Leaving airspace in the tank does provide some reassurance of agitation by sound and feel, but may also result in frothing and air bubbles in the developer, as well as increased possibility of streaks near the sprocket holes caused by rapid movement of solution.Seele said:
There's no physical reason that lack of airspace in the tank locks the solution motionless and prevents agitation. It is a fluid, after all, and moves easily in relation to the tank and reels. We just don't hear it gurgling and splashing! It's a simple matter of inertia... you move the tank, the mass of fluid "wants" to remain where it is, therefore there is motion relative to the tank/reel; agitation.
By way of demonstration: What are these things called... a glass globe on a supporting base, inside is a winter alpine village scene... When you pick it up and twist it around, the "snowflakes" are stirred up as the fluid is agitated. See? No airspace needed!
kiev4a
Well-known
There is one other option that hasn't been addressed if you only plan to develop one roll at a time. The Agfa Leitz Leica Daylight Rondinax 35 tank. I have the Leica version. Leave the leader out when you rewind. You stick the cassette into a space in the tank, attach it to a leader from the tank's internal reel, then close it up and wind the film onto the tank reel, add developer and you are on your way -- sort of a reverse bulk loader.
I picked mine up a few years ago when I was just getting back into developing. Paid $25 for it on Ebay -- then saw a major camera store had one listed for $200!! Guess they are sort of a collector's item. It even has a built-in thermometer.
I picked mine up a few years ago when I was just getting back into developing. Paid $25 for it on Ebay -- then saw a major camera store had one listed for $200!! Guess they are sort of a collector's item. It even has a built-in thermometer.
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
A diversion - about darkroom timers...
I use my Palm Pilot. In fact, I have one as a "dedicated" darkroom gizmo - I use "FotoTimer" software for it (freeware!), and I hacked a switchbox for it, so now it also drives my enlarger exposures! Ideal e.g. for test strips, etc.
More info here: http://www.hrtranslations.com/photo/Palm-enlarger.html
I also keep my developing notes there, formulas, calculations, also a Palm version of "MAssive Dev Chart".... Very handy - and probably the only electronic gizmo that never ceases to amaze me, for which I constantly find new uses, and which has never let me down. BTW, I bought that one used on fleabay....
Denis
I use my Palm Pilot. In fact, I have one as a "dedicated" darkroom gizmo - I use "FotoTimer" software for it (freeware!), and I hacked a switchbox for it, so now it also drives my enlarger exposures! Ideal e.g. for test strips, etc.
More info here: http://www.hrtranslations.com/photo/Palm-enlarger.html
I also keep my developing notes there, formulas, calculations, also a Palm version of "MAssive Dev Chart".... Very handy - and probably the only electronic gizmo that never ceases to amaze me, for which I constantly find new uses, and which has never let me down. BTW, I bought that one used on fleabay....
Denis
That sounds pretty handy! Hadn't heard of that product before...kiev4a said:
einolu
Well-known
diafine, I have some questions which I might as well ask here:
since I will probably be using afga apx100, does that mean I should meter as if it were rated at 200 iso? Also, the instructions dont mention a fixer, when should I apply it?
since I will probably be using afga apx100, does that mean I should meter as if it were rated at 200 iso? Also, the instructions dont mention a fixer, when should I apply it?
Mike Richards
Well-known
Some more practical issues:
- If you get into developing films such as Kodak HIE, which is rather thick, or Maco 820c, which has a sticky anti-halation backing, it's almost impossible to load them from outside to in on plastic reels because they stick part way into the reel. Inside to out with steel reels works fine.
- Kodak Technical Pan needs to be developed in Technidol, which requires that the reel be dropped gently into a tank already filled, and then agitated vigorously and vertically without inversion. This is difficult to do in a 4 reel tank which doesn't fit well in the changing bag. The single or double tank is much more convenient, although plastic and stainless both work.
- The secret of loading a stainless tank is to guide the film very gently by the edges as you rotate the reel. Squeezing the film edges together will almost always get you a bad load.
- One-shot developers discarded after use ensures that you have the right chemical strength for each film. I don't like to keep track of re-usable developers. Diafine is probably an exception to this, and I haven't tried it.
- Bookmark this one http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
- Whoever discovered the bottle opener to open 35mm cans deserves a medal.
