GenghisWayne
Left-brained
First time post...
I need some help/advice on choosing my first rangefinder. I think I'd like to get 35 and 75 lenses. Matching specs, this points me to an R2M. However, reading about EBL has me a little concerned with focusing a 75mm lens on the R2M. Since I'm new to RF cameras, I don't know how much this will matter.
Should I be looking at an R3M? But then I lose 35mm framing, right?
What's the better trade-off: R2M focusing 75mm or squeezing 35mm framing into the R3M viewfinder?
Is there a third option? (for similar budget)
Thanks in advance for any insight.
I need some help/advice on choosing my first rangefinder. I think I'd like to get 35 and 75 lenses. Matching specs, this points me to an R2M. However, reading about EBL has me a little concerned with focusing a 75mm lens on the R2M. Since I'm new to RF cameras, I don't know how much this will matter.
Should I be looking at an R3M? But then I lose 35mm framing, right?
What's the better trade-off: R2M focusing 75mm or squeezing 35mm framing into the R3M viewfinder?
Is there a third option? (for similar budget)
Thanks in advance for any insight.
BillBingham2
Registered User
Yo GW,
As long as you are doing CV lenses, the R2X (A or M) will be fine. A 35/75 kit is a great system and CV has some great options in the 35 range, not as many (ok, one, but it's very good) in the 75 range.
Yes, going to the R3 bodies you will loose the 35mm frame, but the 75 frame there rocks.
Some people use the R3 as a 75mm body because it has a 1:1 viewfinder. You can open both eyes when viewing because the viewfinder neither enlarges or shrinks what you are viewing. Handy but not a requirement.
The kit of an R2M, 35 & 75 is a great place to start. Do not get stuck on buying new and more and this and that (the RFF Gods are not looking kindly on me for saying this). Learn the camera, learn the lenses. Shoot, review and shot & review some more. Following that pattern will do more for you than purchasing a Leica camera or lens.
Not knowing the total of your budget and guessing is hard as there is a wide range of 35 CV glass out there I'm not sure what else to recommend. Give me some more info as to what you like or want to take pictures of. What you have now? The more I know the more I can give you something more than just a SWAG (Super Wild A55 Guess).
Welcome to one of the best places on the Web.
B2 (;->
As long as you are doing CV lenses, the R2X (A or M) will be fine. A 35/75 kit is a great system and CV has some great options in the 35 range, not as many (ok, one, but it's very good) in the 75 range.
Yes, going to the R3 bodies you will loose the 35mm frame, but the 75 frame there rocks.
Some people use the R3 as a 75mm body because it has a 1:1 viewfinder. You can open both eyes when viewing because the viewfinder neither enlarges or shrinks what you are viewing. Handy but not a requirement.
The kit of an R2M, 35 & 75 is a great place to start. Do not get stuck on buying new and more and this and that (the RFF Gods are not looking kindly on me for saying this). Learn the camera, learn the lenses. Shoot, review and shot & review some more. Following that pattern will do more for you than purchasing a Leica camera or lens.
Not knowing the total of your budget and guessing is hard as there is a wide range of 35 CV glass out there I'm not sure what else to recommend. Give me some more info as to what you like or want to take pictures of. What you have now? The more I know the more I can give you something more than just a SWAG (Super Wild A55 Guess).
Welcome to one of the best places on the Web.
B2 (;->
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Buy a 35mm lens. Don't even think about getting a second lens until you've shot fifty rolls of film. LEARN that lens. Get to the point where whatever you're looking at, even when you don't have a camera with you, your brain puts a bright frameline around your subject.
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Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The whole issue with the EBL is a bit over blown. Yes, if you do critical work at full aperture in low light - a longer baseline might help - particularly if you are working "fast" with subjects bouncing around.
I have found that if you are careful with the focus - it works well, even with a 90 on the R2 (even 90f2 Summicrons are fine).
The R3 is unsurpassed for use with the 75 - but as Bill says, the penality is no 35 frame lines. I use the R3 instead of M's for 75mm work (CV/Summicron etc) because of the freestanding frame. On the M6/MP there are mixed up with the 50 frames!!!!
One combination that works well with the R3's is the 40/75 set up. The 40f1.4 Nokton is a very good lens and the 5 mm difference is not that critical. This would give you a good low-light lens (the 40f1.4) and a compact short tele (75f2.5). Nice, compact kit and attached to a R3 - you have the best viewfinder this side of a Zeiss ZM - and way ahead of M-Leica's.
It would be a good starter kit - and unless you crave wider lenses later, possibly all you will need. OK, that wide-angle craving probably will set in at some time - but wait a while and get used to the camera and the lenses first. Spend more money on film than on extras - always the best teaching aid anyway.
I have found that if you are careful with the focus - it works well, even with a 90 on the R2 (even 90f2 Summicrons are fine).
The R3 is unsurpassed for use with the 75 - but as Bill says, the penality is no 35 frame lines. I use the R3 instead of M's for 75mm work (CV/Summicron etc) because of the freestanding frame. On the M6/MP there are mixed up with the 50 frames!!!!
One combination that works well with the R3's is the 40/75 set up. The 40f1.4 Nokton is a very good lens and the 5 mm difference is not that critical. This would give you a good low-light lens (the 40f1.4) and a compact short tele (75f2.5). Nice, compact kit and attached to a R3 - you have the best viewfinder this side of a Zeiss ZM - and way ahead of M-Leica's.
It would be a good starter kit - and unless you crave wider lenses later, possibly all you will need. OK, that wide-angle craving probably will set in at some time - but wait a while and get used to the camera and the lenses first. Spend more money on film than on extras - always the best teaching aid anyway.
I was going to say what Tom has said. So he is faster than I am, and I am sure he has said it better than I would have.
Bingley
Veteran
Much good advice here, young grasshopper. Take heed!
Sparrow
Veteran
what the others said, and yes the 75mm lines on the r3a are blessed by angels, but get the r2* for the 35's
one can’t see the RF base length from the back of the camera, so it's fine for non-nerds
one can’t see the RF base length from the back of the camera, so it's fine for non-nerds
GenghisWayne
Left-brained
Thank you very much for all the thoughtful replies. That helps a lot. I'll stew on that for a few days before making a decision.
ferider
Veteran
I agree with most of what was said above. Except one thing:
If you don't wear glasses, an R3*, 40 + 75 might be the better combo. The 40 is relatively cheap, almost comparable in price to the 35/2.5, you get more speed and the 1:1 finder. 40 or 35 matters little in practice.
Enjoy !
Roland.
If you don't wear glasses, an R3*, 40 + 75 might be the better combo. The 40 is relatively cheap, almost comparable in price to the 35/2.5, you get more speed and the 1:1 finder. 40 or 35 matters little in practice.
Enjoy !
Roland.
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