nksyoon
Well-known
Here are some pics from my "new" Horizont, scanned with Minolta 5400:
I've also noticed some light leaks - vertical stripes - on some pictures. Any tips on how to avoid this? Keep the front lens slit pointed away from the sun?
Bottom left, and top center pictures have this vertical stripe.
I've also noticed some light leaks - vertical stripes - on some pictures. Any tips on how to avoid this? Keep the front lens slit pointed away from the sun?
Bottom left, and top center pictures have this vertical stripe.
ethics_gradient
Well-known
Nice shots! I saw one of those (the older, aluminum chassis one like you have) at a photo market when I was living in Beijing. I wasn't sure what they were worth so I went home and looked it up, realized it was a good deal, and of course it was gone when I went back later in the week :-\
I'm no expert, but I'd agree that the light is probably coming in through the slit when the camera isn't in operation... maybe you could make a DIY "lens cap" for it when not in use?
I'm no expert, but I'd agree that the light is probably coming in through the slit when the camera isn't in operation... maybe you could make a DIY "lens cap" for it when not in use?
laptoprob
back to basics
Mine is in in and out of repair for exactly the same leaks. They are 'traditional' for the Horizont. I do hope mine can be fixed. It is indeed a leak around the lens drum. It should be able to be done.
Can you scan them in one operation? My 35mm scanner can't do the 56mm (?) width of the negative, so I stitch them.
Can you scan them in one operation? My 35mm scanner can't do the 56mm (?) width of the negative, so I stitch them.
nksyoon
Well-known
Maybe I should put the camera in the case when I'm not actually taking a shot. I see the case has a slot so that the camera with grip attached fits into the case. Or into whatever bag I'm using that day.
marke
Well-known
Very cool shots. Now I want to get one of these.
sjw617
Panoramist
I don't think you have a light leak. The slit should be 'hidden' when it is at rest. The banding looks like the swing is not smooth and hanging up for a time. You should shoot some without film and watch the swing movment.
Is it a new or used camera? Does the spring have a kink in it? Is it a certain speed that it bands?
Steve
Is it a new or used camera? Does the spring have a kink in it? Is it a certain speed that it bands?
Steve
nksyoon
Well-known
The slit is not hidden at rest. Is this normal?
If you look at the picture of my screen, you can see the shots immediately after are of the same scene and would have the same exposure and they don't show the light leak.
fuzk
Established
Very very nice shots! I have one of these myself and if I remember correctly, I THINK the problem is called banding.. or something like that. I have a really bad memory. Haha.
I'm just wondering, do you know the focusing distance or depth of field for the various apertures? The old lady in your 2nd pic looks to be really sharp. Can't say the same for some of my pics. Haha.
I'm just wondering, do you know the focusing distance or depth of field for the various apertures? The old lady in your 2nd pic looks to be really sharp. Can't say the same for some of my pics. Haha.
nksyoon
Well-known
That was probably at f11 or f16. She was about a meter away.
According to this page, DOF at f11 is 1.5m to infinity, and at f16 it's 1m to infinity.
http://www.zenit.istra.ru/mans/horizon/horizon.html
There's also a possible modification to bring the plane of focus nearer by using Dymo tape as a spacer on the film rails, as described here:
http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=pancams&msg=65.1
laptoprob
back to basics
leak
leak
Yes, the lens slit is opened at both ends, both cocked and released. The position of the leak stripes corresponds with the width of the 'shutter' slit near the film. It shows at equal lengths at both ends. If you google for examples you will find more of these leaks. Annoying but common.
It depends on the time exposed ofcourse. If you cover the front quickly there will be hardly any or no leak.
Mine is in and out of repaird because the first repair shop didn't know what to do. I had the shop send it there because the guy had stated he knows these cameras and how to fix this. Obviously he doesn't.
leak
Yes, the lens slit is opened at both ends, both cocked and released. The position of the leak stripes corresponds with the width of the 'shutter' slit near the film. It shows at equal lengths at both ends. If you google for examples you will find more of these leaks. Annoying but common.
It depends on the time exposed ofcourse. If you cover the front quickly there will be hardly any or no leak.
Mine is in and out of repaird because the first repair shop didn't know what to do. I had the shop send it there because the guy had stated he knows these cameras and how to fix this. Obviously he doesn't.
