Nando
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raid said:
Well various reasons. I was specifically quoting a song called "Coimbra" made famous by the Queen of Fado, Amália Rodrigues. The song was originally about the city, student life (it has one of the oldest universities in Europe and up until the 20th century, it was the only university in Portugal) and, of course, love. It pretty much captures the spirit of the city.
Coimbra do Choupal,body
Ainda és capital
De amor em Portugal,
Ainda és capital.
Coimbra, onde uma vez
Com lágrimas se fez
A história dessa Inês tão linda
Coimbra das canções
Tão meigas que nos pões
Os nossos corações à luz.
Coimbra dos doctores,
Pra nós os seus cantores
A fonte de amor és tu.
Coimbra e uma lição de sonho e tradição.
O lente e uma canção e a lua a faculdade.
O livro é uma mulher só passa quem souber
E aprende-se a dizer saudade.
I found this very literal English translation on the net.
Coimbra of the Choupal,
Thou art still capital
Of love in Portugal,
Thou art still capital.
Coimbra, where once upon a time
With tears took place
The story of that Inês so lovely.
Coimbra of the songs
So tender that thou turnest
Our hearts to the light.
Coimbra of the professors,
For us, thy singers,
The fountain of love art thou.
Coimbra is a lesson of dreams and tradition.
The lens is a song and the moon is the faculty.
The book is a lady. Whoever just passes knows
And learns to say ‘saudade’.
(Source webpage)
The 'Choupal' is a countryside near Coimbra on the banks of the Mondego river - there is just a bit of it left. The Inês reference is to the epic love story of Pedro and Inês. Pedro I was the heir to the throne. A marriage was arranged between him and a princess from Castile (now part of Spain). When she arrived, Pedro fell in love with a beautiful maiden that accompanied her - Inês. He married the princess anyway but later she died during childbirth. Pedro then wanted to marry Inês but his father forbade him. He lived and had children with Inês anyway. Then the King had Inês assassinated. The tormented Pedro went to war with his father, King Afonso IV, but lost. Later however, the King died and Pedro took the throne. Upon taking the throne, he had Inês' body dug up from the grave and seated her next to him proclaiming her the Queen of Portugal. He then made everyone in his father's court kiss her decomposed hand. The assassins were killed and supposedly Pedro ate their hearts. The place where Inês was assassinated is known as the Quinta das Lágrimas (Estate of Tears). Legend has it that a water spring developed at the spot of her assassination. It is known as the Fonte das Lágrimas (Spring of Tears), the water coming from the tears of Inês. This tragic love story left a mark on the city. Falling in love seems easier in Coimbra than in other places and love is above all else as learned from Pedro.
Here's a photograph I took from the Quinta das Lágrimas:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fgsemedo/1352274663/
Song is in reference to Coimbra's version of Fado music. The Fado of Coimbra is more formal and classical, the lyrics much deeper and powerful, and traditionaly performed by male university students and alumni. They dress in the traditional black capes. Fado of Coimbra is street music performed at night. Many times it is performed as a serenade to a woman. Love songs are mixed in with profound poetry from the likes of Zeca Afonso and Miguel Torga. So powerful is the content that during Salazar's fascist regime, many poets and performers risked imprisonment. The late Carlos Paredes, who was and still is the greatest Fado guitarist, was imprisoned for a very long time. Fado of Coimbra is just pure passion and emotion but at the same time extremely intellectual and influential.
Here's a photograph of students performing Fado of Coimbra:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fgsemedo/1162845321/
The last verse of the song really captures the experience. If one lives in this city, even for a short time, they will be forever changed. The last sentence says that one will learn to say 'saudade'. Saudade doesn't have an English translation - it is a feeling of longing, nostalgia, remembering better days... at the same time, a bit of disdain for the present situation, and a bit of fear for the future and knowing that one cannot go back and relive the past. It is both a happy and sad emotion. When I'm in Coimbra, I'm completely consumed by the city and I always find it hard to leave. When I'm in Canada, I can't stop thinking of it and I long to go back. When your surrounded by musicians, artists, poets, intellectuals, love-stricken and youthful students, tremendous history, and most of all, excellence everywhere and in everything, you can't help but be affected somehow.
So yes - Coimbra is the capital of love in Portugal. Love between a romantic couple and also love for your neighbour, love of art. love for learning, love of excellence, love for living... There are probably just as many songs about yearning for Coimbra as there are about wanting a woman.
The song "Coimbra" became an international hit but sadly when it was adapted for other languages, everything that had to do with Coimbra (the reference to Pedro and Ines, the university, love, sernades and saudade) was taken out. It became a meaningless pop-song. The English version of the song is called "April in Portugal" and was performed by Louis Armstong, Bing Crosby and many others.
BTW, if you really want to impress your significant other, book a romantic evening at the Palace of Bucaco - 20 minutes North of the Coimbra. It is in the middle of the most enchanting fairy-tale forest imaginable. (It was the King's hunting lodge)
A photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fgsemedo/1314298212/
The official website:
http://www.almeidahotels.com/nm_quemsomos.php?id=12&menu1=3
Sorry about the book but I get carried away when it comes to the city that I love.
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