Rhodes
Time Lord
Selected the finest (imho) ones to show. This time I used 500 ml of solution, 4,95 ml of rodinal.
Iso 200, one hour stand, gentle agitation during the first minute and rest!
Iso 200, one hour stand, gentle agitation during the first minute and rest!
paulfish4570
Veteran
What lovely tonal range ...
kg4nih
Established
Here are 3 of mine. These were taken during the February snow storm here in Virginia. All are from the same roll of XP-2 (EI 250) developed in rodinal 1:100, slow inversions for the first 60 seconds and then 1 hour stand.
Lily watching the snow
Lily's view
And a night shot of the same view
Lily watching the snow
Lily's view
And a night shot of the same view
Rhodes
Time Lord
Ah snow, it's a pitty that it doesn't snow here during the winter! Lovely shots!
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Beautiful tones.
Can you elaborate "500 ml of solution, 4,95 ml of rodinal." Is this in a patterson tank ?
Can you elaborate "500 ml of solution, 4,95 ml of rodinal." Is this in a patterson tank ?
kg4nih
Established
Thanks Rhodes. Not near the range of tones in yours. But then again the light was pretty flat.
What camera/lens did you use.
I find that both XP-2x and BW400 turn out very well in when developed in non-C41. They scan great and you can use digital ICE.
Here's BW400 (EI 250) in HC110-h (+ a dash of rodinal) for 11.5 minutes.
What camera/lens did you use.
I find that both XP-2x and BW400 turn out very well in when developed in non-C41. They scan great and you can use digital ICE.
Here's BW400 (EI 250) in HC110-h (+ a dash of rodinal) for 11.5 minutes.
maggieo
More Deadly
Boy, these shots do look great! Seeing as how C-41 machines seem to be dropping like flies around town, I'm going to have to try this out.
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
Here are 3 of mine. These were taken during the February snow storm here in Virginia. All are from the same roll of XP-2 (EI 250) developed in rodinal 1:100, slow inversions for the first 60 seconds and then 1 hour stand.
Lily watching the snow
Lily's view
And a night shot of the same view
wow I loved the last night shot!!
Rhodes
Time Lord
Yes, it is. Normally for one roll I use 300 ml of solution in both my tanks (patterson or jobo). The 500ml is for 2 rolls in the paterson (or one 120
). At 100+1 for 300ml, its 2,97 ml of rodinal. This time wanted to try more rodinal.kg4nih, I had a bad experience with kodak BW400 in rodinal, the only one I tried come out extremally bad. I though that this method didn't work, but i begining to think that my exposures were completly wrong.
Used my hanimex 35EE (chinon ce-2 rebrand) and a exacta 35-70 MC macro zoom lens, that normally it's very soft. Got to try also night shots!
kg4nih
Established
Rhodes - Here's RRF member Charjohncarter's HC110 recipe that I used for the BW400 (EI250). The developed film was a very deep, almost opaque, orange. But it scanned fine when I locked the film base color in Vuescan.
HC110-h + Rodinal: 8ml HC110 (US syrup), 492ml water, + 2.5ml Rodinal (optional), 68 degrees F, 30 seconds initial agitation, then agitate 3 inversions each five minutes, 11:30 minutes total.
LeicaFoReVer - the night shot was just done on a lark. We were snowed in for days. Here's another on Tri-X (EI 250) in rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour (stand).
HC110-h + Rodinal: 8ml HC110 (US syrup), 492ml water, + 2.5ml Rodinal (optional), 68 degrees F, 30 seconds initial agitation, then agitate 3 inversions each five minutes, 11:30 minutes total.
LeicaFoReVer - the night shot was just done on a lark. We were snowed in for days. Here's another on Tri-X (EI 250) in rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour (stand).
Last edited:
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
What do you mean by "1 hour (stand)"?
I'm just getting into the developing thing, have my second roll drying in the bathroom, and I'm trying to learn all the lingo. All I really understand of the wordage is what my instructor and I have talked about and what is written on the developer box. Lingo used from other brands, I havn't gotten to yet so my vocabulary is still growing.
I'm just getting into the developing thing, have my second roll drying in the bathroom, and I'm trying to learn all the lingo. All I really understand of the wordage is what my instructor and I have talked about and what is written on the developer box. Lingo used from other brands, I havn't gotten to yet so my vocabulary is still growing.
Papercut
Well-known
"stand development" refers to developing without agitation, or more usually with agitation only at the start (say, 30 seconds to a minute of inversions) and then leaving it just "stand" for the remaining time.