MickH
Well-known
I think Steve means it's up to you to hide the open slit. I have a Horizon 202 and the slit is always visible. I put it in a bag to keep it nice & dark and dust-free when I'm "resting" it.
BTW I wish I could get nice sharp pix like you.
Note to self: Must try harder.
sjw617
Panoramist
No Mick, I thought the slit went into the body when the shot was taken. Further research confirms I am wrong.
I have an old Russian FT2 (24 x 110) and the slit is in the body after a shot and when it is cocked.
I think that the banding does not appear with the second or third shot because there is not much time to 'let the light gather'.
The easiest solution is to cover the barrel when not actually taking a picture.
Steve
x-ray
Veteran
I had a widelux that was in the shop regularly due to banding. I also have a 60's vintage Horizont that's never had a problem. The slit on both cameras is behind the lens and varies in gap with the shutter speed set. On the older model like I have the drum rotates at a constant speed as does the widelux and the width of the slit determines shutter speed. Your problem is not light leaking in it's dirt or a rough gear in the shutter mechanism. I've seen it many times with the widelux. Notice the stripe is not at the beginning or end of the frame where the slit would be before or after exposure. It's partially in the frame and shows over exposure at that point which indicates the drum is slowing down or stuttering. My guess is a rough spot in a gear since it happens in the same place every time.
The slit in front of the lens is only a mask to restrict light from flaring and has nothing to do with the exposure system.
The slit in front of the lens is only a mask to restrict light from flaring and has nothing to do with the exposure system.
sharkymachine
Newbie
Xpan shots Surat Thani in Thailand
Xpan shots Surat Thani in Thailand
Travelled to this remote place in Thailand to experience a week of no electricity, no water supply stay , and do some fishing in this fresh water dam in Surat Thani.
Really enjoy the peace and remoteness of this place
Xpan shots Surat Thani in Thailand
Travelled to this remote place in Thailand to experience a week of no electricity, no water supply stay , and do some fishing in this fresh water dam in Surat Thani.
Really enjoy the peace and remoteness of this place
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Nice shots!
Having said this, these cameras are notoriously unreliable and hard to fix. I borrowed one from a friend, Mike Shushakov, in Moscow in about 1990. At the time he was Photographer to the Supreme Soviet. He ordered a case of Horizonts (6 or 12, I can't remember) and kept the least unreliable. When he lent it to me for a trip to St.Petersburg, he said, 'Always take two or three shots of anything important, because otherwise there's a risk of banding' -- which as others have said is the result of erratic movement of the drum, not light leaks.
If the Photographer to the Supreme Soviet couldn't get a reliable one, what hope is there for the rest of us?
Cheers,
R.
Having said this, these cameras are notoriously unreliable and hard to fix. I borrowed one from a friend, Mike Shushakov, in Moscow in about 1990. At the time he was Photographer to the Supreme Soviet. He ordered a case of Horizonts (6 or 12, I can't remember) and kept the least unreliable. When he lent it to me for a trip to St.Petersburg, he said, 'Always take two or three shots of anything important, because otherwise there's a risk of banding' -- which as others have said is the result of erratic movement of the drum, not light leaks.
If the Photographer to the Supreme Soviet couldn't get a reliable one, what hope is there for the rest of us?
Cheers,
R.
Harold Gough
Established
I have had no problem with banding. (The slit is visible at all times). I probably always put it back in its case fairly quickly. However, the film advance sometimes advances only about 35mm of film, resulting in about half a (2002) frame of double exposure. This is another reason for taking more than one shot.
My camera, imported new from Russia 4-5 years ago, has always felt (plastic body) and sounded (film advance and shutter) like it would break at any moment. I bought it when I couldn't afford an X-pan. I now use it only where the extra-wide field is essential.
I find the image quality good.
My camera, imported new from Russia 4-5 years ago, has always felt (plastic body) and sounded (film advance and shutter) like it would break at any moment. I bought it when I couldn't afford an X-pan. I now use it only where the extra-wide field is essential.
I find the image quality good.
laptoprob
back to basics
Since my visti to South Africa last january my original metal Horizont has been fixed. And I have scanned my slides. Took quite a lot of cleaning up, those slides. Clean processing is difficult nowadays.
Take a look at laptoprob.tk.
Take a look at laptoprob.tk.
MickH
Well-known
They are pretty good. I especially like
They are all very sharp compared to what comes out of my H 202. Are they hand-held?
They are all very sharp compared to what comes out of my H 202. Are they hand-held?