Needs a lesson on Summicron 50s

ashfaque

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First of all, I apologise if this sounds too basic and has already been addressed (most likely it is). I saw a few 50 Summicrons over the last few months, with the prices ranging from 700 Euro to ~1500 euros, the ones I'm referring here are all very good (according to the seller, from RFF, LUF, FM and GetDPI).

IIRC, I saw a few things on AntiqueCameras, but they are bit confusing to me. Can you please give me a basic idea about the variation of the quality (, if any) and anything else that I should be aware of? Thank you.

Ashfaque
 
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Ash, if I would go after a 50 f2 lens for Leica M, it would be the version with focus tab, without integrated lens hood.

It is said, to be optically identical to the landmark modern 50mm Summicron, but misses the hood and adds the (for me) very nice focus tab.

Some people don't like tabbed lenses - I would not go without tab on such a small lens with light focus action.
 
The best 50mm lenses I have ever used were Leica 50 Summicron collapsibles, 50 DR's, and even a very good 50 Summar that was very sharp. Every person has different tastes, and looking at web images on flickr can be confusing, so the only way to see which one you would like is to try one. They're all wonderful, but my first choice would be a DR.
 
Basically there are four types:

1) the first: the collapsible. Great design for its time, even today a great lens to use for its classic signature.
2) the second: DR or rigid I (same optics). First Mandler design, also Leitz' first computer-designed lens. Optimized for center resolution and low distortion.
3) the third: v3 or rigid II. Optimized for micro-contrast, like many lenses in that period. Not necessarily the sharpest, but beautiful color rendering and contrast.
4) the fourth and current. Comes in various mechanical incarnations, which are all the same optically. High performance general performer.

Quality is high for all for, you can pick according to how you want the lens to draw: classic signature, pick 1, high resolution/lower contrast (for B+W for example), pick 2, high micro-contrast/nice colors, pick 3, general performance (possibly lower center resolution than 2), pick 4.

For 1 and 2, the condition of the optics is key, and clean copies are not so easy to come by. Also, 1 and 2 flare easier, so a hood is important.

I used all four types. My personal favorite is the DR (2).

Roland.
 
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Hi
I have used the third version. Said to be less sharp. Id say hardly noticeable. Superb lens. Slightly less overall contrast than the newer one. Gives lovelly delicate colours and also classic black and white for portraits. Also has a very nice detacheable lens hood. Much better than the telescopic lens hood. It is also the least expensive of the summicrons used. The picture of HCB taken by Jane brown shows him with an m series and this lens! If there is a draw back the focus throw is longer than the others. Supposedly more acurate focusing. id say just irritating. I changed to the current version. (minus 6 bit coding unnecessary) oh happy day! Its flawless. I actually prefer it to the 50 lux for film usage.
You cant go wrong with any cron. Condition most important.
Richard
 
All 50 crons are SUPERB....
have had the collapsible & the DR
but what Floats my Boat is the 3rd version 1970 black beauty">
 
I suppose the above Portrait /Mother & Child could have been a Tad more in Focus
but I was Moving as I Caught IT !
 
Why I like my DR.

Why I like my DR.

It's a great photo, Helen. Sharpness is a bourgois concept :)

The photo below tells you about everything there is about 2) (DR and rigid I)

939228758_dU3d5-L.jpg
 
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Thanks everyone for helpful posts...I really appreicaite your kind help.

Simon: that was exactly my thought. I think the one I saw on LUF (and probably here) is special edition (collector's thingy), which I'm not interested. Your post confirmed my reasoning. Thanks for the shop link as well. I'll look over there later.

Dirk: re. that focus tab (where you put your finger to focus the object): I had no idea that some of Summincrons 50's doen't have it. Thanks, now I need to be careful. I know how beneficial that thing is when I used Summicron 28 for a few minutes. But I loved it.

Helen: they are wonderful pictures, especially the post#9 one. It reminds me of my cousin. Actually kid picture reminds me of him.

So it seem I get could not get wrong with most of them, particularly with the 3rd.

Cheers

Ash
 
Thanks everyone for helpful posts...I really appreicaite your kind help.

Simon: that was exactly my thought. I think the one I saw on LUF (and probably here) is special edition (collector's thingy), which I'm not interested. Your post confirmed my reasoning. Thanks for the shop link as well. I'll look over there later.

Dirk: re. that focus tab (where you put your finger to focus the object): I had no idea that some of Summincrons 50's doen't have it. Thanks, now I need to be careful. I know how beneficial that thing is when I used Summicron 28 for a few minutes. But I loved it.

Helen: they are wonderful pictures, especially the post#9 one. It reminds me of my cousin. Actually kid picture reminds me of him.

So it seem I get could not get wrong with most of them, particularly with the 3rd.

Cheers

Ash
Dear Ash
You are correct all versions are good but it depends what you want. Id still go for the current design in preference all things being considered. I did find the longer focus throw of the third version a bit slower to use. The only other thought is to see if the 50 'cron gets updated to aspherical. There have been rumours but its gone quiet. There is just one thing added to the later version lux and that is a locking telescopic lens hood. If the just did that to the cron it qould be worth having. The telescopic hood just moves.

One final thought, for similar money you may find a Zeiss 50 1.5 Sonar. Different but in its way pretty awesome.

Best wishes

Richard
 
I havel a mint rigid version Summicron, so it became my prime 50mm lens. I use the collapsible less often.
 
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