Neopan Neophyte-- 1600

orenrcohen

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Just bought a few rolls of Neopan 1600 to try out.. Generally I shoot Tri-EX 400 at box speed and thought it would be fun to try some faster film for low light. Can I just shoot it at 1600? Seems that people seem to push or pull it.. Will I get decent results devloping with D76?

Thanks,

Oren
 
1600 is pushing it, and to me it turned out very contrasty and didn't have enough shadow detail at EI-1600. Tmax 3200 or Delta 3200 are both better at 1600 in my opinion (and I have used a lot of both) I recently decided to try it again at EI-640, which is said to be the film's true speed. I have to say I actually liked it then!

neopan-1600-1.jpg

EI-640 developed for 7 minutes in D-76 1+1 at 68 degrees.
 
It's speed is 640, and I use that for overcast (in camera reflected light metering) and 320 for sun with a short development (Rodinal 1+50). It's my favorite classic grain film when I want grain in a shot. Pushed, it gets very contrasty. It's a great film in my opinion if we talk about tonality. Enjoy it!

Cheers,

Juan
 
I've not shot it at 800, I use it because I 'need' the 1600 speed.

It doesn't seem all that contrasty too me, although I have seen shots where it is all a bit chalk and soot.

(EI1600, DD-X 1:4)



 
Oren, I forgot to mention. Don't use D-76 for Neopan1600 @ 1600. I had to do this once because there was nothing else (1:1) - ugh, mushy and without the greys you get with DD-X.

Also, XTOL is good if you can't get DD-X.
 
Oren, I forgot to mention. Don't use D-76 for Neopan1600 @ 1600. I had to do this once because there was nothing else (1:1) - ugh, mushy and without the greys you get with DD-X.

Also, XTOL is good if you can't get DD-X.

I used Tmax Developer for doing it at 1600. The grain was sharp but it was too contrasty for my taste.
 
It's speed is 640, and I use that for overcast (in camera reflected light metering) and 320 for sun with a short development (Rodinal 1+50). It's my favorite classic grain film when I want grain in a shot. Pushed, it gets very contrasty. It's a great film in my opinion if we talk about tonality. Enjoy it!

Cheers,

Juan

I now shoot it at 640, like Juan and semi-stand develop in Rodinal 1:100. I like the results.

809667370_QaY6e-X2.jpg


Earlier this year I had a shop develop it who use Clayton developer at box speed, works too, apparently:

620173787_V8fPQ-X2.jpg
 
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I almost always shoot it @ box speed w/the understanding that it's "true" speed is much slower. Like Delta 3200 & T-Max 3200, it is a film designed to be pushed & like all films that are pushed, it will get contrasty & you will lose shadow detail, but in most of the situations where I shoot NP 1600, I like a high-contrast look & shadow detail is frankly not a high priority.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/fujineopan1600/

I don't do my own development, but the pro labs I patronize have used T-Max, Ilfotech DDX, & X-tol. To my eye, X-tol provides the best results.
 
Yep, it can get contrasty (and it took a fair amount of darkroom work to get this much highlight detail in my print), but I'm usually pretty happy with it at 1600, in XTOL.

U26799I1249077536.SEQ.0.jpg


-Brian
 
I've had very good results with Ilford DD-X, but the dev times are very short. Easier to control with dilluted Xtol, but I like DD-X for NP1600 more. Good in Rodinal as well.

But I stopped using it after Fuji cancelled bulk rolls. This is from last roll, year after expiration, exposed at EI 1000 and developed in DD-X:

 
ISO 1250, and Rodinal 1:25 is a good combo. If I'm going to shoot at 800 I find HP5+ in Microphen or HC-110b better.

At box speed, the Sprint developer at their times are very good.
 
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