Need advice on starter kit

[Jamie123]

Today I decided that it is time for me to develop my own b&w film. I'm looking to develop 35mm and 120 film negatives to scan them afterwards on an epson 4990 scanner. I down want to do any wet printing.

After a quick search on the web I now know more or less what I need but I would like some advice on what products are the best/easiest for a beginner.
I'm going to try some of the local camera shops here (Zurich, Switzerland) but if they don't sell what I need I'll probably order from B&H so it would be nice to know if they sell everything I need.


I realize that I'm probably not the first one to ask this question but if someone maybe could take a few minutes to reply with an answer or maybe a link to some thread this already has been answered in I'd be immensly thankful.

 

[Max Power]

Hey Jamie,
I think that you are correct in your statment that it will depend upon what you can find locally as far as equipment and chemistry is concerned, but a really good starting document can be found on the Ilford website. It's a *.pdf file called "Developing your first B&W Film" or something along those lines and takes you through step by step.
As for chemistry, you will need a developer, stop and fix. I don't know what you will find locally, but my personal preference for a basic developer with my faster films is DD-X. For slow film I like Rodinal 1+25. I use Ilford Stop and Rapid Fix.
You'll need a developing tank, a reel, thermometer, graduated cylinders. Personally, I would recommend Paterson tanks and reels for beginners working with 35mm. I like stainless steel, but they are harder to load and are quite expensive.

ID-11 is also a good, inexpensive, basic developer which is suitable for both slower and faster films. I used it exclusively with Delta 100 and 400 when I first started, before moving to Rodinal and DD-X.

Again, if you haven't read it, I recommend the Ilford document...Ilford also has tons of others on its site.

Hope that this helps,

Kent

 

[Max Power]

Found the new links here:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/default.asp

Kent

 

[Jamie123]

thanks a lot for the quick reply!

I'm checking out the link right now! One question: Will I need different tanks for 35mm and 120 film or can I use different reels with the same tank?

 

[Xmas]

Jamie

If you buy a plastic universal tank it will do 35mm, 127, 120 or 220, the inner reel telescopes.

Some people have trouble loading the plastic reels ans use stainless steel...

Noel

 

[Jamie123]

thanks Noel! I'm going to check what's available near me later today.

 

[Jamie123]

Ok so I just came back from the only store I've found that even sold darkroom equipment (somehow every single photo store in the city now has added "digital" to the name...go figure!).
This is what I now have:

- Jobo UniTank 1520 (the smallest one that takes 35mm and 120 film - has a plastic reel. The only one's they're selling.)
- Paterson graduate
- A thermometer
- Film clips
- Ilfosol S developer
- Ilfostop stop bath
- Ilford rapid fixer
- Ilford Ilfotol wetting agent

Is Ilfosol a good developer to start? The guy at the store said so and since it's such a small bottle I thought I could give it a try).
Also, unfortunately they don't sell any changing bags. I think I'll have to improvise for now. Any suggestions?

 

[Twigs]

I've just developed my first 135 roll an hour ago using a similar set up.

The results look fine but I don't have a scanner (still waiting for a good deal to show up on evilbay) so I'll let the lab scan it tomorrow.

film: HP5+ at ISO 400

dev: ilfosol S 1+9 for 7 minutes
stop bath: three rinses with tap water
fixer: ilford rapid fixer 1+4 for 5 minutes (it says 2-5, so I went with 5 😀 )
wash: tap water (using the ilford method)
final rinse: 2 drops (more like a splash) of kodak photo-flow in tap water

The process was actually easier done than said. The hardest part to me was loading the film onto the stainless steel reel.

I had a blast doing it, I hope you'll enjoy it too. Good luck!

Here's a "teaser" pic to motivate you further 😀

 

[Jamie123]

Thanks for the photo! Now I REALLY need to do this tonight 🙂

I'll also be developing HP5- at 400iso. I'm still thinking about what I could use instead of a real changing bag. Maybe a couple of black garbage bags or something like that.

 

[Xmas]

Jamie

Dont recommend crawling into a plastic bag.

Darken a bed room as much as you can and make apple pie bed if you use blankets and crawl into it head first. If you use a douvet you could cut up bin liners and cover douvet. wait until it is dark/night outside

Or use under stair cupboard (or similar room without windows), pin/tack/velcro blanket to inside of door.

If you wait in dark room for 15 minutes you will see the leaks.

I found I got drying marks until I used a pukka film squeegee.

Good luck

Noel

 

[Jamie123]

Noel

I just finished loading the film into the tank. It was...well...an experience.
I didn't crawl into the plastic bag but I made a changing bag using black garbage bags. I first taped patches of aluminum foil around a large bag until all of it was covered with no light leaks. Then I put this bag into another bag and made a kind of sleeve with another piece of bag to cover the opening. Not bad in theory.
Now actually loading the film using this thing was a whole other story. I had problems finding the place on the reel where the film goes in so I had guite some time until I finally managed loading the reel. Then something went wrong and I had to start all over again. The problem was that the plastic bag got very hot very quickly and I started sweating which didn't really help.

I'm also pretty sure there are lot's of fingerprints on the film. I didn't buy cotton gloves because they were about 5$ a pair which is rather expensive IMO. If I order from B&H I can get 12 for the same price.
I will buy a squeegee next time I'm at the store. Completely forgot to ask about that today.

