New Bessa R owner

[kennjg]

Hi everyone, I am a very new Bessa R owner with the 35/2.5 lens. I have taken about 4 rolls of film and I wanted to share some of my trials and tribulations. When it comes to photography I am very much a novice. I have read Bryan Petersens book on exposure, so I am a bit educated. My experience with the new camera has been mixed. And, it is probably me, not the camera. Outdoor scenic shots come out very clear and sharp. No disappointment at all. It is in low light situations that I have a hard time. At a recent theatre perfomance, actors were under a spot light and surrounded by black curtains etc. I got as close as I could and in every picture the actor looks like he is lit up like a light bulb. All I can think of is that the meter picked up all of the black curtain and wanted a lot of light, hence the actors were lit up.

In another situation, a ballroom dance competition, I had similar problems. It was indoors and the dancers are moving fairly fast. I had to shoot wide open. The pictures taken with 10 feet of a person came out clear and sharp but outside of that it was not good. And like the theatre, I could not get close enough to the subjects.

It seems to me that my camera and lens is great for scenics, and just about anything outdoors. Indoors, low light, moving subjects, this lense is not going to cut it. Any comments or feedback would be appreciated. All of the indoor pictures were taken with 400 speed, cheapy Walgreens film.

 

[popstar]

First, congratulations on the camera. I have a Bessa R too and enjoy it. It has been a good and faithful companion! 🙂

I think one of the more important points in your post is in your last paragraph. I didn't know if you were shooting B&W or color film until you alluded to Walgreens, leading me to think color. Are you also having the processing done at Walgreens/other 1-hour photo place? If so, the issue with indoor photos may be the processing and not the camera/lens combo. Many of the 1-hour photo places don't seem to do dark, indoor photos very well. In addition, some of the people processing the film aren't as well versed in photography as one may wish. In any case, I wouldn't necessarily blame the camera as I've used my Bessa R indoors many, many times without regret. Granted, without the 35mm lens either, but even so...

It could also be something simple like metering issue or such, but don't give up on the Bessa as an indoor camera. It is a capable tool; enjoy it!

 

[kennjg]

Yes, it is Walgreens color film. Made by Fuiji. And they did the developing. I live in CT and we do have Mystic Color Labs for mailorder developing. Any suggestions on what film to use indoors, low light situations? For many of these pictures, I was focused at infinity. So maybe, I just need to get alot closer to the subjects.

 

[BillBingham2]

I think you have a couple of things working somewhat against you. First, you are using a 35mm lens (great lens) with a subject area that is a small percentage of the total picture area. Take a look here for some information on the pattern that your meter responds to light by:

http://www.cameraquest.com/voigrf.htm

There are several different ways to solve the problem. First get a longer lens, perhaps the CV 75/2.5, a great little lens. This would bring the subject closer and make it a larger part of the frame. As more of the frame would be the area you care about, and you can meter is a different part of the frame you compose the picture so that’s one way. Another is to use a spot meter (expensive but handy some times), meter the spot you care about and use that exposure information to shot with. This is an expensive solution, but your goal is to think about what you want to have “correctly exposed” and meter there. You might try some of the lists of exposure guides and bracket (shot a bit over and a bit under), experience helps.

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

You might try a faster film to help freeze the action inside introduce, at least 800 ASA.

Most of the time, I find that spot lights gave me enough light to shoot without going too much faster, but then again, I have faster lenses.

Hope this helps.

B2 (;->

 

[kennjg]

Yes, the 75 lens is on my xmas list. I think though you are right about metering. I should move in alot closer and meter off the subject. Some better film and processing would be better too. Thanks. BTW, what are these framelines on the camera used for? Is that just to see what it would look like with different lenses??

 

[BillBingham2]

When you change lenses, they tell you where the edges are for your frame and that lens. You change them when you change lens or when you want to see what a particular lens would do for you.

I get Kodak film (I grew up in Rochester NY) and get my processing done at Costco. By me, they do a fine job (much better than Walgreens). I say hi, and thank you, treat them with respect and they always seem to watch out for my film. When they are backed-up and I say they can get to it tomorrow. Never had them mess up a role of film yet. Walgreens is three for six in the ruined rolls category. They run through too many different people for any quality (IMHO). That is also the Walgreens near me, yours might be different.

Look around for alternatives (Walmart, God, did I just say that?) that might be near for getting your film processed, printed and scanned. Stick with Kodak, Fuji or Ilford film for a while. There are other good ones out there, but just because some makes a film for someone means that the quality is the same as their name brand stuff.

Enjoy the R, she's a great camera that will server you well.

Welcome, keep asking question and keep shooting.

B2 (;->

 

[rbiemer]

In another situation, a ballroom dance competition, I had similar problems. It was indoors and the dancers are moving fairly fast. I had to shoot wide open.

One nice thing about rangefinder cameras is that you can see your subject while the photo is being taken. Which means it is much easier to "pan" the camera. Panning is to follow the action(in this case the moving dancers) while you are taking the photo. Once you've decided the focus and exposure settings, while looking through the viewfinder, move with the dancers and press the shutter release. You'll want to keep the subject in the same area in side the frame-lines while you follow. And try to move smoothly. Keep moving after the shutter closes. (It's similar to the follow through when shooting skeet or trap or birds with a shotgun) It takes a little practice but it's a technique worth learning. And you should be able to find a better explanation of it than I just gave you!
And, welcome aboard!
Rob

 

[kennjg]

Thank you for all the suggestions. I live in central Connecticut. We have all the typical drug stores (CVS, etc.), grocery stores, Walmart etc...we also have Ritz camera which does a good job. I will try different ones. And yes, panning is explained well in the Petersen book.

 

[kshapero]

For backlighting try overexposuring +2. I have a great relationship with my local Walgreens. they do a fine job for me. But I do have to "sneak" into Walmart for my Kodak UC400 film. Can't find it anywhere else. But to be honest, I can hardly tell the difference between it and the generic Walgreen's 400. I guess I am up against the WAL!