Need Help: Crown Graphic light leaks

[Pirate]

I thought I had this fixed, but I was mistaken. I really need some help sorting this out. The easy way would be to replace parts until there are no more light leaks, and I may very well do that, but input from you guys would be very valuable along the way.

I have found a couple pin holes over the years in the bellows and patched them with gaffers tape. I've tape sealed all around the bellows mounting at the rear. I've used high power lights (construction site lights) to search for more leaks, moving it every conceivable way, bellows in and out, and can not find any more leaks.

A friend saw my film and said he had the same problem and it was the film holders. They were old and started to leak through the felt of the dark slide passage. I checked a couple and sure enough there were some leaks. I just received four new holders. The first few shots were great, but now, I've got leaks again.

I can't figure out where they are coming from. The bellows is next on the list to change if I don't have any other options before that.

Here's the latest shot from yesterday showing the leaks on the sky:

 

[Moto-Uno]

I'd like to start by saying as I look for leaks ( God knows I've found a few ) I try sealing large areas off with black plastic electrical tape. I might try taping around the lens holder and then around the perimeter of film holders to the camera body.

 

[rjbuzzclick]

Also check the two felt strips that the film holder rests against when inserted in the camera. They run along the longs sides of the frame and can easily be seen underneath the ground glass.

 

[Frank Petronio]

Post a picture of the camera showing the film holder inserted. It may be that you simply aren't getting it seated into place correctly.

Otherwise if it isn't obvious, try to determine whether it is the holder or camera. That usually means shooting the holders in a different camera.... Holders have to be really lousy to leak, I've used many 60 year old ones with never a problem.

Remove the back that holds the spring holder by unscrewing the five or six screws holding it to the wooden body. Then you can see if the rear of the bellows is properly attached to the rear frame.

If you remove the back, close the lens, and stick your face into the back of the camera, you should be able to pass a high powered LED flashlight around the bellows in all directions to see if there are pinholes or gaps where it mounts to the standards. Be creative and test in every direction.

Frankly, if a rugged vinyl Graphic bellows has pin holes then there probably are more developing and it's a tosser. Given that you can replace the camera for what a replacement bellows costs, just buy a new body and sell the leftover parts to pay for it. Selling just the back alone usually fetches a good price, as does the folding metal hood, etc.

 

[Particular]

I would set up the camera in a blacked out room, leave the lens closed, and put a small led flash light inside the camera. Now insert the suspect film holder with the dark slide out. Let your eyes adjust to the darkness, and you might catch some faint light escaping somewhere. I have found small light leaks like this that weren't showing up by other inspection methods.

 

[Pirate]

Post a picture of the camera showing the film holder inserted. It may be that you simply aren't getting it seated into place correctly.

Otherwise if it isn't obvious, try to determine whether it is the holder or camera. That usually means shooting the holders in a different camera.... Holders have to be really lousy to leak, I've used many 60 year old ones with never a problem.

Remove the back that holds the spring holder by unscrewing the five or six screws holding it to the wooden body. Then you can see if the rear of the bellows is properly attached to the rear frame.

If you remove the back, close the lens, and stick your face into the back of the camera, you should be able to pass a high powered LED flashlight around the bellows in all directions to see if there are pinholes or gaps where it mounts to the standards. Be creative and test in every direction.

Yep, I've done all that except replacing the two felt strips. Guess I'll try that first.
I've found new bellows for $100 US so it's not bad, but it does not come with frames so I'd have to swap out the frames I have.

Thanks guys.

 

[Ronald M]

You can get similar marks from lazy agitation in film holders and since they are along the long edge ?

Developer pumps thru the holes at the bottom so developer does not replenish evenly. In,out, tip 45 deg, drain, in, out, tip other way, drain. Repeat above for 4 cycles, 8 dips, in first minute. Then 2 dips every minute. The first 8 are critical.

People gets all kinds of marks trying to be gentle in the film developer and all they do is make things worse. Gentle is the worst thing you can do.

 

[Frank Petronio]

You can get similar marks from lazy agitation in film holders and since they are along the long edge ?

Developer pumps thru the holes at the bottom so developer does not replenish evenly. In,out, tip 45 deg, drain, in, out, tip other way, drain. Repeat above for 4 cycles, 8 dips, in first minute. Then 2 dips every minute. The first 8 are critical.

People gets all kinds of marks trying to be gentle in the film developer and all they do is make things worse. Gentle is the worst thing you can do.

Good point, they do look like bad processing since it's odd to get leaks on the bottom edge in the center....

 

[Pirate]

Hmm, I don't think that's the case, only because I use a Mod 54 holder inside a Paterson 3-reel tank. The film is submerged the whole time, just like a roll of 35mm or 120 film would be. The agitation is with the stem in the center, twisting the film holder left and right, just like doing a reel job.

Still, I can try changing up my agitation scheme to see if there's any differences. Certainly can't hurt. Thanks.

 

[Gumby]

Processing was the first thought through my mind. Even with completely worn felt there is little chance of light leak unless the holder is noticably lifted when removing/inserting the dark slide. And that woiuld be quite noticable and extreme, not like what is depicted.

 

[Frank Petronio]

Yeah I agree that it looks like processing more than anything else. Lots of 120 film done in tanks suffers too....

 

[Pirate]

I used to have a problem processing my 120 and had to change my agitation scheme to correct it. I'll try this first. If I can get another day of sunshine, I'll shoot these same shots again with the same holder and see if they turn out different with a different scheme.

Thanks guys!

 

[Pirate]

Well, indoor shots are good but I still have not had a good enough day to get outside and shoot, but I am leaning more towards the developing that was the problem. I thoroughly checked out my Mod 54 / Paterson tank system and found that the center post which is supposed to spin the film holder inside the can was slipping, so, the film holder was not moving very much and therefor the agitation was next to nothing. It's a problem that's easily solved by simply rocking the can instead of using the twisty thing from now on.

Thanks for the discussion, it really helps to talk through things with people who know.