Let's get back to the original issue here: choice of tanks for someone starting out from square one.
While I agree that stainless steel tanks and reels can be very serviceable, they are also with limitations.
First of all, aquisition: I have seen too many users who sell off their damaged stainless steel reels so as to pass on their problems to someone else: do remember this: if you drop a stainless steel reel, the tiniest misalignment will render it useless, but a good plastics reel will keep working til it is physically destroyed.
Second, they are with some functional limitations too, such as the slowness of the ingress and egress of solutions, and unless you use the Jobo system, useless for rotary processing; the Kindermann rotary system is touch and go at best. Moreover, they are not modular in size.
I have use many different tanks over the decades and I have finally settled on the Jobo 1500 and 2500 systems. Being convertible and modular, I can add extension modules to make it as long as I like so as to take more reels, and by adding a magnetic coupler I can use them for rotary agitation by machine. By replacing the funnel in the cap with a cup, it becomes a print drum as well, and the standard spiral has a separator clip so as to take two rolls of shorter film per spiral, so it makes it very economical, no need to duplicate purchase.
And a point for Honu:
If you use inversion agitation, a tank should not be used to its full capacity. For instance, I develop a single reel in a two reel tank, with the reel held down with a clamp or another reel, and use just enough solution to cover the film. When I invert the tank, the reel is drained of the developer, the solution mixex completely to disperse the resultant bromide, and then as a homogenous whole, plonked back into the film. This ensures completely even development free from bromide streaks; sure I have a Jobo single-reel 35mm tank but I use it for rotary processing only, and of course as the base for the extension modules.