xwhatsit
Well-known
My Lynx 1000 arrived this morning. As expected, it's in a lot worse condition than my immaculate (but POD'd) Electro GS that came a couple of days ago.
The selenium meter seems to be still working just fine. I haven't matched it against the Minister D yet (Lynx 1000 is match needle as opposed to the Minister D's LVS-style setup, but I can compare what shutter/aperture combination it picks), but it seems to be roughly right.
It came with a UV filter. Unfortunately the only reason I think it came with it is because it's stuck to the front lens group. Trying to unscrew the filter brought the front lens group off with it! :bang: I've got more lighter fluid than I know what to do with, is it safe to use to try and soak into the threads and loosen the thing off? I don't really care about the UV filter but I don't want to damage the lens coating.
The viewfinder was dirty, and the match needle was hard to see (although I can always use the gauge on top), but it all looked good until I tilted the camera sideways and the framing lines and rangefinder patch tilted 45 degrees and disappeared! Top plate is going to have to come off I think...
I tried working the shutter; at first it would only do what seemed around 1/500 and B, but after I worked it for a bit it freed up and started firing on all speeds. Dunno how accurate the 1/1000 speed is (blimey that's fast for a leaf shutter, isn't it?), can't really tell how much faster it is than the 1/500 in the Minister D. I assume that some dried lube was sticking the cams in the shutter in place or something and preventing shutter speed selection.
Unfortunately just before I went to go to work, it stopped wanting to wind on; the lever is now stuck about halfway.
I'm going to assume it's halfway between two states or something... I think it's sat around for years and it's sticking up, hence the shutter speed problem earlier.
Well this could be interesting! It's coming apart after I sort the Electro's POD.
When I get home some time tonight I need to take a photo of my three Yashica rangefinders. They make quite an impressive lineup!
The selenium meter seems to be still working just fine. I haven't matched it against the Minister D yet (Lynx 1000 is match needle as opposed to the Minister D's LVS-style setup, but I can compare what shutter/aperture combination it picks), but it seems to be roughly right.
It came with a UV filter. Unfortunately the only reason I think it came with it is because it's stuck to the front lens group. Trying to unscrew the filter brought the front lens group off with it! :bang: I've got more lighter fluid than I know what to do with, is it safe to use to try and soak into the threads and loosen the thing off? I don't really care about the UV filter but I don't want to damage the lens coating.
The viewfinder was dirty, and the match needle was hard to see (although I can always use the gauge on top), but it all looked good until I tilted the camera sideways and the framing lines and rangefinder patch tilted 45 degrees and disappeared! Top plate is going to have to come off I think...
I tried working the shutter; at first it would only do what seemed around 1/500 and B, but after I worked it for a bit it freed up and started firing on all speeds. Dunno how accurate the 1/1000 speed is (blimey that's fast for a leaf shutter, isn't it?), can't really tell how much faster it is than the 1/500 in the Minister D. I assume that some dried lube was sticking the cams in the shutter in place or something and preventing shutter speed selection.
Unfortunately just before I went to go to work, it stopped wanting to wind on; the lever is now stuck about halfway.
I'm going to assume it's halfway between two states or something... I think it's sat around for years and it's sticking up, hence the shutter speed problem earlier.Well this could be interesting! It's coming apart after I sort the Electro's POD.
When I get home some time tonight I need to take a photo of my three Yashica rangefinders. They make quite an impressive lineup!
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
Is it possible that there is a roll of film still in it from a previous owner?
Russ
xwhatsit
Well-known
No, haha, only going to have that interesting discovery with the Electro it would seem.
I opened the door almost as soon as I got it to fire on B so I could check the lens condition (not bad without the front lens group, don't know what that will be like until I get this awful filthy UV filter off).
umcelinho
Marcelo
The Lynx 1000 is a lovely camera, I used my grandpa's for some time before I got my M6. The lens gives amazing renditions and the bokeh is lovely! The only thing that sucks a bit is that when low light shooting it is pretty hard to see the lightmeter. hope you have these issues sorted out and start enjoying it!
