ND grad for ISO compensation

[lemos]

Hi gang,

I am thinking of buying a 3 stop B+W ND filter for 400/800/1600 on either f2.0 or f1.4. Thoughts? Top speed is 2000, so from my math, I should be able to use those high isos on much more scenarios.


Thoughts? 😕

 

[lemos]

did I post this on the wrong forum?

 

[sevo]

Hard to tell - I at least haven't been able to figure out what you actually want to ask.

 

[sahe69]

I think your are after an ND filter, not an ND grad (graduated), which is normally used in landscape photography to balance the contrast between the sky and ground areas.

I'd go for a 3 stop filter, but ultimately this would depend at which E.I. you normally expose, as well as the max aperture of your lens.

 

[elmer3.5]

ND 6 stops

ND 6 stops

Hi, i got a W+B 6 stops filter, ND64 or 1.8, it´s great as i can play with oof a lot with either epson rd1 or 400 asa film borad day light!

Check b+w in bhphoto this brand has a wide range of products.

I´m plnning to get a graduated to deal with contrast in landscapes or dinamic range in digital.

Bye!

E

 

[yanidel]

I just went through that question myself. On the M9, on a sunny day, 1/4000th will be sufficient for 95% of shots with aperture at f2.8 and ISO80. Therefore I went for a ND filter that give me two stops correction. I should therefore be able to use my 1.2 and 1.4 lenses wide open without issues.
In your case, with ISO400 and 1/2000, I guess a five stops correction is needed if you shoot a lot in bright light wide-open. Otherwise, 3 stops is enough, let's not forget the reverse effect in low light.

 

[lemos]

Ps.: I obviously meant ND, not ND grad.

 

[lemos]

ok, let's see.

if we have Sunny 16, we'd have:

f/16, ISO100, 1/125 shutter. Let's consider this EV0 (should be 15, but I think it is enough for this exercise)

if we change f/16 to f/2, we'd have:

f/2, ISO100, 1/125 shutter, which would yeld: EV6

if we then change the shutter speed to let's say: 1/1000 (2000 is tops, but let's keep it below):

f/2, ISO100, 1/1000 shutter, which would yeld: EV3

now let's be gentle, and bump the ISO to 400:

f/2, ISO400, 1/1000 shutter, which would yeld: EV6


this would mean I'd need a 6 stop ND filter, correct?

 

[sahe69]

You're probably right - I wasn't thinking this through well enough earlier.

 

[Chris101]

I have a 3 stop filter incase I have 3200 speed film still in the camera when the sun comes up. As I usually shoot 400 speed film during the day this works perfectly. If you like a wider aperture, you might want to go with a darker filter.

 

[MartinP]

Whenever I've tried wide-open effects in good light I have just used an orange or red filter (darkens shadows too much maybe), a dark green filter (not great when there are people about) sometimes in combination with a polariser. The polariser could also be used on it's own for colour I suppose, losing a couple of stops. What I mean is, do you really want a filter only for this purpose, or might it be convenient to use a combination of what you might already have ?

Bright, strong sunshine, say EV18 with 800asa, would suggest f11 @ 1/2000 so you'd be looking for losing six stops to keep a f1,4 lens wide open. In that sort of scenario I suppose a specialised filter would actually be useful, yikes !!

You must like high speed film a lot !
😉

 

[lemos]

it's not liking high speed, it's having the ability to use the same film both in a poorly lit room, or during a shiny day using f2/f1.4 at decent, not shaking speeds.

I'm now trying to decide if I'll go for a 6 stopper 😛

 

[underground]

I see what you want to do and it makes perfect sense.

You want to use F1.4 on a sunny day and your camera's fastest shutter
is 1/1000 @ISO 400.

I think the 6 ND will do you great.

I shoot only slow film ISO 50 so I am able to use f:2 @ !/1000
some of the time.

 

[ampguy]

For 1.4 in the daylight, I get by with a 2x (Japan labeling of ND4) filter with cameras that top out at 1/1000 or 1/2000. With the M8 (original) 1/8000, usually not needed.

So yes, a 4 to 6 stop ND filter should help you at at F2, with your 1/2000 limit.

 

[ReneSpudvilas]

Hmm, I will need to invest in a ND8, then.
That will allow me to shoot at 1.2 in overcast daylight at ISO100, I suspect...

ISO 100, F1.2, ND8, 1/1000sec..... that would be a half stop on the underexposed side....

I am very interested in wide aperture in daylight, something I do with DSLR all the time...

Thanks for starting this thread.

 

[bobkatz]

Hmm, I will need to invest in a ND8, then.
That will allow me to shoot at 1.2 in overcast daylight at ISO100, I suspect...

ISO 100, F1.2, ND8, 1/1000sec..... that would be a half stop on the underexposed side....

I am very interested in wide aperture in daylight, something I do with DSLR all the time...

Thanks for starting this thread.

Yes...this works for me too....using the canon 1.2 wide open on sunny day with 1/1000 max..ISO 100..still need ND ten stop...🙂

Bob.

 

[ReneSpudvilas]

Are they available? Or do you need to stack ND8 and ND2 or something like that? I guess if you stack a couple, vignetting will start to come into play..... 🙁

 

[ReneSpudvilas]

I just found a Canon ND8 L today, for $25, deadstock. They had a nikon one too, and I had to make the 'big decision', ha ha..canon or nikon...

Anyway, I could not tell the difference....

I am looking forward to trying it out tomorrow before work, with the nokton 1.2, and Velvia 50.

 

[ianglean]

it's not liking high speed, it's having the ability to use the same film both in a poorly lit room, or during a shiny day using f2/f1.4 at decent, not shaking speeds.

I'm now trying to decide if I'll go for a 6 stopper 😛

Great idea. I try to keep my gear to 1 per format (RF, SLR, P&S, MF) and most of the time I only have one camera with me. I work from 3am till noon and the only time I have to shoot are evenings and noon time. This will definitely work great for me.

 

[ReneSpudvilas]

I have been shooting quite a bit of 50iso velvia at f1.2 in overcast Osaka, will have to post some shots when I get the films developed..