cant help but feel like I am getting way more grain in my photos then I should.
Well see for yourselves, I will try to demostrate both problems for you. first is cropped to show grain, second is cropped to show the 'scratch' and the third is a full size of the first.
B&W is arista.edu 400 speed, color is 100 speed, I forget the name..
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David Goldfarb
Well-known
It's hard to say what the scale is of the scratch on the lens, but it is probably not that important in terms of effect on the images you are making, though it will affect the value of the camera, should you resell it.
The current film sold as arista.edu Ultra, I believe is Czech film from Foma. The 200 and 400 speed films from Foma are tonally interesting, but they are grainy. If you process your own film, you can use a different developer to reduce the grain, usually at the expense of film speed and possibly acutance, but there are many options which allow for different possibilities.
You can also try shooting a different film. Ilford Delta 400 is a beautiful film that has pretty decent grain. Kodak Tri-X 400 is also a classic film, and the modern version has pretty good grain for a 400-speed film. Of course you could also try a slower film, which will have finer grain, like Ilford FP-4+ or Kodak T-Max 100 (very fine grain, but not everyone likes the tonality) or Efke/Adox 100 (classic tonality, but grainier than FP-4+ in general).
If you do not process your own film, and don't use one of the better custom labs that specialize in B&W, I'd stick with Kodak or Ilford or (Fuji Neopan if you like that look). You might even consider using a C-41 B&W film like Ilford XP-2 Super, which can be processed by any lab that can process color negative film.
The current film sold as arista.edu Ultra, I believe is Czech film from Foma. The 200 and 400 speed films from Foma are tonally interesting, but they are grainy. If you process your own film, you can use a different developer to reduce the grain, usually at the expense of film speed and possibly acutance, but there are many options which allow for different possibilities.
You can also try shooting a different film. Ilford Delta 400 is a beautiful film that has pretty decent grain. Kodak Tri-X 400 is also a classic film, and the modern version has pretty good grain for a 400-speed film. Of course you could also try a slower film, which will have finer grain, like Ilford FP-4+ or Kodak T-Max 100 (very fine grain, but not everyone likes the tonality) or Efke/Adox 100 (classic tonality, but grainier than FP-4+ in general).
If you do not process your own film, and don't use one of the better custom labs that specialize in B&W, I'd stick with Kodak or Ilford or (Fuji Neopan if you like that look). You might even consider using a C-41 B&W film like Ilford XP-2 Super, which can be processed by any lab that can process color negative film.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I agree the the latitude of negative film will cover off a 1/3 stop reading, but FWIW I would not count on the Canon's meter. Not that there's anything wrong with Canon metering (I have no experience with Canon,) but if the the ASA dial is stuck and there potentially damage to the camera, I wouldn't count on the compensation function working correctly.
P
plexi
Guest
To put a few things straight, you will not see the effect of a little scratch on your lens, the crop you posted is not is not the scratch, it`s dust or a scratch on the negative.
Looking at the full picture of that girl, I see no grain at all, what`s the problem? Looking at crops tells you little, look at prints!
How is the B&W developed? By a lab, yourself, wich developer?
And of course, you should expect some grain from any 400 speed film when you blow it up on your computer screen...
Looking at the full picture of that girl, I see no grain at all, what`s the problem? Looking at crops tells you little, look at prints!
How is the B&W developed? By a lab, yourself, wich developer?
And of course, you should expect some grain from any 400 speed film when you blow it up on your computer screen...
ZeissFan
Veteran
That almost certainly is debris on the negative. A scratch on the lens wouldn't render in focus.
Also, scanning tends to accentuate film grain. Plus, I agree that a 400 speed film willl have visible grain.
Hey, don't give up. Keep at it. You'll have a great time!
Also, scanning tends to accentuate film grain. Plus, I agree that a 400 speed film willl have visible grain.
Hey, don't give up. Keep at it. You'll have a great time!
Warren T.
Well-known
The others' comments are good. The full size shot looks great. You will always see grain, especially using 400 film, when you view at 100%. It shouldn't matter when printed. The scratches, spots, and imperfections that you see are likely to be dust on the negative and/or scanning surface. That's the "gotcha" in scanning negatives, you need to make sure that all the surfaces involved are clean, and even then, you'll still need to do some spotting or touch-up in your photo editing software.
Keep testing and trying, it looks pretty good already!
--Warren
Keep testing and trying, it looks pretty good already!
--Warren
ls7corvete
Member
Yea thats what I am worried about, as I plan to sell this camera soon. I already overpaid and to see this when the lens was stated as scratch free is disappointing.
Its been fixed actually so I am pretty happy but I do want a built in meter, see above.
These pictures really look bad just blowing the image up to the 19" size of my screen, I would expect more than 19" out of a scanned 6x9. The "full size" I posted is only 600x900 pixels, the graid definetly shouldnt show up in that! heh.
You guys are right about the "scratch" though it must be on the inner elements or something, I have had the shop I go to clean the lenses as well as me and it persists after 4 rolls, same spot same shape.
The lens is scratched, I can see it here
I guess its not showing up on film though. Which is a relief, I will most likely still return it as I cannot afford the drop in value of reselling a scratched lens.Thanks for the help, I will scan the rest of that B&W roll this weekend and see how it goes.
P
plexi
Guest
No, a scratch on any lens element will not look like that. There`s is no way you can see the scratch on your pictures. It`s more likely it`s a scratch on your scanners glass if you see it on other pictures.
If the camera functions fine, you have to consider how it`s exposed and developed first. And try it with a known good film, like Tri-X or HP5+, or a 100 speed film. Deciding anything based on what you have shown here would be just plain stupid, if you excuse my language.
6x9 should blow your mind with the resullts, if it don`t, it`s you doing something wrong, not the camera.
If the camera functions fine, you have to consider how it`s exposed and developed first. And try it with a known good film, like Tri-X or HP5+, or a 100 speed film. Deciding anything based on what you have shown here would be just plain stupid, if you excuse my language.
6x9 should blow your mind with the resullts, if it don`t, it`s you doing something wrong, not the camera.
ls7corvete
Member
plexi said:
I can see the scratch on the lens, not those pictures. I agree what I posted in the pictures is not a scratch.
The scanners dead, so I am putting the blame on it until I can test with something else. With any luck I will be able to use the imacon at school this week. No use switching film when I know my scanner has been misfunctioning.
P
plexi
Guest
Sounds like a plan. I`d still try another film though...
ls7corvete
Member
Bah, the photo nazis at school wont let me use the imacon, they say there is too much demand to let in non-major sudents. The digital lab looked abandoned to me.
Soooo
bad news:
scanner dead, no imacon, gonna have to send in for warranty, pita.
going to try and negotiate a partial refund or exchange on current camera, we will see how that goes.
Good news:
There seems to be a nice GW670III in the area so I can see the camera before buying.
Soooo
bad news:
scanner dead, no imacon, gonna have to send in for warranty, pita.
going to try and negotiate a partial refund or exchange on current camera, we will see how that goes.
Good news:
There seems to be a nice GW670III in the area so I can see the camera before buying.
