Negatives are purple after developing

[Fotohuis]

Just leave the negatives in a sleeve in daylight for some time and the Pink color is going out.
The old 120 roll films from Foma have a Blue color but this is part of their A.H. layer which is not going out. In their new 120 roll films they are using Agfa Gevaert Clear Polyester layer instead and a seperate A.H. layer on the back side of the 120 roll film which will dissolve completely.

The Rollei (S) Synthetic films are using the same Polyester Clear layer.

From my personal used films the Acros 100 has a strong Pink color and also in the fixer which will dissappear after some time.

 

[Spicy]

thread is from '09, guys

 

[Godfrey]

thread is from '09, guys

LOL! Does that mean the topic isn't current ...? ;-)

 

[sevo]

thread is from '09, guys

The phenomenon has not changed. And it would indeed be wiser if we could more often revive ancient threads if we have a question on already discussed topics. Starting from zero each and every time leads to more redundancy...

 

[colyn]

thread is from '09, guys

True...but if you take a look at post 27 another member asked a question..

 

[sepiareverb]

thread is from '09, guys

I know, I was just getting around to replying.

 

[Rangefinderfreak]

First: Tri-X does not have the purple cast, T-Max has. Hypo clearing does not take the fix away, it just changes the halides to a form that is more water soluble.
Second: The film piece check for T max should be: Fixing time THREE times the clearing time.
Third: You can leave the fixed T max in the wash for more that half an hour, the Tmax emulsion is hardened and does not be affected by the extended wash.
Fourth: If you print your negatives on a multigrade paper, purple light ( from filter or film base) will make your image more contrasty. so avoid by all means the purple cast...

 

[marcr1230]

"Fourth: If you print your negatives on a multigrade paper, purple light ( from filter or film base) will make your image more contrasty. so avoid by all means the purple cast..."

This is a great thread - despite some meandering
I've had problems when I print with high contrast results using
Multigrade paper - now I'm thinking maybe it's the evil purple cast

I have gotten better at washing it lately and removing the dye, but haven't printed in a couple years. Now I have a new project...

 

[gb hill]

Arista Premium which is supposed to be Tri-X does have a purple tint after fixing. Just developed a roll day before yesterday. I' don't mine the cast, seems to scan well on my flatbed. BTW every roll of Tri-X I have developed has had a purple cast. I do notice that after drying the purple is barely noticable.

Thanks to what Chris said in several post back that 15 to 20 mins. of washing will rid of it. I may give that a try next roll.

 

[gb hill]

LOL! Does that mean the topic isn't current ...? ;-)

Exactally, never to late to learn something new🙂.

 

[gb hill]

I just held this negative (Arista Premium 400) up to the light & I can still see a purple cast. Developed in Ilford Perceptol 1+3 @ 11 mins.75 deg. I developed for too long but the results I got are ok.

 

[DNG]

This is interesting to me including the responses since I have been developing film since the late 50's and have never encountered purple negatives except for the B&W C-41 negatives..

This has to be a developing error which may include exhausted chemicals.

I Agree, as another old timer, I started developing B&W in the late 1960's. never had a problem with any film. Still don't...

• All my steps are 1 shot, (I no longer reuse any chemicals). and I use a 3m filtered Pre-wash, before developing and
• 3m filtered water stop wash after the developer. (12 changes of water)
• then a 6m Fix in Kodak Fix hardener for Tmax 400 and Tri-X, .
• I finish up with a 15-20m rinse (40-60 changes of filtered water),
• followed up with a 1m Photo-Flo..The base is Gray by this step,
• then to dry.

 

[Matus]

thread is from '09, guys

I know - it was me who revived it to see whether some more information became available on the topic.

 

[grapejohnson]

i'm quite glad this came back up -- i've been wondering this ever since i started developing, and as tri-x is my favorite film it's good to know. i get the cast, but it's always been there, i just figured it was the plastic base. when i started developing 120, though, i noticed (specifically with rodinal) after the pre-wash and developer everything is far more purple, and when the film dries i don't have a cast. so it must be an anti-halation layer since 120 has a paper back?