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
The other thing that I have found jamming the wind mechanism in the past is the window over the frame counter. Is that still in place?
Russ
Russ
xwhatsit
Well-known
Forgive me if I'm talking about the wrong thing, but if I understand correctly the Lynx 1000 doesn't have such a thing; it's got a round dial open to all elements just underneath the advance lever (almost like an oversized washer supporting it). It doesn't automatically reset when one opens the back door, you have to turn it back to where two red arrows line up, I gather this is normal.
At any rate this turns freely on its escapement/freewheel mechanism, as do the film sprockets and take-up reel.
The advance lever went halfway, I couldn't fire the shutter yet as it wasn't all the way. After some gentle fiddling I could eventually fire the shutter but the wind lever still wouldn't move. I think it's halfway between states and it needs to be `reset', if you will. Perhaps I'll see the reason when I remove the top plate?
Thanks once again for all the help, Russ, you've been invaluable with my first three weeks or so of broken Yashicas
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
Yeah, you're right...I was thinking about the 5000 and up. I have a 1000, but I haven't dug into it yet.
There could still be something loose rolling around inside that got jammed somewhere. Taking the top and bottom off should reveal a lot!
Thanks for the compliment, by the way...
Russ
There could still be something loose rolling around inside that got jammed somewhere. Taking the top and bottom off should reveal a lot!
Thanks for the compliment, by the way...
Russ
xwhatsit
Well-known
Well, started pulling it to bits (waiting for the glue to dry on the new pad for my Electro). When I pulled the top off, a little fragment of glass fell out. I gently started wiggling the advance lever both ways (holding the little pawls back so that the wind lever could go both ways). Eventually it freed up, making horrible grinding noises, which made me stop. I think there was some glass in the advance mechanism.
The rangefinder assembly is going to have to come apart, I can't see what's wrong with it yet but obviously there's something very wrong. Would explain the brightlines and rangefinder patch flopping all around. There's not a lot out there about the Lynx 1000, so hopefully the Lynx 5000 stuff mostly applies, it looks similar.
The aperture is also a little bit stuck. The ring feels fairly loose and floppy, and it works fine most of the time but sometimes it can get sort of wedged in a particular range and I have to keep turning it back and forward until it starts working again. Possibly some kind of debris trapping that as well.
The foam gaskets on the VF etc. are completely poozed.
Looks like a longer job than the others!
EDIT: On a positive note, finally got the UV filter unstuck from the front lens group. Dabbed a little lighter fluid around the thread and it eventually came unstuck. The glass looks absolutely flawless. Even more reason to get this sad little thing up and running.
The rangefinder assembly is going to have to come apart, I can't see what's wrong with it yet but obviously there's something very wrong. Would explain the brightlines and rangefinder patch flopping all around. There's not a lot out there about the Lynx 1000, so hopefully the Lynx 5000 stuff mostly applies, it looks similar.
The aperture is also a little bit stuck. The ring feels fairly loose and floppy, and it works fine most of the time but sometimes it can get sort of wedged in a particular range and I have to keep turning it back and forward until it starts working again. Possibly some kind of debris trapping that as well.
The foam gaskets on the VF etc. are completely poozed.
Looks like a longer job than the others!
EDIT: On a positive note, finally got the UV filter unstuck from the front lens group. Dabbed a little lighter fluid around the thread and it eventually came unstuck. The glass looks absolutely flawless. Even more reason to get this sad little thing up and running.
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xwhatsit
Well-known
Sorry for all the posting, just helpful to keep a log!
Took the entire VF/RF assembly off. That was easy. Found the culprit of the moving framelines; the little 45-degree mirror (fully silvered) that reflects the framelines had come unglued and was floating around.
