Need some details from Konica Auto S2 owners

[btgc]

In short words, I gave up on my first S2 which had broken parts in shutter and got another with description "Ne déclenche" (not working) which is earlier model with lower serial# and fancy metal sticker "New loading system".

Naphta-o-wash turned it running, after paper strip cleaning method it still releases (fingers crossed - how long).

Questions are:
Does speed ring moves a bit stiff (though not hard) or really smoothly as Ruben has described ?
And shutter button - is it like rather Lynx or Electro ?
My sample is rather like Electro, requiring little more efforts thus not delivering butter smoothness of Lynx series.

I'd be interested in overall experience with this two issues.


Some bits and bites: battery test buttons needs to be pressed really down to swing needle into orange zone. I read that someone had issue that test button throws needle above 1.8 and I had that feedback too, though after reading there are two circuits (working and test c-s) realized that just pressing switches off work circuit and pressing further engages test circuit. Voila, orange zone!

For now it seems that Lynx has more handy layout of control rings on barrel, because they stand each from other and stand a bit over barrel so easier to rotate. On S2 they are somehow closer and are on same level as barrel...but well, this is camera I just want to use! And my little secret - it's last FL RF I've bought!....at least, for this year. Really, I have enough.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

The ring on my Konica S2 was stiff moving to 1/500th. Part of this is charging the extra spring. But it did free up after squirting the Naptha slong the side of the ring and working it a bit.

The Shutter release is more like the Yashica. Long throw, more force. On the Konica, it operates the Trap Needle automation mechanism. The Lynx is manual only, and has one of the smoothest/Softest releases found on a Fixed-Lens RF.

 

[btgc]

Finally ended up dismantling speed setting ring for cleaning. On brass plate there were spot of corrosion which made a tension with plastic part in front. Cleaned up with vinegar, naphta and eraser pad. Now it moves much better than before though not as smooth as on Lynx but now I can live with it. I guess that it's also because turning speed ring causes rotating mask before light cell too - to maintain metering.

Soft release helps a lot on Auto S2, like on Electro 35.

Thanks Brian on opinion, seems that my S2 is in good shape, just needs gluing back RF mirror, cleaning RF glass and sure, replacing light seals.
Hope to get back with pics.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

I've replaced a beamsplitter on a Lynx, never had to do the Mirror. Report back how it comes out. The final thickness of the glue is important, and it being flat.

 

[btgc]

Before this I've glued back mirror in Lynx 5000 which seems to focus OK...maybe I just have got beginners luck. I've read about thickness of glue and were careful with this, so hope to do same on S2 too. Sure will share outcome.

"Fallen mirror" seems to be common issue with Auto S2, I've read many posts "received S2, no yellow patch, rattling sound from inside" 🙂
Compared to issues with first sample of S2 this seems just gentle refreshing breeze.

 

[Mr_Flibble]

The shutter on my Auto S2 got a naptha shower as well when I got it. It didn't jam anymore after some good exercise (I did have to fix the lightmeter sensor wiring after removing the front lens element to free the shutterblades)
The f/stop ring and shutterspeed ring are slightly stiff on mine but nothing that impairs use.
No fallen mirror on mine, luckily. 😉

Dang, I want to go out and shoot with mine now..

 

[btgc]

I've replaced a beamsplitter on a Lynx, never had to do the Mirror. Report back how it comes out. The final thickness of the glue is important, and it being flat.

Today put my hands on that baby 🙂 When buing "very nice camera with no rangefinder patch" just know that rattling inside, mirrow will be scrathed a little bit. Happily, I don't see impact on final image at all; though anything could happen while jumping there freely.

Gluing back mirror were piece of cake. I put very (no, really very) thin layer of glue on mirror and put it "on shelf", before that kept camera in 45 degree angle. Mirror sat exactly where it should be and I made very slight RF adjustments. With Lynx 5000 I didn't get so successful first match.

Hope to replace light seals in next days and put through roll to engage fully.

The shutter on my Auto S2 got a naptha shower as well when I got it. It didn't jam anymore after some good exercise

Seems that S2 unstick w/ naphtha better than Lynxes, hope my S2 like yours will not require another removal of front element, which isn't so straightforward as on Lynxes. Not hard, but not so nice.

 

[btgc]

So touched S2 again. This time, being unsatisfied with speed ring, put a very thin layer of moly lube on internal speed selection plate - there's a friction with brass plate. Also lubed, no, in fact just touched with earbud soaked in lube carved rim on back of black front tube where front of speed ring sits on - also small friction when rotating.

Now speed ring rotates muuuch smoother. Not as on Lynx, but times better than before. Love to S2 even more.