 

[Roger Hicks]

i'm quite glad this came back up -- i've been wondering this ever since i started developing, and as tri-x is my favorite film it's good to know. i get the cast, but it's always been there, i just figured it was the plastic base. when i started developing 120, though, i noticed (specifically with rodinal) after the pre-wash and developer everything is far more purple, and when the film dries i don't have a cast. so it must be an anti-halation layer since 120 has a paper back?

AND anti-halation. A paper backing on its own would not suffice.

Cheers,

R.

 

[grapejohnson]

AND anti-halation. A paper backing on its own would not suffice.

Cheers,

R.

could they be different due to this though? or is it just the sheer size of the negatives? i've done two rolls of 135 at the same time and not seen that much purple

 

[L39chap]

There's nothing wrong with fixing. If there was a problem, the negs may look milky.
The rinse process is the key and should be done at a slightly higher temperature, perhaps 25 degs C instead of the developing temperature of 20 degs C.
As a test, put a tail end of a processed film into warm water in a white cup. Agitate the negative and you see the water turn purple.
So......wash the film whilst still on the tank spool in warm ( not hot! ) water. I usually change the water two or three times. After that, rinse as normal and add the stain removal drops. Cold water does not lift the purple stuff off.

 

[semilog]

That's one of the reasons why I stopped using Tmax400, getting rid of the residual purple stain is difficult and scanning this slightly purple film isn't easy either. I got better results using XTOL with Tmax films, less purple residual. Rodinal in high dissolution (1:100) gives the clearest negatives, when draining the developer it has a dark purple color so must have removed the dye from the base ?

Over half the film I shoot is TMAX400. If you use the Ilford wash method it's easy to get the dye out, the wash is archival, and you minimize water waste.

After fixing, fill the spiral tank with water at the same temperature, ± 5° C (9° F), as the processing solutions and invert it five times. Drain the water away and refill. Invert the tank ten times. Once more drain the water away and refill. Finally, invert the tank twenty times and drain the water away.

I add a brief rinse in deionized water (tank half full with vigorous agitaion) followed by running the films thorough a wetting agent in deionized water (I like the Edwal stuff).

If you reallly want to get into the film-washing weeds, there's a LONG thread on the Ilford method at APUG.

 

[nikon_sam]

let me try again - "the purple stuff, whatever it is, is not meant to be in the final dried negative and can be removed by vigorous washing"

I will say this again...
The Tint will not go away even with freshly made Fixer...I find that after 5 minutes of rinsing with flowing water I'll allow the film to just sit in slightly warm water (80*) usually works for me...I let it sit for 20 minutes then pour out the pinkish colored water and refill...I'll do this until the water is clear when poured out...It works every time and I don't waste water by just letting it run...try it, it works...😀

 

[sevo]

could they be different due to this though? or is it just the sheer size of the negatives? i've done two rolls of 135 at the same time and not seen that much purple

It is unlikely that Kodak used fundamentally different emulsions (including different sensitizers) for each size of the same film type. However, Tri-X is not just one film type, but a very old film family, with quite different siblings over the course of time and with two major parallel strains of different popularity (and sometimes availability) in small and medium/large format. That 320 rating was not the only difference between TXP and (old or new, amateur or professional) TX - they are (or were) even more different than Tri-X and HP5. And the switch from old to new TX also meant a move from the old sensitizers to the new ones already infamous for their pink stain on T-Max films. And there have been even more changes to its formulations over the course of the past half century - and not all of them affected all sizes at the same time.

Where 135 has been consistently new TX for the past six years, Kodak (at least in Germany) had still been shipping old TX in 120 until the end of the decade (and I haven't ever seen a new TX 220). Besides, there also was TXP in 120/220 until last year - and that originally was "the" Tri-X in 120, while almost all 135 used was TX. So chances to still have (or buy) one of the older Tri-X versions with less staining sensitizers are much higher in 120.