My Noctilux Diary

[maddoc]

From Tokyo (M5, E100VS film) ...

 

[rickp]

thanks, gabor. i'm motivated to keep trying, and having good examples from you all helps quite a bit. your tokyo work brings back many nice memories.

cheers

rick

 

[maddoc]

Nagoya (from the 44th floor of the Marriott) @ f/1.0

 

[Krosya]

Very cool view! I wonder how this would look if you took this shot with 21mm lens?

 

[maddoc]

krosya, thanks !!

I would have liked to take this one with a 21mm lens, but still don't know if my SA-M 21/3.4 is modified to be mounted on the M5. (... OK , I already had four month to check for this ... :bang so I left the lens at home ...

 

[Krosya]

See, this is why I'm glad I went with Avenon 21/2.8 when I did, because now that I got M5, it works great with it, while has similar signature to SA21 and extra speed is an added bonus! Anyway, hope you will sort out your 21 to work on m5.

 

[maddoc]

When I bought my SA, I didn't even consider getting an M5 ... The Kobalux / Avenon 21/2.8 is a better choice regarding this. Oh well ...

 

[deepwhite]

After trying out the f1.0 aperture, the next thing a speed-seeker can think of is:

ISO3200.

So I tried it out. The Ilford Delta 3200.

It's not a good film if you're looking for technical correct. Yet for that "painterly effect", I think it's the extreme.

The problem is that, with the Noctilux, the real ISO of this film should be around 2000; not even 2500. That's why even I set the camera ISO setting to 2500, I still got a lot of under-exposed shots.

Yet due to the characteristics of this film, I think under-exposing might actually help the image. I prefer the dark shots over the light ones in this roll.

------

We are Noctilux lovers.

We are known for using this expensive lens to take pointless pictures.

Such as

Our dogs

Flowers

Gears

More from this roll later.

 

[cam]

Surprisingly I found that the R-D1s is very good, if not the best, for focusing with the Noctilux. The 1:1 VF really helps a lot. The 0.85 M7 is great too; the 0.72 Bessa R2A is good enough; the 0.6 Hexar RF is hard to use sometime, especially in very low light.

Later I found the different way to use the Noctilux with the R-D1s. The "logic" is totally different from using it on a film camera.

More on these later.

first -- thank you for starting up the thread again

secondly, please put me out of my misery and pass on ANY tips for shooting with an R-D1. i know i discussed with you earlier in the thread that i believe the Nocti looks better on film -- i still believe it's true, but all i have is my Epson.

i received the lens late yesterday afternoon and have already gone through the phases of: the lens is out of whack, my camera is out of whack, i'm out of whack, etc. i'm now thinking everything might be okay but me :bang:

tips and tricks for the learning stage that anyone wants to pass on are more than welcome as well as images to keep me going....

merci..

 

[Tim Gray]

The problem is that, with the Noctilux, the real ISO of this film should be around 2000; not even 2500. That's why even I set the camera ISO setting to 2500, I still got a lot of under-exposed shots.

I think the reason for that is the real ISO of this film is around 1000. You might get better results at 1600 than 3200. Also, I've heard lots on the internet that the times for Ilford 3200 are a bit light. That you should use the 6400 times if you developed at 3200. Don't quote me on that, since I use TMZ instead.

 

[deepwhite]

@ Tim - Thanks for the tips. I don't know how to develop films myself, but I'll remember what you said and ask the mister that develop my B/W film.

@ cam - Now I understand what you said in the Thailand Trip thread.

Congrats on this big purchase!

My 0.02 on Noctilux + R-D1:

- It's the best lens to get something out of nothing. Try shooting it in the nearly-no-light environment. The Epson will give you faithful but not exaggerated color.

- When needed, adjust the in-camera setting: sharpness and contrast +1. I don't suggest that you adjust the saturation and tint though (and the evil noise reduction!) for they tend to produce unnatural color.... (See my "One Noc in Beijing" thread and you'll understand.... That was a mistake.)

- When you finish composing your picture with the frameline, open your left eye to see what's coming from your right. The Noctilux blocks that part of the viewfinder. If you don't check you're likely to get a ghost in that corner.

- F1.0 + ISO1600 + B/W is very cool. Adjust the sharpness & contrast if you like.

If something comes up later, I'll add it here when I upload more photos.

 

[cam]

thank you!

i've already seen how amazing the something out of nothing is. shadows in seeming pitch black. it's hauntingly beautiful!

i will go check your other thread -- though i do tend to use RAW files. 1600 can get too water-colourish, even for me.

you'll hate me for saying this, but i bought an early version (1975 f/1) which is 58mm with a detachable hood. i can see the *entire* frame

 

[deepwhite]

you'll hate me for saying this, but i bought an early version (1975 f/1) which is 58mm with a detachable hood. i can see the *entire* frame

You got the E58 version?

Ok.

I hate you.

Go away.

As fast as you can.

And disappear in my frame.

No I'm just kidding. Congrats on the E58 Noctilux! Can't wait to see your Nocti-shots!

(All the above are Noctilux + Delta 3200. I thought I mis-focused the third shot, but then I realized that I was focusing the windows INSIDE the windows.)

 

[deepwhite]

[Waiting]

[Hence the Locks]

Someone tried to steal my car
Hence the locks

Someone really broke my heart
Hence the locks


Noctilux + Ilford Delta 3200

 

[deepwhite]

The last two shots from this roll. I think I'll buy some more Delta 3200 and really get to know it.

(Tim, you are right about this film. The mister that develops my film also told me to treat the Delta 3200 as ISO1000. Thanks for the tip!)

[Empty Seat] - my favorite subject

[A Well-Educated Tree]

In the following posts, I'm going to share with you my first experience with the Agfa APX400 film. Which I love very much now.

 

[deepwhite]

I got into photography very late (sometime last year), so I didn't have any experience with the old AGFA films.

But I'm glad they're back.

The "black color" from the APX400 is very "deep". I think the curve of this film changes a bit on the "dark side", thus giving it a sense of stronger contrast in the dark zone.

------

[Man in the Frame]

[In the Fraction of Darkness]

[I'm Sick Again.]

[Mother & Daughter]

[In the Night Market of Bangkok]

 

[maddoc]

"In the fraction of darkness" and "Mother and daughter" !! My favorites !! Good to see you posting again !!

Cheers,

Gabor

 

[deepwhite]

"In the fraction of darkness"

Thanks Gabor. I'm printing this shot to A4 tomorrow; one of my friend really likes it. I'll be printing it with the Epson R1900, a pretty good printer.

------

The last three shots of the APX400 roll:

[Inside the Inside]

[Bangkok; Park in the Night]

This "deep black" color is why I love the APX400 film.



["Friend, or Foe?" thought the cat.]

This is the most surreal cat I've ever seen.

 

[maddoc]

That's a scary surreal cat !!

One from me with the new Ektar100 (waiting for development took 10 days .... :bang

 

[maddoc]

(M4-P / Ektar100)