jibanes
Member
I will ask how much that runs, stay tuned!
Georgeboosh
Member
You could use a digital point & shoot camera if you're only using it to help decide which negs to print.
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
+1 This is the simplest way I could think of to do what was asked:
You'll need either a light box or you could tape a piece of white paper to a window and then carefully attach the negs to that, shoot a digital photo of the negative and invert the resulting image.
Going forward, scans and/or contact sheets at time of development are the easiest way to do this, I think.
Rob
EDIT: you don't have to do this one neg. at a time.
And, some photocopiers have the capability to invert the copy--is there a Staples (or similar store) near you? They may be able to do this.
R
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jibanes
Member
The idea of using a digital camera is VERY tempting, and cheap, and the results are probably sufficient to figure out which slide is wroth enlarging. To this extend, is there a good slide adapter for digital cameras?
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
I would think there is but I don't know what specifically.
What I was thinking of was to simply take macro digital shots of the negs and then just invert those in what ever photo editing program you use.
They won't be especially good quality but may be good enough to help you decide which to print.
The slide copier attachments I remember from way back were made to use on SLR cameras and while there probably were some I don't recall seeing any for 120 film, the ones I remember were all for 35mm.
I'd think you could get a basic flat-bed scanner for about the same $ as a slide copier attachment and then just scan the negs and invert. Again, not great quality but, hopefully, enough to decide about printing.
This won't help you with the film you've already had processed but going forward, you might think about using Precision Camera.
They are one of our sponsors here at RFF and have a link on the main page with an offer of free developing with their high end scans. C-41 and E-6 only though. They do offer the scans with silver BW but I think there is an extra charge for that. Plus return shipping.
I am a very happy customer!
Good luck,
Rob
What I was thinking of was to simply take macro digital shots of the negs and then just invert those in what ever photo editing program you use.
They won't be especially good quality but may be good enough to help you decide which to print.
The slide copier attachments I remember from way back were made to use on SLR cameras and while there probably were some I don't recall seeing any for 120 film, the ones I remember were all for 35mm.
I'd think you could get a basic flat-bed scanner for about the same $ as a slide copier attachment and then just scan the negs and invert. Again, not great quality but, hopefully, enough to decide about printing.
This won't help you with the film you've already had processed but going forward, you might think about using Precision Camera.
They are one of our sponsors here at RFF and have a link on the main page with an offer of free developing with their high end scans. C-41 and E-6 only though. They do offer the scans with silver BW but I think there is an extra charge for that. Plus return shipping.
I am a very happy customer!
Good luck,
Rob
jibanes
Member
I've "discovered" that the xerox copier at work can do enlargements and negative reversal copies, I can use transparency paper too, so I'm going to try this first, this is cheap and probably good enough for visual inspection.
tj01
Well-known
Made some diapositives a few days ago. This was Tri-X on Tri-X. I would suggest you get some Printfiles, and put both negatives together in the sleeve. This will keep them aligned, fresh film will have a natural curve and hard to keep down. Keep in mind that the original negative needs to be on top and shinny side facing the top, the diapositive will be emulsion side inside the sandwich. I have the luxury of an enlarger and darkroom, height of the enlarger head is usually at maximum around 1.3metre from the negative at the smallest aperture of F22. The exposure I used is around 1 second. There's also a piece of glass on over the negatives to hold it really flat. Glass doesn't need to be 100% clean and dust free as long as both negs are clean. Use black paper underneath your sandwich.
I would suggest you get the lowest wattage light bulb and hold it at the highest possible height if you are doing without an enlarger. Also do it at night as it needs to be completely dark.
I use my diapositives to make 8X10 enlarged negatives for alternative processes.
Good luck.
I would suggest you get the lowest wattage light bulb and hold it at the highest possible height if you are doing without an enlarger. Also do it at night as it needs to be completely dark.
I use my diapositives to make 8X10 enlarged negatives for alternative processes.
Good luck.
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Bill Kapinski
Established
Years ago a photographer I worked with would do this to make b+w positives for his portfolio. Back then we would mount dupes in mats to show to clients. If I remember correctly he would contact or project on to line negative film and then process it in dektol, probably 1:1 They were a little work but they were absolutely beautiful. The line film was slow and no grain. Normal developer for line film made a black or clear negative, but the dektol gave it gradations and great tonality. That's what I kind of remember, 20 years ago and my mind may be a going a little. 