- If you get into developing films such as Kodak HIE, which is rather thick, or Maco 820c, which has a sticky anti-halation backing, it's almost impossible to load them from outside to in on plastic reels because they stick part way into the reel. Inside to out with steel reels works fine.
- Kodak Technical Pan needs to be developed in Technidol, which requires that the reel be dropped gently into a tank already filled, and then agitated vigorously and vertically without inversion. This is difficult to do in a 4 reel tank which doesn't fit well in the changing bag. The single or double tank is much more convenient, although plastic and stainless both work.
- The secret of loading a stainless tank is to guide the film very gently by the edges as you rotate the reel. Squeezing the film edges together will almost always get you a bad load.
- One-shot developers discarded after use ensures that you have the right chemical strength for each film. I don't like to keep track of re-usable developers. Diafine is probably an exception to this, and I haven't tried it.
- Bookmark this one http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
- Whoever discovered the bottle opener to open 35mm cans deserves a medal.
einolu said:diafine, I have some questions which I might as well ask here:
since I will probably be using afga apx100, does that mean I should meter as if it were rated at 200 iso? Also, the instructions dont mention a fixer, when should I apply it?
Yes, per the Diafine box, they recommend shooting this film at 200.
and step five of the directions say to
"Fix, wash and dry in the usual manner."
I normally fix for at least 5 minutes. I aggitate for the first 30 seconds and then for 10 seconds every minute from there. The recommendation on most fixer directions that I have seen indicate to fix for at least 4 minutes. I don't think there is a too much (within reason) with fixer just a too little.
kiev4a
Well-known
Doug said:
They seem to be made out of Bakelite -- that stuff they used before plastic. They actually are a pretty interesting piece of engineering. It's important, when you hook the reel clip onto the film leader, to make sure it is square with the film end. Otherwise the film may go onto the reel crooked. There is a knob on the side that you turn to agitate the film (the reel is vertical and you can't invert the tank). You don't want to be too aggressive agitating or you can get streaks. I keep mine pretty much as a collector's piece but it does work.
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Roman
Guest
I like AP tanks best - they use the same reel size as Paterson (are interchangeable), but have a far better design (broad ledges at the entrance point) - the easiest to load reels EVER! Be sure to get some extra reels, though - plastic reels can only be loaded when they are 100% dry (use a hair dryer if you aren't sure).
I have AP tanks in 1 & 2 reel sizws, and Paterson tanks in 2 & 4 reel sizes; I barely use the large one, though - one reason: you WILL mess up something with your developing once in a while (esp. at the early stages, but it also happens to old-timers...) - better to have only one or two rolls of film ruined rather tha 4...
Roman
I have AP tanks in 1 & 2 reel sizws, and Paterson tanks in 2 & 4 reel sizes; I barely use the large one, though - one reason: you WILL mess up something with your developing once in a while (esp. at the early stages, but it also happens to old-timers...) - better to have only one or two rolls of film ruined rather tha 4...
Roman
Honu-Hugger
Well-known
Thank you for posting the diagram, Wayne. I was going to ask for a "Tank and Coffee" shot -- this is an intriguing piece of gear.kiev4a said:
kiev4a
Well-known
Honu-Hugger said:
The drawing is of the 120 model. The 35mm version is much more compact.
BTW: I'm just over the mountain from you -- near Boise
Clever idea... Thanks for the illustration!
photodog
Well-known
Advice on Stainless Steel Tanks
Advice on Stainless Steel Tanks
If you go the stainless steel tank route I advise that you buy the more expensive Hewes 35mm reels made in the UK. They are heavier gauge and less likely to be bent if dropped. There is nothing worst than being in the dark and trying to load film on a bent reel.
Also consider getting two thermometers as sometimes they are not accurate. Underdeveloped or overdeveloped film is not good.
Good luck!
Advice on Stainless Steel Tanks
If you go the stainless steel tank route I advise that you buy the more expensive Hewes 35mm reels made in the UK. They are heavier gauge and less likely to be bent if dropped. There is nothing worst than being in the dark and trying to load film on a bent reel.
Also consider getting two thermometers as sometimes they are not accurate. Underdeveloped or overdeveloped film is not good.
Good luck!