EDIT: some people still do some agitation during development, but it is minimal, e.g., one or two inversions every 5 minutes or the like. As with everything in photography, there's a lot of variation in practice.
It is usually done with highly dilute solutions (a common one being 1 part Rodinal to 99 parts water) and for long times (say, one hour or more).
I use it as a "push process" method: to develop film that is severely underexposed (i.e., deliberately exposed as if it is rated for a higher ISO than it is), as it can help bring out detail in the shadows that normal development (normal dilutions, normal agitation, and normal times) would fail to do. Some people also report that it is relatively temperature insensitive, so that too adds some convenience.
EDIT: some people still do some agitation during development, but it is minimal, e.g., one or two inversions every 5 minutes or the like. As with everything in photography, there's a lot of variation in practice.
It is usually done with highly dilute solutions (a common one being 1 part Rodinal to 99 parts water) and for long times (say, one hour or more).
I use it as a "push process" method: to develop film that is severely underexposed (i.e., deliberately exposed as if it is rated for a higher ISO than it is), as it can help bring out detail in the shadows that normal development (normal dilutions, normal agitation, and normal times) would fail to do. Some people also report that it is relatively temperature insensitive, so that too adds some convenience.
Last edited:
paulfish4570
Veteran
I like they way highlights are held instead of lost. This is something I might try as the learning curve flattens ...
Papercut
Well-known
yeah, i should have mentioned that in my explanation: it can develop the shadows without over-cooking the highlights (once the developer is exhausted there it's done and without agitation to bring more into contact with that part of the negative it more or less stops developing).
In practice, it's not always so neat and tidy for me. I've had some negatives sort of go "nuclear" in the highlights, but I put this down to the fact that I mistakenly exposed for the shadows, when I should have been exposing for the brighter areas instead.
It's worth a try as it's dead simple to do, really -- with Rodinal and a syringe it's easier than normal development imo.
In practice, it's not always so neat and tidy for me. I've had some negatives sort of go "nuclear" in the highlights, but I put this down to the fact that I mistakenly exposed for the shadows, when I should have been exposing for the brighter areas instead.
It's worth a try as it's dead simple to do, really -- with Rodinal and a syringe it's easier than normal development imo.
kg4nih
Established
Pirate - go to the rodinal 1:100 thread on this site. Lots of good ideas on stand and semi-stand development.
For rodinal 1:100 I use P. Lynn Miller's early approach referenced in the thread - 60 seconds of slow inversions at the beginning and rest without touching for 60 minutes. I do this at room temperature - about 68 F.
There are several variations mentioned in the thread. This one just seemed the simplest so I tried it first.
For rodinal 1:100 I use P. Lynn Miller's early approach referenced in the thread - 60 seconds of slow inversions at the beginning and rest without touching for 60 minutes. I do this at room temperature - about 68 F.
There are several variations mentioned in the thread. This one just seemed the simplest so I tried it first.
robklurfield
eclipse
I've got a roll of neopan 400 120 in 1:100 right now. about halfway through its hour in the soup. easy to do and seems to have little dependence on variations in temperature (good thing here in the Northeastern US today).
alfredian
Well-known
Stop & fix?
Stop & fix?
I'm hooked, but how does one stop & fix C-41 negs? Do you need the bleach + fixer made for C-41, or will generic B&W fixer work? Thanks
Stop & fix?
I'm hooked, but how does one stop & fix C-41 negs? Do you need the bleach + fixer made for C-41, or will generic B&W fixer work? Thanks
Rhodes
Time Lord
No, normal stop bath or water or none and normal b&w fixer. I use ilford rapid fixer! And I think I used destiled water as "stop" bath.
kg4nih
Established
Same for me.
alfredian
Well-known
Thanks - I'll give it a go
Thanks - I'll give it a go
Thanks- I'll snag a roll each of XP-2 and BW400, the latter before Kodak closes the big yellow box. I was at a high school reunion this last weekend in Upstate New York. The Rochester Democrat & Chronicle I read in the local coffee shop was all agog at "takeover" rumors surrounding Kodak.
Thanks - I'll give it a go
Thanks- I'll snag a roll each of XP-2 and BW400, the latter before Kodak closes the big yellow box. I was at a high school reunion this last weekend in Upstate New York. The Rochester Democrat & Chronicle I read in the local coffee shop was all agog at "takeover" rumors surrounding Kodak.