I didn't develop the film yet but I will in about half an hour. I hope I can post the results tonight.

thanks

 

[Xmas]

Jamie

The patterson plastic reels I use have projections that make it easy to hand the reel and find where you should start, in the dark.

I find that useing more wetting agent than recommended helps, and you can try 1st and 2nd finger as a 'protein' squeegee - it wont work but you tried.

You may be able to get a 2nd reel to fit in the tank to do two (35mm) at once, or have a 2nd dry reel as they are real difficult to load if even slightly wet.

You can get tanks 2nd hand ok if you check for cracks, the big tanks allow nx films at once which is convenient if you are impatient.

Noel

 

[Jamie123]

Noel

The tank I bought fits two 35mm reels so I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy a second one. The one I have came with the Jobo tank but at the store they also hat a Patterson tank (was too small for 120 film) so they may also have the Patterson reels.For now I carved (very lightly) a few lines into the side of the plastic reel so I can feel where I need to start.
I might use a microfiber cloth as an alternative to the squeegee until I get one.

 

[Flyfisher Tom]

Jamie:

Darkroom: go into a closet or bath, seal the bottom with a towel, instant darkroom.

Tanks : if you ever decide to try stainless steel tanks, Kindermann is the brand to go with. SS tanks allow you to reload while wet, and lasts forever.

Squeegee: wash thumb and forefinger in dishwashing soap for nature's squeegee

Developer: D76 (kodak, powder), XTOL (kodak, powder) or HC-110 (kodak, liquid), or Microphen (if you are pushing) ... all work great

Fixer: any brand will do, though the the Rapid version

Stop: I just use water rinse

Rinse: Kodak Photoflow, gets the water to slide off the film, and leaves no spots

Film: Tri-x is the easiest with the greatest latitude, HP5 is another good one, NEOPAN 400 is my favorite (simply brilliant film), and if you really want to hone your timing skills, the TMAX 100/400 films.

Next thing you know, you'll be wanting to load your own film, but that's another subject 🙂

good luck

 

[Jamie123]

I've just finished developing my first film! It's still drying but from what I can see the results look...well...I'd say OK. I didn't pay very much attention to temperature so I'm curious to see how the scans will look. There also seem to be some black lines (like scratches) on the borders which is probably a result of the numerous attempts I had at loading the reel.

Tom:
Thanks for the advice! I will probably buy a squeegee if I stumble across one but for now I think my fingers or the microfiber cloth will do ok. As for the water instead of ilfostop; the guy at the store told me the same thing but for now I don't want to take any chances and I only bought a small bottle anyways so I might aswell use it.
For now I'll stick to the simple stuff but I'd definitely like to make a few experiments with pushing in the future.

I had to chuckle when I read "SS tanks" in your post. For a minute I thought to myself "what does WWII have to do with developing film 😉

 

[w3rk5]

I might use a microfiber cloth as an alternative to the squeegee until I get one.

The Kodak Photo-Flo stuff should takes care of water spots concerns. I've never had a water spot issue yet.

I don't think you will need a squeegee or microfiber cloth. It's up to you though. Many people use it without problems.

 

[andy_leitch]

I'm going to California (from the UK) next week and i'm thinking i might buy some developing gear when i'm out there just to lessen the cost. I was thinking of the following:

35mm Paterson tank with reel
Samigon Changing Bag
Paterson 600mm measuring cylinder
Paterson 100ml measuring cylinder
Delta 1l Storage Bottle
General Brand Rubber Film Squeegee
Kalt Plastic Film Strips
Delta White Darkroom Gloves (why not eh?)
General Brand Stainless Steel Dial Thermometer
Clear-File Archival Negative Pages (25 pack)

I'll buy the chemicals when i get back to the UK and i'll buy a batch of Delta 400 from 7dayshop.com

Can anyone think of anything i've missed here ?

Thanks

Andy Leitch

I forgot about the film retriever. one of those. What's best to get, a canister opener or a leader retriever or both?

on a slightly related note. will i have any problems putting these chemicals down the plug hole in my enamel plated bath or my porcelin (sp) sink? I should really know this because i'm a chemist but i haven't seen what chemicals i'm dealing with yet.

 

[oscroft]

Just a couple of thoughts to add to what has already been said...

Yes, the secret to loading plastic spirals is to have them absolutely dry - the slightest trace of moisture can make loading a nightmare. I always use a hair dryer on mine before use just to make sure (though don't get too hot a hair dryer too close to the spool - I melted one once). And I'd also suggest you sacrifice a cheap film and practise loading in daylight a few times - correlating what you see with what you feel will mean you know exactly what is happening when you do it for real in the dark.

And stop bath - I've never used it. Just a couple of quick washes with plain water and then in with the fixer.

 

[oscroft]

Clear-File Archival Negative Pages (25 pack)

I'll buy the chemicals when i get back to the UK and i'll buy a batch of Delta 400 from 7dayshop.com

7dayshop also has Clearfile neg pages pretty cheap too - I got some recently.

I forgot about the film retriever. one of those. What's best to get, a canister opener or a leader retriever or both?

I find an ordinary bottle opener does the trick just fine.