Chunks of glass still continue to fall out of the thing, and I think I finally figured out where they're coming from. Looks like there's a space at the back of the meter assembly for a long thin strip of mirror to reflect light through through the frameline reflector (there's see-through bits in that mirror to let through such a thing along with the rangefinder spot). If that's all it is I'll be happy, I can just look at the needle on top. Might try to rig something up though.
Attached some pics of the VF/RF assembly, apologies for the shots, it's hard to take a useful photo with a laptop webcam.
Took the entire VF/RF assembly off. That was easy. Found the culprit of the moving framelines; the little 45-degree mirror (fully silvered) that reflects the framelines had come unglued and was floating around.
Chunks of glass still continue to fall out of the thing, and I think I finally figured out where they're coming from. Looks like there's a space at the back of the meter assembly for a long thin strip of mirror to reflect light through through the frameline reflector (there's see-through bits in that mirror to let through such a thing along with the rangefinder spot). If that's all it is I'll be happy, I can just look at the needle on top. Might try to rig something up though.
Attached some pics of the VF/RF assembly, apologies for the shots, it's hard to take a useful photo with a laptop webcam.
Attachments
Ken Smith
Why yes Ma'am - it folds
Had the same problem with mine. I replaced the small mirrored strip with a reflective section from a disposable dentist's tooth mirror. You can buy them at Walmart or any drug store. I cut it to size and glued in place. Works like a charm - reflects the meter's needle perfectly.
xwhatsit
Well-known
Wonderful! Thanks for the information. I'll give that a go. I was going to use one of the small remaining fragments but I didn't think it would be big enough.
Time to look up how to cut glass.
xwhatsit
Well-known
It's back together now!
Took a while, as I was trying to track down a suitable bit of mirror to reflect light from the exposure meter into the VF. Couldn't find anything, it's very thin; couldn't find any dentist's mirrors, heh. Until I saw on Yashica Guy's website -- he said it was a common problem, and that he'd used shim stock or even aluminium foil with good results! I tried a bit of aluminium foil (carefully smoothed out first of course) and it worked perfectly. Maybe a little dimmer than how it was from the factory, but it's just to reflect light over the needle, not to reflect the needle itself.
Glued on the other loose bits of glass and mirror -- the frameline reflector and the little green glass for the needle overlay. Adjusted RF positioning too.
Really thoroughly cleaned advance mechanism using lighter fluid. Got all the bits of crunched glass out of it. Was still a bit tardy to spring back after winding but with a thorough cleaning it's right.
Funny aperture nonsense seemed to be due to dirt or oil on the aperture blades. Shutter was absolutely fine, but aperture would get stuck. Did the lighter-fluid trick again on the aperture blades and it was fine, until it dried out and it would stop opening up to f1.8 again. Repeated application sorted it.
Everything's back together now. Haven't tested it yet; want to try and clean the rear element of the lens first, it's a little hazy (but not really bad at all), might use some ammonia just in case there is fungus starting there. Doesn't look like fungus though. The front group is absolutely clean and clear as a brand-new one. So I'll sort that then stick a roll of film through it.
The selenium meter is a little tricky. It seems to stop working entirely if the light falls below a certain level. I heard they weren't as good as CdS for low-light, but wasn't expecting it to drop off that quickly (maybe between 6 and 8 LV at 100ISO). I'm using my Minister D as a reference, as the CdS meter seems to expose perfectly when compared to my friend's fancy SLR; the Lynx seems to overexpose between 1 and (more often) 2 stops. This is not the end of the world, I would just set the film speed a stop or two lower on the camera (it goes right down to 16ASA, so that's more than adequate for the 400 and 200 film I've been using). I see Yashica Guy shows how to change the resistor in the circuit to adjust the meter; however the meter still seems a little imprecise and not always consistent, so I may not bother with the meter anyway. Oh well, maybe I'll try and learn Sunny 16 (heading into autumn here in Auckland, going to be Sunny 8 very shortly!). Or just buy one of the little Sekonics which I see for $NZ10 all the time.
All in all I'm quite pleased. Hardy little camera. Can't wait to stick a roll of film through it. It's easily the nicest `feeling' of my three Yashicas; the film advance is a little clicky but much better than the Minister D (and doesn't have the awful noisy clunk of the Electro); focus feels wonderful and solid; it's heavy like the Minister D and the Electro but quite a bit smaller than both so it feels really solid, like a little chrome nugget. But most of all the shutter release is absolutely delightful, I can't wait to try a Leica one day if they think there's anything better than this. Tripping the shutter is the most satisfying feeling
Took a while, as I was trying to track down a suitable bit of mirror to reflect light from the exposure meter into the VF. Couldn't find anything, it's very thin; couldn't find any dentist's mirrors, heh. Until I saw on Yashica Guy's website -- he said it was a common problem, and that he'd used shim stock or even aluminium foil with good results! I tried a bit of aluminium foil (carefully smoothed out first of course) and it worked perfectly. Maybe a little dimmer than how it was from the factory, but it's just to reflect light over the needle, not to reflect the needle itself.
Glued on the other loose bits of glass and mirror -- the frameline reflector and the little green glass for the needle overlay. Adjusted RF positioning too.
Really thoroughly cleaned advance mechanism using lighter fluid. Got all the bits of crunched glass out of it. Was still a bit tardy to spring back after winding but with a thorough cleaning it's right.
Funny aperture nonsense seemed to be due to dirt or oil on the aperture blades. Shutter was absolutely fine, but aperture would get stuck. Did the lighter-fluid trick again on the aperture blades and it was fine, until it dried out and it would stop opening up to f1.8 again. Repeated application sorted it.
Everything's back together now. Haven't tested it yet; want to try and clean the rear element of the lens first, it's a little hazy (but not really bad at all), might use some ammonia just in case there is fungus starting there. Doesn't look like fungus though. The front group is absolutely clean and clear as a brand-new one. So I'll sort that then stick a roll of film through it.
The selenium meter is a little tricky. It seems to stop working entirely if the light falls below a certain level. I heard they weren't as good as CdS for low-light, but wasn't expecting it to drop off that quickly (maybe between 6 and 8 LV at 100ISO). I'm using my Minister D as a reference, as the CdS meter seems to expose perfectly when compared to my friend's fancy SLR; the Lynx seems to overexpose between 1 and (more often) 2 stops. This is not the end of the world, I would just set the film speed a stop or two lower on the camera (it goes right down to 16ASA, so that's more than adequate for the 400 and 200 film I've been using). I see Yashica Guy shows how to change the resistor in the circuit to adjust the meter; however the meter still seems a little imprecise and not always consistent, so I may not bother with the meter anyway. Oh well, maybe I'll try and learn Sunny 16 (heading into autumn here in Auckland, going to be Sunny 8 very shortly!). Or just buy one of the little Sekonics which I see for $NZ10 all the time.
All in all I'm quite pleased. Hardy little camera. Can't wait to stick a roll of film through it. It's easily the nicest `feeling' of my three Yashicas; the film advance is a little clicky but much better than the Minister D (and doesn't have the awful noisy clunk of the Electro); focus feels wonderful and solid; it's heavy like the Minister D and the Electro but quite a bit smaller than both so it feels really solid, like a little chrome nugget. But most of all the shutter release is absolutely delightful, I can't wait to try a Leica one day if they think there's anything better than this. Tripping the shutter is the most satisfying feeling
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OMboy
Established
Great info xwhatsit - I have recently picked up a Lynx 14 which will need a good clean but, like yours, looks in fantastic condition.
My rangefinder works fine but the shutter is sticky - did you just dive in or use some service details to follow while you stripped your Lynx 1000...?
My rangefinder works fine but the shutter is sticky - did you just dive in or use some service details to follow while you stripped your Lynx 1000...?
xwhatsit
Well-known
Definitely hit up Yashica Guy's website, it's absolutely brilliant and very useful.
After fixing the sticky shutter on the Minister D with the help of this forum, I found the Lynx was pretty similar when I wanted to free up the aperture. You don't really any service information. All you have to do is get the front lens group off, I used a rubber mousepad as a friction grip on the little inner ring to unscrew the front element. I then just dripped some Zippo lighter onto some q-tips and cleaned the exposed shutter blades. No real stripping-down required.
Hope it works out for you! I'm very keen to get my mitts on a 14!
btgc
Veteran
Lighter fluid usually helps, though shuttr and aperture blades tend to stick over time, or just get sluggish. I think fluid trick trovides remedy when blades are stuck from decades of non-use. If they aren't clean, await next visit into shutter.
OMboy
Established
Thanks for all the info - it's so nice to have a project continuation in a thread instead of the usual 'my YashZuikoNikon is playing up' followed by 'it's OK, I fixed it'...
xwhatsit
Well-known
Well, just as a further follow-up, and this is an annoying one,
Have shot maybe 5 rolls in the thing. Lovely camera. However, I saw one or two double-exposures recently, which was a worry. Then on the last roll, it felt like I'd torn the film when advancing the last frame or two. I was still able to rewind the film, so it was saved (although again some double-exposures), but on opening it up, I noticed that the film advance sprocket was sometimes slipping! I could wind the advance lever but the advance sprocket would simply drag.
I thought it might've been a broken gear due to the broken glass scattered throughout the mechanism. I pulled off the top and bottom plates, gave everything a good cleanout (shock horror! I (very carefully) greased the gears and pawls in the top and bottom too!), but nothing appeared to be broken. It appears to wind perfectly now.
Quite disappointing not finding the root cause, makes me a little wary of the camera now. All I can assume is that there was a glass particle or similar trapped holding open a ratchet/pawl or something under certain circumstances, and by opening it up and cleaning it thoroughly I've sorted it. On the positive side, greasing the gears have made the film advance just as silky smooth and precise as the shutter release. By using grease (in small quantities too) I'm hoping the grease won't creep into places where it's not wanted.
Have shot maybe 5 rolls in the thing. Lovely camera. However, I saw one or two double-exposures recently, which was a worry. Then on the last roll, it felt like I'd torn the film when advancing the last frame or two. I was still able to rewind the film, so it was saved (although again some double-exposures), but on opening it up, I noticed that the film advance sprocket was sometimes slipping! I could wind the advance lever but the advance sprocket would simply drag.
I thought it might've been a broken gear due to the broken glass scattered throughout the mechanism. I pulled off the top and bottom plates, gave everything a good cleanout (shock horror! I (very carefully) greased the gears and pawls in the top and bottom too!), but nothing appeared to be broken. It appears to wind perfectly now.
Quite disappointing not finding the root cause, makes me a little wary of the camera now. All I can assume is that there was a glass particle or similar trapped holding open a ratchet/pawl or something under certain circumstances, and by opening it up and cleaning it thoroughly I've sorted it. On the positive side, greasing the gears have made the film advance just as silky smooth and precise as the shutter release. By using grease (in small quantities too) I'm hoping the grease won't creep into places where it's not wanted.
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
Did you check that the screw in the center of the large gear was tight? (This is a 5000, but it should be similar)
Russ
Russ
xwhatsit
Well-known
No I did not! I'll take a look at that. I assume if it's loose, the pawl on top won't align with the smaller gear and thus slip? Thanks as always for the advice.
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
It happened to me on the first Lynx 5000 that I restored. Took a one hour drive up the Connecticut coast to test it out. Took three pictures and it wouldn't advance the film. :bang:
The lever moved normally, but you could tell that it wasn't connected anymore.
Good luck with it!
Russ
The lever moved normally, but you could tell that it wasn't connected anymore.
Good luck with it!
Russ